Vladislav

Hmm... Straight rails could be manufactured here locally. With only trouble of metric sheet thikness. I.e. you can order 6 mm or 8 mm, not real 1/4". Wonder are OEM R and RW rails still avalible? And how costy?

Nice pick-up! And the crue of the foresters too. The new shed is great! And what is more important, it's fire-proof. Hope the mixer can suit it with no troubles.

Anybody please give me explanations on this matter - are those rails fabricatet by PG Adams or others have all the shapes in the front area (like say R or RW Mack have)? Or are they just straight pieces of rail you need to weld in the middle of your truck to be connected to the original front end? Thanks.

Cool piece of old iron! Some amount of them was supplied to us either.

Congrats on the steal deal ! The truck looks nice and the idea with lights is neat indeed. Good luck on bringing Mack to better condition! BTW you can always relax for a bit during the work with a can of cold coke. Vlad

Guys, what do you talk about? -28 F ??? Sounds coooold-d-d!

Hmm... A neat entertainment it is as it seems to me. Personally I'm going to pass it due to the need of visit Facebook page and than wait 3 weeks of shipping. But it's not a great trouble to order something similar locally. I suppose T2090 would work well for me.

The price is not really friendly but note how clean the interior is.

Don't forget to reproduce the lower corner split on the bottoms of the door panels. Those areas are straight against the cab reinforcement plates and really tight. I got my door unable to close with the newly fabricated panel because the upholstery guy "slacked" on the size of the "triangle" and made it less than it should be.

I personally would prefere just one drive axle longer

I got exactly the same issue just a couple of weeks back. It was with my 4x4 when I switched the wheels from summer ones (off-road) to the winters. Those big ones 33x12.5 had more off-set so when I put the jack it was back of the tyre. But when I tried to install the whinter wheel with normal off-set I got I against the jack. Needed a couple of minutes to figure out why I couldn't fit it on the center of the hub. I such cases I use to say it's better when you have an issue resolved such easy way, no matter how much of time and efforts you spent. I mean in relation to possible really hard issue.

I suppose that is the reason he still has it for sale. Here are couple of pics from the previous add we have discussed in the past. Note the dates on them.

Didn't know that. I thought both were owned by Gary Mahan.

I suppose those ones you saw in Ukraine were KrAZ trucks. Cool looking units designed in the late 50's. Still plenty of them in operation in Ukraine and Russia. Interesting fact that they got their basic design from military Macks model NR which were supplied to Soviet Union under Lend-Lease during WW2.

Yes, they did. But they sure were/are located in Europe, Austria BTW Austria is NOT Australia.

The tanker is cool one! Mack was for sale in the past. Seems overpriced. But you know a truck costs as much as anybody wants to pay for it. So might be someone is currently dreaming to get it.

I got about a same issue in the past. The rims on my WW2 Mack are of the same design as yours with a difference they are 24's. When I was buying the spare truck in Holland from my friend I wanted to combine the wheels to get a set of good ones. He had some of but we had to remove them from the other truck in his shed. Once I pointed out one of the good thread wheels he explained me that the wheel was a "strange one". It could fit as a front or an outside one but doesn't go on the hub to be used as an inner. He supposed it was off a B-model or anything else. Just a case there were two different styles of a 24 inch tube rim. It had a bit different design of the lock ring either. Finally I kept it because of the tyre and now I have to go to Holland one more time for a correct rim to assemble the spare for my truck. Fortunately it is not a hot need. Those original ones I sandblasted and painted. And the hubs either. When installing I although needed no scrapping of paint off the hubs but got the rims on nearly free, with almost no paint scratching along the travel. Did it easy and smooth though, applying grease on the hubs. Actually we put a piece of thin plywood on the floor and stand a wheel on it against a hub. Than elevated the hub with a jack to level it. And than carefully slid the wheel with the plywood to get it right on the hub. Did it 3 men and got no more than 1 or 2 minor paint chips off. The rims went on almost free, moreover, with a minor gap. All blasted, primered and painted, as I already noted above.

Welcome to the forum! Vlad

Worth to be saved at least on your hard disk.

I once did it that way either and got no lights. Found out the swich burned. Connected the wires right on it to light the low beam and made the rest of the way.

Probably your low ride highway cruisers are relatively snow-friendly. Once I drove my buddie's Yamaha Drag Star 1300 but never did it off a pavement. As of my experience my Honda VFR800 sport turer just gets horizontal after you try to start on wet clay or snow and ice. If you are catched up with a rain in a middle of grassy field you better get out to a paved road ASAP. Probably it's a matter of heigth of the center of gravity.

That's one impressive thing you found the ability to fabricate.

The radiator (the original one) appears to me as a AC-1, with belt-driven fan.

I was not serious on that matter

Neat picture. I like the AC. Would be nice to bring it back to life. And looks like someone started to install air conditioning on it. Or did you mean exactly that when titled the thread "AC logger"?