Vladislav

I always thought those were designed specially for kango-roo's. Local authoritys went crazy about such stuff recently. Give fines left and right. Actually only rigs with special marks made in their papers in earlier years which indicate approved installation of such bumpers go easy. Everybody else are outlaws.

Sorry to see that mess. No, I don't mean I dislike the pictures. Just sorry for the loss. Good thing on the other hand you found out the fire just in time so you could prevent worse to be happen. One thing still rests having scratching my head - is the tarp a real one or photochopped??

I have an issue uploading either. And it seems like a trouble now. Some while back, nealry 6-7 month I had notification of something like Max upload size of say 3 Mb. Later I got it less. Than I once ran out of the size. I revised my old posts and re-sized big pics in them. Got a bit of space as a result. Than revised my PM's and deleted the most of pics larger than 500kb. Got a bit of space again. But after posting every new picture on the forum the amount of Mb's allowed went less and less. With no increase during the time. Now I'm already out of space, only 0.06Mb as I can see. Can't post pictures anymore. And I don't remember a moment when I uploaded damn many of them.

Wonder how does Australian R700 look?

I did the same with one of my aluminium ones on the R locally. Locally was 700 km from home though They made a new tube but couldn't offer the bottoms of the correct size. So my old ones came back together with the steps, filler neck and the drain pan.

I doubt on that. Keep in mind Western R700 (which were correctly called RS700 or RL700) were built on their own style frames. The rails were straight end to end, with no spread or section decrease in the front like Eastern R's had. On the other hand the most Australian Macks of thouse days (or all of them?) were built using Eastern style R-model chassis. So it seems to me like just no RS/RL model ever exist in Australia.

Wow! Plenty of interesting info on here, as usually. Thanks for posting. Snowdog - my R-model(s) has the manufacturing date as 09.1988 marked on at least two factory tags. One on the door and another on the door opening (paper print under plasitc lamination). Unfortunately I haven't got factory records for them. Once I contacted Watts (long ago) and a parts guy said me he couldn't identify the truck. I than sent him the second truck's VIN and he had no luck again. Then he said he contacted Mack museum and they didn't have the records either. They requested the tags and I sent pics of them back. No luck in the end. Since then I found two more VINs of the other SGT R's (a lot of 5 was imported to Russia). Should request the museum myself. But it's a trouble for me to make donation to them so I keep this deal for better times so far. Oo, seems like I have an idea on the year coding mistake. It might mean the letter in VIN indicates a MODEL year, not a calendar one. You know the most producents swap models in September after re-organize production lines in August when the most workers have a rest. So if my truck was made in September it might carry 1989 VIN. Just an idea though.

Upps... 2M2N187Y8KC026171 Seems like #10 digit is K... September 1988, marked on the same plate.

I was thinking that the same matter along my R-model hood. Resolved to use car underbody protection coat in spray. Had one more ultimate idea of applying body seam sealer fatt layer by brush and than put a piece of thin stainless steel net. Something like 2x2 or 3x3 mm cell. Or make two pieces of SS sheet and put them into the fender inside ups glued with a thick layer of construction foam. Haven't done anything so far excepting a couple of extra layers of glass mat with epoxy resin. The same as I used for the other cracks.

Candy! I'm afraid you didn't get it for free though.

Neat UPS picture, Ed. Hope the doctor knows what he does. Best wishes on a good turn out.

Tommy, your textoshopping skills aren't bad.

It might be VIN coding system was a bit different for the US and Canada Macks. My R's don't look like they ever were gliders. Cabs have VIN plates stating the trucks as R688ST what means six wheel tractor. Moreover, there are paper tags in the door openings with info typed onto. They also contein VIN, the manufacturing date, tyre sizes and weight raitings for both front and REAR axles. The vehicle type is typed as "tractor R688ST". Seems to me as too many characteristics to be applied to a glider. I still do not pretend on to be an expert though.

Not one nice thing to hear. If I were you I might order new round tanks from Cleveland and than order some alu weld shop (or tank repair shop?) to weld used B-model steps in them. As for DOT the way seems to me as to represent the tanks as old original ones. Braking the law, braking the law... Talking about Cleveland tanks I got a question in my mind for a while. Can they sell just round aluminium bottoms of 24.5" diameter separately? I would convert them into complete tanks locally.

Ufff... She doesn't seem too young to me.

Happy Thanksgiving BMT!

Incomplete?? It seems strange to me since all 5 SGT R's imported to Russia had their VIN's starting from 2M2N.

Can you temporary employ them? For example to wirebrush AC bulldog frames? They might really start thinking on finding a new location. I'm not just kidding but share my experience

Good luck on the fight to Ed. Too sorry to hear.

VIN starting from 2 means the truck was made in Canada. At least a Mack truck.

What's about 11x24=NR?

Not many nowadays. There were plenty of them dump trucks in the North when building BAM railroad in the 80's. They were branded Magirus-Deutz though.

I'm with Hat this time. Also like the grader's leaker motor.

Deutz produced trucks. With their air-cooled engines in them.

That too might be not a missprint. In this discussion we missed one fact so far. If you look over the tyre sizes there are 11.00's and 11.00 R's. This means two mentioned sizes exist(ed) in both bias and radial design. And according to the chat above they have different sizes. Actually it's difficult to suppose exact dimentions of some tyre taking to account so wide variety of them. But from my practice 12.00R24's (tube's) I put on my WW2 Mack are really huge. Sure larger than 12.00R24.5 I have a pair of in my yard. And talking closer to the matter of question they are noticably bigger than 10.50-24's (!!) which my truck rode when was purchased. The truck had two tyre sizes from the factory in different years - 10.50-24 and 11.00-24. As far as i remember reading in different sources in the past older (bias) tyre sizes had the first figure in their designation as the heigth of its profile. So when you put that heigth twice and add the rim size that would mean the overall diameter. But for radials (or just newer wheels starting from some date in years) the firs figure is the profile width. When you have a profile share (/75, /60 e t.c.) marked, the higth might be count as the percentage of the width pointed behind the slash. And when you have it NOT, you should count the profile higth as 84% or 100% referring to different sources. Taking all that into a sum we can explain all those differences in tyre sizes we use to deal with together with difficulties to recognize an actual wheel's measurements. And getting further that's the reason I keep alot of scepsis to different tyre calculators and chats and trust the most to an actual size I can just measure with a bend.