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SMFire History

Porch Pup
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About SMFire History

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    Old Iron Expert

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    Santa Monica, CA

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  1. I decided to dig into this and see what was going on inside. I tried to attach some pictures of the process but for some reason the site is not playing nice. Here’s what I did: 1. Drilled out 2 small rivets 2. Used a tiny screwdriver to pry the 2 flange pieces apart. They are separated by a rubber gasket. 3. Used some pliers to bend the fuel tube retaining tabs so it was free. 4. Removed sending unit piece from the fuel tube piece The contact on the sender is worn and has a hole in it. I may see if my local alternator shop has anything that I can use to replace it. The other area area inside the top flange that houses the fuel pipe and rheostat that Chevy mentioned seem worn. I did try to clean them up a bit and it helped but not much. This would make sense why the readings are all over the place. It seems like the ohm range is 480-30 but I don’t see much on the web for senders in that range. Any suggestions on where to get parts? (Insert laugh here). I have not had much luck finding any senders with pickup tubes... maybe one with a built in fuel pump?
  2. Thank you for the reply. Everything I’ve found online is a sender only and no pickup tube. Bobs speedometer will refurbish ours but it’s out of our price range for the moment. I think i will carefully drill out the rivet caps and see what’s inside.
  3. So the local truck shop is no help with the part but he did suggest I may have a hard time finding the sender as it has the pickup tube built in. Anyone have a part # or suggestion on replacement? Getting a “-200 error” when trying to upload the picture.
  4. Would love some pics and dimensions. No hurry as we are a long way off from needing it but would be s good side project for one of our guys. Thank you, Dom
  5. Thank you for the information. Looks like a very easily duplicated item. Anyone have a picture of one from an L model Mack?
  6. What does a cardboard glovebox part look like? I understand this one is sold.
  7. Just trying to follow up on some loose ends from previous posts. Never got this fuel switch off or loosened up. Today I was able to get the 2 wires off and bypass the switch so 12v is getting to the fuel gauge. Still reading empty.
  8. I’ve also removed the sending unit again to bench test it. The OHMS are reading and cycling up and down but are not consistent and swing wildly sometimes with the same OHM value at top and bottom. We will order a new sending unit and matching OHM range aftermarket gauge. Anyone know what the OHM range on the original gauge is so I can keep them all the same when we go back to original?
  9. Excellent point. Yes we have a good ground at the sender. I can use it as the ground to test a positive circuit. The rig was converted to negative ground before we got it back but the gauge has never worked for us. Do we need to do something to the wiring to the gauge for the negative ground system?
  10. Hello all- We are finally getting started back up on our 52 Mack project. After a few false starts and some hiccups we’ve decided to tackle a lot of issues on our own... Our fuel gauge never comes off Empty. The sender seems to be working as the ohms cycle up and down when moved. The “Fuel” pull knob is frozen so I bypassed that for now and we have 12v going into the fuel gauge. We also have only 1 other wire coming in which I assume is the “S” wire from the sender. When I create a new jump wire from the post on the sender to the post on the gauge nothing happens. Is the gauge grounded by the mounting bolts to the back of the dash? It looks like a nightmare to get any of these gauges out from the back but at this point I think the gauge is bad. I’m tempted to install a new aftermarket fuel gauge below the dash to see how that goes for now. Anyone know off hand what the ohm range is on the sender? Hoping to not have to pull the sender again if possible. Thanks! Dom
  11. Looking for the chrome center grill strip for a 125. Runs vertically below the mack down towards the bumper. See pic below...
  12. ^^^^^^ Agreed. The restorer we are considering has been great from the start. Here are some of the reasons I like him (not in any particular order): 1. He is known to a member of our department. 2. He was a fire mechanic for a local department for 14 years before starting his own business. 3. He has knowledge of Mack's and has worked on similar rigs. 4. He wants to do the job right. He was offered more $ to do it faster and he was not interested. He said it had to be done to the goal of the finished product and not to a time frame. 5. He asked very good pertinent questions and answered ours above my expectations. 6. He will allow us to participate when possible. There are many others but I won't bore you with them. I will be sure to start a build thread once our funding has been finalized. Thanks again. Dom
  13. Thank you to all who responded to our request. We had a potential restorer here in SoCal come by to get a good look at our project and give us a rough estimate. We should have a detailed proposal with costs, options, timeline and a contract to review in the next few weeks. Dom
  14. Thank you for the detailed reply. I'm working a few angles to determine a range of options and appreciate all the input. We're still working with potential donors and lining up solid numbers for our project. Any other input is appreciated.
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