Vladislav

Guy, That's pretty interesting that many people still remember driving them. Overhere I just heard the stories from some folks who remembered seeing them driving down the streets. There were not many of them supplied to the SU at all, an undocumented figure is nearly 700 units. With no parts supply during a Cold war and having troubles with SAE bolts and nuts Lend-Lease vehicles were gone probably to the end of 60's. I myself remember seeing anything in the streets starting from 1980 and nothing of so old rigs was showed out.

Ufff... I tell you a secret - I didn't do that Haven't blasted and painted brake shoe bases either. Just pretty sure no one would see those areas and nothing bad about any technical issues. Sure you should do things the way you're completey satisfied of. But it seems to me sometimes I should achieve satisfaction of 90% only. I should go ahead and can't afford redoing some things twice or three times just because I'm not 100% happy of how it's done.

I have Lund(s) with no brace. They were made of fiberglass and seem no cracks of being deformed by wind. No less than 1 million miles on each of the 2 trucks for sure.

It seems it was one happy day for the driver - he survived with the tractor. Not sure how it turned nice to the engeneer.

On the pictures they look double and new. Or near that.

I replaced one rail. And some of the cross members. So it's better be called combined two frames to make one. Alot of rust in between, both trucks were built in 1945 and probably didn't catch a day under a roof. Glad to hear you have gone through the frame rebuild story, hope you'll not stuck on that with the B. Sure if you will see a need of such a rebuild. A frame doesn't show out much being under a tank body.

Congrats on the work done Jake! Looks unbelivable!

Wow! Need to dust off my christal ball (check out the book). Ok, the book tells that one above could be NR-5, 6 or 7 of 1941-42. Might be a earlier NR-2 or 3 either but those seem to have no additional side boards. Everything all over the truck on the picture look original including the wheels, body and the over the cab sun reflector. The only exception is the grill added - neither NR had a grill from the factory. But they had a military style protection grill at the front. That one is gone and we can see bevel support rods wich it was attached to. Any more facts about the truck? Do you have a serial number?

That makes me thinking the amount of both snow and garbage is increased in your town. Not sure about the tractor purpose. Just kidding. Nice to see brand new Macks in your neck of the woods

Being not much educated about English concepts I always thought it was the way I did it Reading about your front hubs I'd say you have nice chances to examine it yourself

I damn like that color scheme! Don't remember seeing many of such ones for some reason.

That's a true way. Just long a little bit

How about when one side of a front rear axle is up and the other down? The edge of the outer tyre might get higher than.

Timmy, If you'd be able to show us how the hood is attached to the frame on Aussie RW2 I'm two thumbs up to see it.

Thank you Phil. I have many things done along that project since the frame post was shared but not much of what looks interesting enough. Going to put some assemblies together and than show them out. You know that kind of work doesn't go fast though.

That's cool on my mind. The only thing I'd like it much better if it looks like a truck.

Ken, That's good you put the part ##. I should share some of them with Santa.

Got through all the thread. Just missed it at some point earlier being thinking you still replace the rear panel. Alot of interesting work and solutions. I had thoughts on lining the dash with leather but was told it wouldn't be nice from the upholstery guy. Would like to see your interior ready. Glad to see the progress on your truck. Great job and done right

I also flirt with that kind of idea but not able to get a set forward axle CH overhere, CX Visions only. You should double check frames' front part similaryty, it might be so. If rails and spring hangers aren't of the same style I wouldn't go with deep modifications. An RD cab you mention has the same cowl form as a RW at the left only. The right side where an air cleaner is mounted is different and must be reworked. Vlad

I heard about elephant ears so far. Any other elephant body elements might be found in a Mack truck?

Thanks for the comment Paul, I was worrying any body could figure out any good figure out of what I posted I would note it doesn't cost a penny spent but the most important it guarantees you have the job done and you know it was done right. Cheers from white fly neighbourhood mate!

Who would have thunk.. Something seems amiss in that story indeed.

As said in the post above You might get better informed looking on the engine number. It's stamped on the right side of the engine near the front cover. Mack overhead engines of those years were called Thermodynes both gas and diesels. There were many of modifications of different sizes and HP. From what you posted it looks like EN510 or EN707. Not many chances (if any?) to tell how big it is for sure excepting by the engine number. Vlad

Mrsmackpaul said how it might be done on many old day's diesels. You need to turn off the #1 "top fitting" on the pump i.e. valve holder body, the part wich #1 injector line is attached to. Than take out a valve stem (don't touch it by thingers and keep absolutely clean) and drive the body back. For the best you need a half of a injector line (or just an old one) U-formed to put onto the valve body (port #1 of the pump). One end of that pipe is on the #1 port and another is free and near an empty can. Than pumping by hand prime pump you will see fuel coming out of that line into the can. Turning pump's drive shaft you will find a moment the fuel stops to drop out and become again if drive the shaft back. The very moment the fuel stops run is the beginning of the #1 pump section getting pressure to injector line. Putting the pump of that condition onto the engine with the crank on the injection mark makes the deal. You need to double check it when installed and correct along the flange if needed. The matter of things is a plunger it its burrel. Plunger goes up being forced by pump's cam shaft. At some point it covers the fuel intake hole in the burrel's side. After the hole is covered plunger forces the fuel up. And it has no way but into injector line. That's the injection start point. When you pump fuel by prime pump you forces it to plunger barrels. It comes to the input holes in the barrel walls and can come inside if a plunger is below the hole. The valve above the burrel doesn't allow the fuel to come into the line until high pressure is achieved so you need to remove it. With no valve fuel comes out of the pump port and you see it. Turning drive shaft you get the #1 plunger near the intake hole and that moment located indicates the correct drive shaft position. Hope you can and want to understand it.

Hmmm... Becarefulwhatyouwishfor... I should think well A pair of L or B-model differentials could make my New Year