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About smalls111184

  • Rank
    Truck Nut
  • Birthday 11/11/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North East Pa
  • Interests
    moving dirt

Previous Fields

  • Make
  • Model
    RW 613
  • Year

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  1. I reframed mine from the cab back last year. We got the rails from pg Adams, they however are not able to duplicate from the cab forward due to the complexity of the rail. I tried getting new ones from Mack, as I remember there was a good part number for them, but there was no response from Mack as to availability. So I eventually figured that meant no
  2. My parts guy could find the part and part # but no price or availability info (available or nla) he was going to look into it more, but i haven't heard back so I'm not too hopeful
  3. The one shop is Watson diesel in canton pa, yes they were only going to replace the rails from the cab back and the rails would be sourced from pg Adams in new england
  4. So the current truck I have has basically no rust on the cab, the doors have some surface rust spots smaller than a dime, the cab does leak through a light I believe, I've been going to change them. I put a reman steering box on two years ago, all new rear drums, reman injectors, new clutch flywheel rear main seal and a used take out transmission last year. So the rest of the truck is pretty sound, other than miscellaneous things that go bad like wires that break and I have to run new ones, the hood needs some love, the window regulators aren't the best, the box floor needs some love etc. trucking is not my primary business, I do residential excavating. I do haul a lot of my own material but I do also just have someone else haul it in if I need a lot, so yes a tri axle would be more efficient but I make more money running equipment so if it's not a deal breaker to sub out trucking now and then. I do however use it as a site truck a lot. If I were to upgrade it'd only be to a late 90's-early 2000 rd. I can't justify a granite even though I'd love to have one. I guess where I'm getting hung up is putting 10k or so into a truck I paid 17k for 7 years ago
  5. Hey guys, I need to pick your brain for a minute. My truck is a 88 rw 613 tandem dump and the frame is getting pretty thin so I'm at the point of either replacing the frame from the cab back or upgrading to a newer tri axle. I've gotten two rough quotes both in the ten thousand range to replace the rails. I love mack trucks and i feel a duty to preserve this one, but this is how i feed my family so I'm trying to think with my head and not my heart. so my question is what would you guys do? thanks darren
  6. the problem with trucks around here and north is the frame rails, I currently have a superliner with shaky rails, i don't want to head right back down that road
  7. lol, sorry, 16-17' long with lowerish sides (need to be able to load it with my skid steer) prefer a steel box but i would consider aluminum, on camel back, 300 or more motor, thats a sharp brockway, but it has the wrong dog on the hood for me, sorry
  8. looking for a decent tri axle dump under 30k i'm in north east pa and would like to find one around here or within a few hours south of here
  9. i just realized i posted this ad three times, sorry, lol my internet was being screwy and I really wanted someone on here to save me from buying that truck
  10. no connection, says he wants 900 or he's scraping it on friday https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566356636765804?surface=product_details
  11. no connection, says he wants 900 or he's scraping it on friday https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566356636765804?surface=product_details
  12. no connection, says he wants 900 or he's scraping it on friday https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566356636765804?surface=product_details
  13. I had a guy replace the injectors in my e6 4valve two weeks ago with reman injectors from d&w. He couldn't get # 2, 3, and 4 to seal back up to the lines, so I put all new lines on the motor between the injection pump and the head. While i was at it i took the plugs out of the head that hold the injectors down and tightend the injector lines into the head first thinking maybe it would help the lines mate up with the cup in the injectors. I still have #2 and #3 leaking back through the head and out around the injector line. I really can't tighten down the lines into the heads any more than i already have. Is there a trick to getting the nozzle of the injector line to mate up with the cup in the injector? or did I just get some bad injectors? thanks for your help, you guys have bailed me out before I'm hoping you can again darren
  14. no connection http://allentown.craigslist.org/hvo/5641564068.html
  15. sorry for the slow response, I called mack today and got my part # and called TRW with it, maybe the guy i dealt with was having a bad monday because my # was obsolete and i don't think he could hang up the phone fast enough so I didn't get to ask about an updated part. I then called Camerota truck parts in scranton, they had one in Connecticut and it will be in scranton tomorrow morning for me to pick up. thanks for you help guys when i kept hearing it's obsolete i was starting to wonder if i was better off selling the truck
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