Vladislav

Looks like a common later series R-model cab to me. What's wrong with the existing one? From the pics it looks like a couple of spray cans could do the fix.

Drool to see My only worry isn't the paint still soft to put attachments on? I prefere to wait at least a couple of weeks and better a couple of month (and a damn couple of years in many cases) besore to start bolting on. Difficult to resist playing the game and I try to find alternative tasks along the project.

I like the color of the floor Sure kidding. Congrats! Nothing cheers up that much as bright shine of freshly done paint

I suppose the parts off a B-model firetruck engine (707?) would work there.

I really like that green screamer with #38 on the doors. Wonder is that 3-71 or a whole lot of 4 in the engine room? B73 is really nice either. Thanks for taking time to share the pics.

Worth attention. 1970 - 25 years after WW2 ?

PAI supplys the most of gaskets for E6 2V and those are similar to END673 in many cases excepting the head gaskets which utilize steel fire rings. 673 water pump also crosses to many (or the most) later Mack pumps differing in possible locations of small fittings. I suppose the original END673 pump had graphite seal ring but later desings have modern rubber shaft seal. The latter is also avalible from PAI and other suppliers so you could find a used E6 water pump assembly and rebuild it using such seal and greasing the bearings. That's what I'm going to do with my R-model E6-350 pump.

Cool! Nice to see it's done.

The project is moving step by step. Unfortunately not really fast due to many other affairs which took attention. Currently all the soft skin parts are ready, 80% of the chassis parts are sandblasted/painted and ready to assemble, plenty of new parts bought, imported and are laying on shelves. Including brake chambers, airbags, different bushings, windshields, all the chrome trim including front bumper etc. Next big step is rebuilding the engine I already have the most new parts for either. After it's done the most extensive and "sleaky" job is expected - I will need to part out my running truck (yes, I have two SGT R's and one of them is still solid). The matter is I'm going to use a set of frame rails off it since found no other options. So plan is to prepaire as many parts off the donor truck as possible while the other is still running. Than part it out, work out the set of rails and start putting everything together while the iron is hot. No lees than a couple more years to tinker anyway.

Keep the flame alive Paul! And I think (and hope) it's impossible to get rid of youreslf.

I just tried my best to proof the reputation the site puts above a member's avatar

But really strange to see the spring. My truck has a wire which goes to the dash with a knob on. The same as the rack control setup. Hmm... That small "lee" at the left of the pic too looks like a clamp which was supposed to attach the wire sleeve in the past.

That's an emergency fuel shut-off valve. My WW2 Mack has it as stock equipement described in the factory manual and the parts book.

Nice to see! And being gloss black the cab already looks fine. A layer of a clear coat and a big save on the red paint?

Welcome to the forum! R688 with aluminium frame?

Definitely looks like a great time and a great show! Very glad for those guys who could visit or participate. And those who couldn't now can see it on the pictures. Thanks for taking the time and sharing so many of. Special thanks for W71 and 4WD MH.

If the truck is 55 or earlier it gives me idea on the chassis number location. In 53 it was stamped at the rear end of the chassis rail not at the front.

Yup, as said above. Could also be a timing gears issue, oil pump or any other part which is supposed to spin or move when you turn the crank shaft. And you won't be happy to get broken. Actually a END inline 6 is faster to get apart than figuring out on removing a part or another or just picturing the matter in mind. I mean inframe job, the heads and the pan.

I would sand up a little spot on the back side of the particular wheel with fine paper, mix what you have or going to apply and put a small drop on. Than when completely hard, after a few days or a week, I would try sanding the material off and notice how well it's got adhered to the surface. If Ok wash out the cracks with soapy water or acetone, dry with hot or compressed air and bite a bullet.

looks like the condition is good.

Very pleasant activity. And of a kind I really like. Made something like that with a Cruiseliner a few weeks back. With a difference I had the cranck spinned when was installing clutch before acting the starter. I got lucky with the starter after reconnecting jumper cables for a couple of hours. And even could start the engine (on the next day). But got an issue with the clutch not disengaging. Hope the greasing up you made would help. You typed "40km". Are you in Canada? Or anywhere else?

Acetone is not a good practice to add. It evaporates later and could "please" you up with such hairline cracks. Also I added acetone in the deep past into epoxy resin when made castings for modelbuilding. Wanted to minimize air bubbles decreasing surface film tension. And in 10 or so years later found out those castings became extremely brittle.

A while back I had luck purchasing a set of L-model hinges from Matt Pfahl at Bethlehem CT. Google Matt Pfahl restorations, he has web-site. A great guy and very helpful. P.S. L-model and B-model door hinges are almost different stories.

Sexy

Hope you're not going to kill it Sure kidding, congrats on the purchase. Vlad