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smalls111184

Puppy Poster
  • Content Count

    42
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6 Good

About smalls111184

  • Rank
    Truck Nut
  • Birthday 11/11/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North East Pa
  • Interests
    moving dirt

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    RW 613
  • Year
    1988

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  1. Ok thanks for the info, yeah I’m getting a complete carrier from Mack. This is my first experience having one of these fail. I definitely don’t want it to fail prematurely because of my ignorance.
  2. I lost the gears in my back carrier in my superliner. I got it pulled out and the new ordered, I need to pull the yoke. I’ve heard I need to mark the bolt and count the turns when I take it off so I can put it back on the same. I’ve also read to torque the bolt to a certain amount to set the preload. Which way is right?
  3. i finished painting my truck, went to put my new lights on and they were all working, I shut them off and when I turned them off i had lost my outside clearance lights. I have power to the breaker and the switch. If I jump across the switch there is no change. where does the wire go from the switch, does it go right up the winshield post and to the lights or is there another place I can check for power first?
  4. I don’t know what you call the female part the cab marker light screws thread into, to hold the lights onto the cab. They are like a round insert or button that that have a female thread in them, two per light. I had trouble getting the lights off because they were spinning. Are they supposed to spin or should I tack them to the cab?
  5. I reframed mine from the cab back last year. We got the rails from pg Adams, they however are not able to duplicate from the cab forward due to the complexity of the rail. I tried getting new ones from Mack, as I remember there was a good part number for them, but there was no response from Mack as to availability. So I eventually figured that meant no
  6. My parts guy could find the part and part # but no price or availability info (available or nla) he was going to look into it more, but i haven't heard back so I'm not too hopeful
  7. The one shop is Watson diesel in canton pa, yes they were only going to replace the rails from the cab back and the rails would be sourced from pg Adams in new england
  8. So the current truck I have has basically no rust on the cab, the doors have some surface rust spots smaller than a dime, the cab does leak through a light I believe, I've been going to change them. I put a reman steering box on two years ago, all new rear drums, reman injectors, new clutch flywheel rear main seal and a used take out transmission last year. So the rest of the truck is pretty sound, other than miscellaneous things that go bad like wires that break and I have to run new ones, the hood needs some love, the window regulators aren't the best, the box floor needs some love etc. trucking is not my primary business, I do residential excavating. I do haul a lot of my own material but I do also just have someone else haul it in if I need a lot, so yes a tri axle would be more efficient but I make more money running equipment so if it's not a deal breaker to sub out trucking now and then. I do however use it as a site truck a lot. If I were to upgrade it'd only be to a late 90's-early 2000 rd. I can't justify a granite even though I'd love to have one. I guess where I'm getting hung up is putting 10k or so into a truck I paid 17k for 7 years ago
  9. Hey guys, I need to pick your brain for a minute. My truck is a 88 rw 613 tandem dump and the frame is getting pretty thin so I'm at the point of either replacing the frame from the cab back or upgrading to a newer tri axle. I've gotten two rough quotes both in the ten thousand range to replace the rails. I love mack trucks and i feel a duty to preserve this one, but this is how i feed my family so I'm trying to think with my head and not my heart. so my question is what would you guys do? thanks darren
  10. the problem with trucks around here and north is the frame rails, I currently have a superliner with shaky rails, i don't want to head right back down that road
  11. lol, sorry, 16-17' long with lowerish sides (need to be able to load it with my skid steer) prefer a steel box but i would consider aluminum, on camel back, 300 or more motor, thats a sharp brockway, but it has the wrong dog on the hood for me, sorry
  12. looking for a decent tri axle dump under 30k i'm in north east pa and would like to find one around here or within a few hours south of here
  13. i just realized i posted this ad three times, sorry, lol my internet was being screwy and I really wanted someone on here to save me from buying that truck
  14. no connection, says he wants 900 or he's scraping it on friday https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566356636765804?surface=product_details
  15. no connection, says he wants 900 or he's scraping it on friday https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1566356636765804?surface=product_details
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