Vladislav

Looks tasty! Glad to hear you have the issue resolved. Putting trim on freshly painted parts is about the most nice part of work. Don't hurry, polish every thing at least a lil bit. Hope the progress will go faster now.

Thre was a talk on that matter a while back. As far as my memory serves there were no usable options excepting original stuff. So Watts seems like the way to go. There are some nuances on how many items you need to do one door, worth to pay attention asking a parts guy on that matter.

The new owner probably too like bulldosers. Or there was another reason in swapping the engine in running truck. Although it's a common thing when a man put his hands on stuff wich is new to him. Getting fresh paint CAT looks nice on its new place.

Locally people cast concrete structures all over a year. When temperature goes lower than the freezing point concrete suppliers add anti-freeze additive. I asked several times and was told from them if I spread concrete at about 3-5 degrees below zero Celsias (freezing point) I might need no additive, just put a poliethilene film onto. Concrete hardening reaction radiate heat and it would be enough just to cover it over. It was said to the case I drop outside, not inside the building. Done it many times myself.

Glad to see your R is getting love! And about that guy... That's not often to go such way.

$4300 for a complete kit doesn't sound bad. I just remember seeing PAI one on the net for something like $9000. Good luck on putting the engine back together.

I think they are still avalible new from Mack both black and stainless. And if the memory serves our Commander-in-chief Barry has them in stock for less or about the same cost as that ebay deal.

Pretty sure a A-model. Swishy, you aren't far from the true. A model could be described as a newer version of E-model with different nose. You can see EH in the pic background.

Maybe it was imported used and from elsewhere? Some chassis shots might clear up the matter of the fact. I remember you or somebody else posted pictures of B-model Macks in Israel. So why this one can't be just one of them? The other reason - if this one exactly was Lanova, there also was a parts truck. You can sure see B-model stock components - the cab, hood, hubs with rims, fuel tank and so on.

Uhhh... From the number of the quotes I would say that's the event of the week on here

I wish that Jag. Just kidding. I would really like to get a such one if possible for that cost with shipping and customs.

Fresh parts look bright and make the truck nice. Reading of what the stuff you already invested in her I'd go for a better cab and maybe new hood. Sure a lot of $$ is spent to the moment but you'll not be able to scratch off the paintwork if want to go with a better cab in the future. My hat's off for what is done

Seems to late for a duct tape either. Better to look for another one with sex six cylinders and shape optained.

It seems you'll need balls to have a ball with it. E9 overhaul kits aren't for an avarage pocket. Can you buy just a bearing shells set and grind the shaft?

Was it typical to paint rims in silver for firetrucks? Here and in Europe it's pretty common to have rims or wheels painted silver but I see the most over the big water are white and light gray.

Tom, I planned just to say "Keep it stock with 671 and it will be good old original" but reading your quote I lost any possibility to type or say anything for no less than 3 minutes !! You may hate them or love them two strokes but the both ways will give you alotta emotions.

I'm not almost with the rest of the gang this time. Randy, all that including the stories sounds great! I know when you have one truck it's difficult to avoid a chance to increase the score. Now you got into that kind of pit like the most of folks on here. But I'm pretty sure you're absolutely happy at the moment. Very good point you're making that deal together with your dad. For what I think about all that personally read below.

From looking the style their trunnion stand is built I'm not sure it will offer about as good strength distribution to frame rails with its welded-on pipe extensions as OEM one wich contacts by whole U-member. That's a big difference transmitting strenght through points or between big surface. Much less stress concentration. On the other hand they offer their stuff and I think it was designed by some way and proofed. So should work. It seems they have a big offer on other aftermarket suspension components including Neway parts. Thank you for posting the link. Vlad

My Canadian built R688ST, or better to note at least three trucks of that bunch have 5.02's. They're equipped with E6-350 and T2090 9 speed wich has overdrive of 0.71. With 11R24.5 I can do 120km/h (about 72mph) looking the speedo but 150km/h (70mph) checking that with GPS. At that point the truck doesn't accelerate more, looks like the rev limiter works but I'm not sure. Sorry my tacho is speechless at the moment. Doing her average 55-60mph she sounds quite good and I wouldn't see any trouble if use it for work. Having a hobby reason I'd like to cruise some parts of big and empty highways making 125-130km/h (75-80mph) and have a couple of options for that. To use 4.17 carriers or put T2060 6 speed with 0.6 OD and less shift steps wich might work better for a single tractor I think. But again, 5.02's with 0.71 OD and tall tyres seems to me a way off a disaster.

Hat, you would throw about all the stock of beer there for that reason since there's a planty of them NIT's. Randy, thank you for sharing that nice row of pictures. It seems they were done during a really looong week. I was surprized seeing the kids that tall (that not tall) but the explanations made sence. The shot of the red hood with golden hair scripts is a beauty!

Karl, you sure are almost right. But our hero is on his steep way to straighten it up 100%

Looks like some rail switch equipment. Just wonder what a relation between rails and a U-model..

Or weld a nut on the bolt's top and cut it off when it's done.

My R's have no them plow bolts in that spot nor any bolts at all since that end bracked welded to the crossmember central beam. I wish I have them like yours and able to clean all the rust from in between. I would cut the nut off and swap with new ones if possible. Or if you gonna save them grind off the side of the nut to break its tubness and get it loose enough to drive off.

That thingamabob might be a lost part off U-model wich purpose was to keep her in balance Neat fall shots.