Vladislav

This was my way. A couple of chain winches forced the axle beam to compress the springs.

The gauges are mostly standart military gauges. Were used on Willis Jeep, Dodge WC etc. Check out Kaizerwillis.com (or so), that guy has the most of the gauges you need. Excepting the tacho which was not used in Willis but was in GMC, White halftruck and some other WW2 vehicles. Glasses are all flat glass, no trouble. Windscreen frames could be an issue but they're a L-model part. Original engine model is EY but in fact it's a common Thermodyne 707 gasser with modified oil pan to accomodate the front drive axle. Could also be easily swapped to END diesel off a B-model or so.

It could be a NM-3 of 1941 but could also be not. The dash panel in the cab looks like original military style with small gauges and big round box attached at the center which was an electric brakes control for a trailer. But the doors have vent windows what means they are after the war doors. Original ones had one piece glasses. Also factory NM closed cabs had a kind of air intake or deflector on the top of the roof near the windscreens and I don't see it on the truck. One more very distingueshed feature that stood early NM's (including NM-3) apart from later series were hood sides with louvres. But those parts are gone here so no clue. Actually the most correct way to determine the series of this (definitely NM-model) Mack is to compare the chassis number. It must be stamped on the LH frame rail behind the front wheel near the top edge of the rail. Must be in the range between NM8D 1196 and NM8D 1299. There's a very good and useful book written by Dutch person by the name of Bart Vanderveen which covers all history of Mack military production including WW2 models.It also conteins info on chassis ## of many particular truck models including all series of NM.

Yes if you also swap the brackets.

I have that sticker on the driver's side door post on my R's. DM had it on LH door. Interesting thing I found 4 different designs of it and all had almost similar part# printed on.

Yup. We discussed that just a few weeks back.

Can't figure what happened to the top edge of the hood sides. Never saw that line with a corner in the middle. A couple of handle pics. Sorry they aren't a perfect stuff but seem usable.

A difficult to pass by object.

An original tandem A-model is an interesting unit. And fixing it up with factory flathead gasser would make it really rare. But I'm with you on more special appearance of a H in relation to.

Ok, got it. Just thought the prime mover was yours. And the small one also by the matching colors.

Wow! Didn't know you had that old A-car in the middle. Nice collection and thank you for the tour

That trip I covered nearly 40 kilometers of that dirt road. It took me one and a half hour plus a 10 minutes relaxing stop. Rears were inflated to 4 bar/59psi and the truck was really shaky. Fronts were 6bar/88psi. Having that pressure I noted rear tyre's shoulder areas didn't touch pavement when you're on a highway keeping dust on. After home I deflated rears to the pointed above 2.5 bar/37 psi and felt much better with tyres making contact by full width. Was going to drop off more down to 2 bar/ 30 psi but just didn't do that. Cars drive with 2 bars in tyres but car's rim has humps for better sidewall lock and truck whells don't.

Almost the same with me. No TV antenna/cable and news only from the net being patiently readed to filter off BS and hidden advertizement.

Any fenders?

Good question. I'm in the line to hear the answer.

They look really nice on period correct trucks.

What was the last year of production of Valueliners in Australia? And btw were there NZ made Valueliners?

Ha-ha-ha I posted this below pic a few years ago when asked a question on the same matter. Dropped the pressure down to 2,5 bar in the rears (don't remember how many psi) and got much happier. But the wheels were 11R24.5 tubeless.

You can use hub piloted wheels on old studs if machine the holes. Otherwise (and the correct way) is to install newre style hubs for newer hub piloted wheels. On the pic of the rear hub you can see wheel nuts for the old style wheels. But seems not easy to find such ones in the design of the front ones on the truck. So I expected some mod.

So far it seemed to me like not all the hardware used in MH frame was metric. Wonder which style of threads was used to attach Camelback stand or Neway brackets if airride was used. Neway was a vendor so the brackets could be pre-drilled SAE. 3/4 is equal to 19 mm but you have 18 mm or 20 mm of metric hardware.

Interesting story and pics. BTW do Australian trucks have 17 digit VIN numbers or shorter ones? Or 17 digits starting from 1979? And did Macks have VIN stamping on the RH frame rail (or LH?) or neither of?

No, these are for Estern trucks. Would fit R, DM, late RW and MH. Ealy Superdog, Cruiseliner and RS had wider tops and different bottoms either. You can't step on Western tops as was mentioned on here. Eastern ones set alog all the front and rear line so don't flip when you put your weight near the side.

Wow! Cool! I haven't seen it.

There was discussion about this truck on here about a year or two back. As I remember the cowl was modified to make the total length of engine compartment larger to accomodate V12.

looks like inverted Camelback rears to me.