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SMFire History

Porch Pup
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Everything posted by SMFire History

  1. Thank you for the contact info. Kevin is very friendly and knowledgeable. Appreciate the assistance!
  2. Website I found for Kevin All in no longer available. anyone have contact info? Thanks, Dom
  3. We are looking for a front door handle and latch assembly (see pics) for our 52 LS125. I’m not sure if they are universal or right/left specific. Could probably use either one and make it work. Thanks, Dom
  4. Paul- Thanks for the tip. I’ll probably grab a set and see how that all looks. We will eventually need to rehab our original setup. Thanks for taking the time to post up.
  5. So we decided to make our own. We are using an NOS Pierce sender that we drilled a hole in for the original pickup tube to be inserted. Adding a matching VDO fuel gauge so we know when we need fuel. All this until we pull it all apart to refurbish the gauges then we’ll do the sender at the same time.
  6. I decided to dig into this and see what was going on inside. I tried to attach some pictures of the process but for some reason the site is not playing nice. Here’s what I did: 1. Drilled out 2 small rivets 2. Used a tiny screwdriver to pry the 2 flange pieces apart. They are separated by a rubber gasket. 3. Used some pliers to bend the fuel tube retaining tabs so it was free. 4. Removed sending unit piece from the fuel tube piece The contact on the sender is worn and has a hole in it. I may see if my local alternator shop has anything that I can use to replace it. The other area area inside the top flange that houses the fuel pipe and rheostat that Chevy mentioned seem worn. I did try to clean them up a bit and it helped but not much. This would make sense why the readings are all over the place. It seems like the ohm range is 480-30 but I don’t see much on the web for senders in that range. Any suggestions on where to get parts? (Insert laugh here). I have not had much luck finding any senders with pickup tubes... maybe one with a built in fuel pump?
  7. Thank you for the reply. Everything I’ve found online is a sender only and no pickup tube. Bobs speedometer will refurbish ours but it’s out of our price range for the moment. I think i will carefully drill out the rivet caps and see what’s inside.
  8. So the local truck shop is no help with the part but he did suggest I may have a hard time finding the sender as it has the pickup tube built in. Anyone have a part # or suggestion on replacement? Getting a “-200 error” when trying to upload the picture.
  9. Would love some pics and dimensions. No hurry as we are a long way off from needing it but would be s good side project for one of our guys. Thank you, Dom
  10. Thank you for the information. Looks like a very easily duplicated item. Anyone have a picture of one from an L model Mack?
  11. What does a cardboard glovebox part look like? I understand this one is sold.
  12. Just trying to follow up on some loose ends from previous posts. Never got this fuel switch off or loosened up. Today I was able to get the 2 wires off and bypass the switch so 12v is getting to the fuel gauge. Still reading empty.
  13. I’ve also removed the sending unit again to bench test it. The OHMS are reading and cycling up and down but are not consistent and swing wildly sometimes with the same OHM value at top and bottom. We will order a new sending unit and matching OHM range aftermarket gauge. Anyone know what the OHM range on the original gauge is so I can keep them all the same when we go back to original?
  14. Excellent point. Yes we have a good ground at the sender. I can use it as the ground to test a positive circuit. The rig was converted to negative ground before we got it back but the gauge has never worked for us. Do we need to do something to the wiring to the gauge for the negative ground system?
  15. Hello all- We are finally getting started back up on our 52 Mack project. After a few false starts and some hiccups we’ve decided to tackle a lot of issues on our own... Our fuel gauge never comes off Empty. The sender seems to be working as the ohms cycle up and down when moved. The “Fuel” pull knob is frozen so I bypassed that for now and we have 12v going into the fuel gauge. We also have only 1 other wire coming in which I assume is the “S” wire from the sender. When I create a new jump wire from the post on the sender to the post on the gauge nothing happens. Is the gauge grounded by the mounting bolts to the back of the dash? It looks like a nightmare to get any of these gauges out from the back but at this point I think the gauge is bad. I’m tempted to install a new aftermarket fuel gauge below the dash to see how that goes for now. Anyone know off hand what the ohm range is on the sender? Hoping to not have to pull the sender again if possible. Thanks! Dom
  16. Looking for the chrome center grill strip for a 125. Runs vertically below the mack down towards the bumper. See pic below...
  17. ^^^^^^ Agreed. The restorer we are considering has been great from the start. Here are some of the reasons I like him (not in any particular order): 1. He is known to a member of our department. 2. He was a fire mechanic for a local department for 14 years before starting his own business. 3. He has knowledge of Mack's and has worked on similar rigs. 4. He wants to do the job right. He was offered more $ to do it faster and he was not interested. He said it had to be done to the goal of the finished product and not to a time frame. 5. He asked very good pertinent questions and answered ours above my expectations. 6. He will allow us to participate when possible. There are many others but I won't bore you with them. I will be sure to start a build thread once our funding has been finalized. Thanks again. Dom
  18. Thank you to all who responded to our request. We had a potential restorer here in SoCal come by to get a good look at our project and give us a rough estimate. We should have a detailed proposal with costs, options, timeline and a contract to review in the next few weeks. Dom
  19. Thank you for the detailed reply. I'm working a few angles to determine a range of options and appreciate all the input. We're still working with potential donors and lining up solid numbers for our project. Any other input is appreciated.
  20. All- As many of you may be aware Santa Monica Firefighters Relief Fund purchased one of our older Mack engines several years ago. It's a 52 LS125 and we have spent a small amount ($12,000) purchasing the rig, registering, insuring, and getting it safely on the road. It needs a lot of repairs to be a full functioning rig but it will putt around town at 25 MPH. We are in the initial stages of making a budget for a complete refurbishment/restoration and I'm looking for help in determining costs. We're not shooting for an NCRS type restoration but want it to be very nice. It will be in our community for the next 100 years (I hope) and used to raise money for our Relief Fund which allows us to support worthy causes throughout Santa Monica. My initial BIG number I think would be $150k but I am trying to determine if that's about right. We have a few donors that are willing to make significant contributions but would like some type of estimate for the project. There is not a shop around here that I can drop it off and have it completely restored. Are there shops outside SoCal that specialize in Macks and can make this like new? Even then we are really trying to get our members and the community involved in the restoration rather than just farming it out. I have access to a local rig and it's receipts that had a significant restoration a few years ago so that helps. It has some common items that needed attention but our rig has more to be done. Any assistance in determining costs would be helpful. Here's a partial list of things I think MAY need significant attention. Just looking for ballpark figures until I can get real quotes: Located in SoCal so that may increase costs. 1- Engine seems fine but I will do a compression test. Rebuild Cost? Will need cleaning/painting/gaskets, etc. 2- Transmission is noisy (unless it's the rear end). Shifts fine but could use a rebuild. Cost? 3- Rear end is noisy (unless it's the tranny). Rebuild? 4- Hale Pump is inop. Also missing the shift pieces at the panel. Has not been run since mid 80's. I'm going to try to see if it spins this week. 5- Paint/Body: Very little rust. This I think is going to run anywhere between $25-30K but may have a donor lined up for this. We may customize for seating in the rear. 6- Chrome: $8-12K? 7- Gauges- We have 9 that need to be done at $4500? 8- Complete Rewire $2-3k with everything new. 9- Air brakes- No clue. I replaced the maxi switch and two rear cans already. Lots of air leaks (Or one big one!) 10- Generator & Starter rebuild $1000 11- Need Rostand Bell- $1000 12-Carb Rebuild $300-500 13- Custom Stainless Fuel Tank $3000 14- Glass-All...? 15- Stainless fasteners $3000 16-Upholstery- $750-1000 17-Steering box rebuild ? 18- All New exhaust (manifolds seem fine) but will replace gaskets 19- Radiator recored ? Water pump rebuild? 20- Clutch- Needs adjustment or repair 21-Driveshaft u-joints repaired/repainted 22-Repair one small dent in wheel 23- Manual parking brake rebuilt 24- Frame cleanup and paint 25-Switches in cab (some of these may need to be replaced) 26- Rebuild growler 27- We need some warning lights, etc. TBD 28-May consider adding the small PTO pump that Oceanside's rig has? Anyone have a line on one of these or know the cost? 29- Fuel pump rebuild $350? Obviously labor is a big cost for the items that we cannot do ourselves. We have some motorheads so the basics of removing generators/carbs/ etc and sending them out is no big deal. But I'm not sure our guys are willing to do the clutch, etc. Oceanside's main mechanic that works on their 52 is more than willing to help. Thank you for taking the time to read through this long post and sharing any insight. Dom
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