Vladislav

Don't worry much about that. If you get to snow you would compensate the shortage of feelings very soon Brrr...

My suppose it was done by a different way. If you move front hood attachments you've got the front axle line backwards relating to the wheel arch. Could be done since 1 inch isn't really notable but I myself never noted such offset. In fact moving the hood hinges or cab position is provided by modifying (or moving) mounting brackets. And when you start investigating their design it turns out Mack used different styles of them during the years. Front ones where the hood hinges fit were made as different shape castings on early and newer R's (I tell now about Eastern R600's ) And later RD's starting at least from 1989 got front spring front brackets looking the way the early R's had but I don't know they're similar or not (but suppose they are). Cab front mounts are (as long as I could see) the same on early and later R600's. But front spring rear brackets (the cab mounts are partly bolted onto them) changed their style at some point. So cab could seat different. Worth to take that bolt holes in the frame rail determine the cab bracket position so if they're drilled the same the cab should have constant position. But was the rail drill pattern changed between early and later R's or not is a matter I'm not familiar with. If of real interest the way is requesting Mack Museum for the frame drills layout. If I resolve to modify my frame design with different brackets (I honestly thought about such entertainment for a case of using taller RD600 frame rails for my basic chassis R688) I would bother the museum. But for modelbiulding seems enough to take basic sizes off a production brochure or someone's real truck. All in all there's plenty of points in a Mack chassis which look simple at the first moment but when you start figuring it turns out many sized and distances differ between the models and production years. In many cases that's not really much but require clearing if you want to provide a correct work.

Mack added 1 inch to the rear edge of R600 hood to accomodate the chassis mounted aftercooler. You can see the difference if look at a hood side behind the rear of fender. After 1982 there's a section of fiberglass prolonging the hood side rearwards to the cab cowl. And pre-82 (shorter hood) doesn't have it and ends right along the fender curve. Once i asked a question on here and got an answer of pre-82 hood length (total?) was 53-3/8" and after 82 it became 54-1/4"

Pretty nice! Looks like a perfect environment for off-road travels. Here we have it very popular also and plenty places to go. But usually you have a choice of swamp/clay or snow. Snow is preferrable in many cases since less dirty

Looks like he did. And even matched the color. Good job

Torqueing up the bolt or a nut at a flange or yoke of a diff means much if you assemble a pinion assembly which has deformable tube between the bearings to achieve a correct preload. The way is you tight the nut moving the outer bearing to the inner one. The tube between them gets pressed down what means shorter, the bearings closer to each other, the gap between then less and passing the zero becomes a preload. So some certain torque on the nut determines required preload. Mack CRD-93 carrier doesn't have deformable tube. It has a hard tube which length you choose assembling the pinion housing (when rebuild) and setting the preload. You use a shorter tube to increase preload (or grind the existing one) or add shims to make it less. In a case you use already assembled pinion housing or a complete carrier the torque of tightening the yoke bolt is not extremely important. In fact you should turn it tight enough to not get loose during its service but not overtight braking the bolt. For the best you can check the prescribed torque in a chat which is conteined in the carrier repair manual. Of what I remember CRD92/93 manual is not avalible online but you can find one for CRD-112/113 which is mostly similar.

Keith, thanks for the additional pictures. I just never payed attention to the style of R700 grill so never looked it up close very well. And worth to admitt they are not the most common Mack truck you can see everywhere.

Excellent explanation, thanks! I just never payed attention to a fact that Mack restyled R-700 at some time and that 2nd generation truck achieved the spoken grill. Indeed there were early R700s with shutters or a grill looked like. And they had their cab sitting at the same level as R600s were but the 2nd gen purchased higher cab position so turned out into the hood modification story accompanied by the grill.

that picture with big camels is amazing. The single axle F-model with a trailer and black plates was Netherlands registerd.

I'm almost with Keith. That's a standard grille for Eastern R700 with longer hood relating to R600. Sure it was used on F-models originally but fitted to R700 for some reason. If you look at the pic of red truck above you can see the hood has a rib, a kind of a pedestal over the grill opening where the grill attaches. Eastern R600 nor Western RS/RL600/700 never had anything like that. White R600 with red and black stripes has different grill which doesn't have big framing. In fact that one fits straight onto the intercooler and stays in place while the hood tilts. The spoken R700 grill goes down together with the hood when tilting.

A vendor could put Mack part# for Mack. It could even put Mack logo on, just being not allowed to sell such parts.

No Jim, you ain't right. Here is the other side

Just much less job and more show out.

Your attention to my interest is very appreciated. Thanks. I was thinking to fly to the big land for the truck event this august bit the deciese mixed up the kards. Might be good to me since I need to collect more resources for. On the other hand we all know it's not a good approach to move plans to the future.

Or even just don't see any notable difference between the before and after.

I'm afraid Mack Museum wouldn't help providing production info on Australian built unit. One thing I'm sure Superliner of model R721RS was never in production in North America.

My bet is for another truck

Thanks for the figures. It happened that I didn't find any of WS brochures to check out.

As for the gap I would measure it and add shims. Maybe a little bit thinner than the actual gap is. Also might worth observation and light sanding of the mating areas of the bar, its beds and the caps. Local edges and other surface imperfections could limit cap's sitting position.

A question of another field - are you going to keep the spindle ends of the trunnion bar as they are on the picture? I mean just blasted? Suppose they will ruine the bushings pretty soon. Removable bar allows to put it in a lathe and be machined. I did that but than had to fabricate new brass bushings to the size the bar turned out.

My Canadian R had a carpet on the floor and the inner side of the firewall was also carpeted. The vertical part was attached to the sheet metal by steel clipses.

Looks like a R-model type door part. So could go to R, RW, DM, U, F etc. A seldom damaged part but I had to swap a pair rebuilding my truck.

Looks really well-cared. BTW does anybody know the higth of Cruiseliner measuring over the cab's top?

Nice! Your black and white memory card does good job

Wow! Many thanks for sharing. Definitely a place I should find possibilities to show up and explore myself. Getting worldy is a nice deal, isn't it Tim?