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SMFire History

Porch Pup
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About SMFire History

  • Rank
    Old Iron Expert

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Santa Monica, CA

Previous Fields

  • Make
    Mack
  • Model
    125LS
  • Year
    1952

Recent Profile Visitors

1,325 profile views
  1. We are looking for a front door handle and latch assembly (see pics) for our 52 LS125. I’m not sure if they are universal or right/left specific. Could probably use either one and make it work. Thanks, Dom
  2. Paul- Thanks for the tip. I’ll probably grab a set and see how that all looks. We will eventually need to rehab our original setup. Thanks for taking the time to post up.
  3. So we decided to make our own. We are using an NOS Pierce sender that we drilled a hole in for the original pickup tube to be inserted. Adding a matching VDO fuel gauge so we know when we need fuel. All this until we pull it all apart to refurbish the gauges then we’ll do the sender at the same time.
  4. How’s this rig looking now?
  5. I decided to dig into this and see what was going on inside. I tried to attach some pictures of the process but for some reason the site is not playing nice. Here’s what I did: 1. Drilled out 2 small rivets 2. Used a tiny screwdriver to pry the 2 flange pieces apart. They are separated by a rubber gasket. 3. Used some pliers to bend the fuel tube retaining tabs so it was free. 4. Removed sending unit piece from the fuel tube piece The contact on the sender is worn and has a hole in it. I may see if my local alternator shop has anything that I can use to replace it. The other area area inside the top flange that houses the fuel pipe and rheostat that Chevy mentioned seem worn. I did try to clean them up a bit and it helped but not much. This would make sense why the readings are all over the place. It seems like the ohm range is 480-30 but I don’t see much on the web for senders in that range. Any suggestions on where to get parts? (Insert laugh here). I have not had much luck finding any senders with pickup tubes... maybe one with a built in fuel pump?
  6. Thank you for the reply. Everything I’ve found online is a sender only and no pickup tube. Bobs speedometer will refurbish ours but it’s out of our price range for the moment. I think i will carefully drill out the rivet caps and see what’s inside.
  7. So the local truck shop is no help with the part but he did suggest I may have a hard time finding the sender as it has the pickup tube built in. Anyone have a part # or suggestion on replacement? Getting a “-200 error” when trying to upload the picture.
  8. Would love some pics and dimensions. No hurry as we are a long way off from needing it but would be s good side project for one of our guys. Thank you, Dom
  9. Thank you for the information. Looks like a very easily duplicated item. Anyone have a picture of one from an L model Mack?
  10. What does a cardboard glovebox part look like? I understand this one is sold.
  11. Just trying to follow up on some loose ends from previous posts. Never got this fuel switch off or loosened up. Today I was able to get the 2 wires off and bypass the switch so 12v is getting to the fuel gauge. Still reading empty.
  12. I’ve also removed the sending unit again to bench test it. The OHMS are reading and cycling up and down but are not consistent and swing wildly sometimes with the same OHM value at top and bottom. We will order a new sending unit and matching OHM range aftermarket gauge. Anyone know what the OHM range on the original gauge is so I can keep them all the same when we go back to original?
  13. Excellent point. Yes we have a good ground at the sender. I can use it as the ground to test a positive circuit. The rig was converted to negative ground before we got it back but the gauge has never worked for us. Do we need to do something to the wiring to the gauge for the negative ground system?
  14. Hello all- We are finally getting started back up on our 52 Mack project. After a few false starts and some hiccups we’ve decided to tackle a lot of issues on our own... Our fuel gauge never comes off Empty. The sender seems to be working as the ohms cycle up and down when moved. The “Fuel” pull knob is frozen so I bypassed that for now and we have 12v going into the fuel gauge. We also have only 1 other wire coming in which I assume is the “S” wire from the sender. When I create a new jump wire from the post on the sender to the post on the gauge nothing happens. Is the gauge grounded by the mounting bolts to the back of the dash? It looks like a nightmare to get any of these gauges out from the back but at this point I think the gauge is bad. I’m tempted to install a new aftermarket fuel gauge below the dash to see how that goes for now. Anyone know off hand what the ohm range is on the sender? Hoping to not have to pull the sender again if possible. Thanks! Dom
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