Jump to content

Keith S

Bulldog
  • Content Count

    343
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Keith S last won the day on June 15 2018

Keith S had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

115 Excellent

About Keith S

  • Rank
    BMT Veteran VIP

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/emack/albums

Profile Information

  • Location
    Florida

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    B
  • Year
    1962

Recent Profile Visitors

4,300 profile views
  1. Misc. B-Model Small parts Circuit breaker panel Turn signal switch Bendix Trailer brake bias control Engine thermostat Do-Ray 410 cab light shield Best offer, all or separate, plus shipping from Gainesville, FL 32605
  2. PTO taken off Mack TR771 5-speed transmission. Best offer plus shipping from Gainesville, FL 32605
  3. B-Model fresh air ducting. Dual chamber ducting from air cleaner to engine compartment - some damage, reasonably pliable Fresh air ducting - very stiff Air filter cowl bracket Best offer (all or separate) plus shipping from Gainesville, FL 32605
  4. B-Model dash panel & gauges. Ammeter Water Temp Fuel Air Pressure Dash Panel $25 each or $100 for everything, plus shipping from Gainesville, FL 32605
  5. B-model glove box - see photos Best offer over $30, plus shipping from Gainesville, FL 32605
  6. For the B-model emblem I'm thinking about $20 each. Price is based on: The biggest initial expense is the time required to create/duplicate the characters These parts are plastic - printed plastic. They're not delicate or fragile but need post-printing cleanup Detail and cleanup - me or you. It's easy but time consuming. Basic cleanup is at least 10 minutes Then painting More cleanup Final painting. Chrome plating is possible, but add another 0 to the price Once I have accumulated the B-Model characters (B, 1, 2, 3, 4...), the price will probably not differ As long as there is no change in the font See item 3 Price of model type depends on demand. The higher the demand, the lower the cost. Econdyne, Maxidyne, Thermodyne..., etc. I need a good photo Vertical, straight down shots are the best. I basically create a CAD model by tracing the imagine - not hard, but time consuming. The fewer shadows the better. Pits, cracks, rust, and broken pieces are not a big deal. So, that's the deal.
  7. More parts printed: Door latches Emblems Horn button If there's interest, I can custom print emblems The blue parts are plastic (PLA) and as-printed without any cleaning. I spent about 10 minutes cleaning the blue parts and then sprayed them with primer. Another 20 minutes detailing can make a big difference Plastic can be chrome plated, but it requires a lot of prep work as every flaw will show The Horn Button Still tweaking the pieces Three pieces Super-glued together Will need detailing to look smooth like the original I'm not sure the hardware for my horn button is correct - the button is too far above the steering wheel Door Latches Not sure how the plastic will hold up. It wouldn't pass today's requirements of: Double lock Door beam Roll-over test 500lb Gorilla tugging on the handle But, they're better than what's on my truck If there's interest, I could make a mold and cast them in brass or bronze (or alum or...)
  8. Did you form these wipes or is that how you ordered them? I looked at their site and didn't see these - do you have a part number?
  9. Electric conversion update: A/C Stuff - Firewall Heater - 4000 watt Radiator Grill - moveable louvers
  10. I'm going to be printing some horn buttons. Still fine tuning the prints. At this stage there will probably be four slices super-glued together.
  11. Go with the larger radius Unless anyone can find it in any service manual for any vehicle, DO NOT USE ANY LOCKTITE on ANY wheel bearing races or bearing surfaces. Because: There is heat transfer between the hub and the press-fit outer race. It's press-fit for several reasons It's not supposed to spin There is better heat transfer with metal-to-metal than any fluid between surfaces. You should not oil or lubricate the outer race before pressing (driving) it into the hub. The oil acts as a heat barrier. The bearing's inner race that slips over the spindle should spin - it is an additional bearing surface. Mack, Ford, Caterpillar,... etc. would not waste money precision grinding tens-of-thousands of spindles if it were better/cheaper/easier to press-fit the bearing onto the spindle. If the spindle is excessively worn ON THE BOTTOM (0.005 - 0.010"), that mean that the spindle is worn and should be repaired or replaced. Punching and chiseling dimples is not a repair... it's a hack-job when you're a thousand miles from nowhere. Locktite thread-lock and/or retaining compounds are not intended to fill gaps greater than 0.15mm... 0.006 inches.
×
×
  • Create New...