Vladislav

O-o!

Mike, what is the kind of the "bolting on" of aluminium rails to MH steel front section? I might get over MH chassis locally and being scratching my head on how to make it long enough to convert into the "dream truck" chassis.

Glad to hear, that's very nice truck on my mind

Nowadays you don't need to scan a dog. There's a planty of images and vector samples on the net.

Those bright metal pieces can make a day. Congrats on the purchase! Do you still have your green B75 single axle? I remember you talking about the sale several times, thought you have that done.

It seems the truck is in a good shape indeed. Good interior either. The color makes it unusual, you might get it brighter applying some polish on. Any history on the H-model in the first picture? Good luck on the project! Vlad

Nice looking new rigs and attractive presentation. Although my favorit MAZ is this one.

Thank you. I will try to get some of that scrap for not expensive. How is your friend getting on his WW2 Mack resoration?

Josh - why do you need a Studebaker cab insted of the original one?

Ken, It's not at the right side of the picture, it's at the left. Tom, Those fall pictures are beautiful. I think if anybody like to spend even 1000 gallons of paint to make leaves different color it would never look as nice. Thank you for the post and... Hope FWD will not be frustrated this time

It's difficult to picture a Studebaker in that color but RW with Able bunk would look like it should of its best. Don't remember seeing or hearing about Sent-Germain Superliners though

If you go with any new wood sheet the dog might be cut out of self adgesive film in a shop wich makes advertizements or other vinil work. Then put it on and cover with clear coat.

Me the same

Could the air compressor and starter be used on E6-350?

Hmmm... Too much of the driver's seat is ate by mice.

Wonder what do they ask for LTL? If the memory serves it's on Truckpaper for no less then four years. http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=2191528&dlr=1&pcid=2000763270

From what we found out I understand that Kiwis assembled their trucks until started recieve ready ones from Brisbane factory. There is a note about "franchize agreement with Mack Trucks inc.USA" of 1973. This might mean they assembled trucks from the parts supplied from the States. If so there were NZ models specially designed (in the US??) to use a R-model frame and right hand drive setup.

Someone parted out a concrete pumper. It was probably MR. They sold the equipment and scrapped the chassis. Now the small rest is offered for sale, I might get it cheap. But the seller have nothing of an idea what the engine was. So it could be off E7 or E6-350 wich would work for me. The gearbox seems as T2050/60/70 or maybe T2090. Any thoughts on how to determine it also appreciated. Vlad

There were many nice looking firetrucks built on that chassis in Russia. Don't remember seeing any of them down the road though.

Alastair, It sounds like you had the great time being down under. Thank you for posting the link with NZ Mack history. I found very unexpected reading "R600 bonneted model, originally with a FIBERGLASS cab" Vlad

That book covers the most of the questions on E-models, not many of technical ones though. There are pictures of amazing tandem E's and incredable EQU2D or SW. Don't remember seeing anything like that one else where. By the word it seems like early E tandems used twin shaft setup with transfer case like Paul described, there's photo in the book. And the later ones had the bogie (or the most of the chassis) of the kind like LFSW had. Or what I have in my military Mack, just common Mack rears with power divider. Our Portugese member (Mack_Portugal) has interesting 1948 EH tractor with running Lanova diesel.

From my experience once you start to sand (dry sand!) clear coat you should keep thin skin of it. Otherwise sanding wood it became its original light color. Like common plywood. You have two options - keep some clear coat and when you re-coat it you still have some cracks and damages seen. Or you "grind" off the surface completely and than tone the wood with some paint or acid trying to get the correct look. Than overcoat it. By the word a two-component clear coat for body repair works perfect. Seeing you glove box door I think you can only cut off the sliced clear coat only, maybe sand the edges a bit and than overspray it as is. Or restore completely with total sand/tone and making new dog. Better to bring it to a resto shop and it will be costy.

Those Aussie fender flares look more impressive than US stock ones. They are probably made of hard plastic or fiberglass so might be damaged more serious if get a hit though.

Was it 4x4 or 6x6 truck? Zil didn't produce 4x4's those years.

As we can see Sultan didn't have any trucks in his collection. Starting from Mack is a good way of things. Thank you for posting.