Vladislav

Paul mate, My 6 cylinder animal is called Econodyne!! And it can't boast of its total health. During multiple overhauls and modifications it lost some minor parts like for example a puff limiter. The turbo is of an unknown source either. Injectors should go on a bench and I suppose with the pump as a company. Describing its function I can state it smokes like a burning hell when you have your revs low. I hope I will go with just 5 speeds or maybe only 4 as I said in the post above. Not sure I will almost go off with T2090 9 speed. But currently I have neither good ones and the overdrive of 0.71 I would prefere faster. Can swap the rears though. The current 9 speed tranny would probably need a set of high range gear wheels and a set of sliding clutches to mate them. I doubt they are cheap new ones and doubt on easiness finding such parts used. I might trace a used box with some other issue locally to boil a can of soup of all the old iron. Let's see. It just looks attractive to me though to put another tranny in the truck to keep it running while tinkering with parts. Vlad

G'day Roland, My T2090 has 5 low range gears and 5 high ones. With 5th low (5th) and 1st high (6th) of the similar ratio. So Mack just doesn't count one of them calling the tranny 9 speed. When bobtailing I start on a flat ground I just use the lowest gear of the High range (Mack calls it 5th). Than switch further every step having them 5 at all. Looking the transmission chat that gear I use for a start has 2.79 ratio. It's fast a lil bit and I go low range when uphill or crowling in tight spots. If we look for Mack 5 speed T2050 tranny (and also 6,7,8 speed T2060,T2070, T2080 not considering their crowl gears) the 2nd speed is 3.05. So having one of those units I might drive it as a four speed box. Having the lower 1st gear (5.24) for narrow starts. The current box I have I can't drive as a hot rod no matter I really want it or not. The shift clutches seem so worn so you sometimes spend 5-10 seconds putting a next gear in. You loose the throttle, get a gear off, wait for a moment than start to put it in. It grinds so you wait a lil bit more. And if you didn't get it in it grinds again having engine revs now low. So you hit gas and try again. If not (again!) you can try to level the shaft speeds playing with gas and keeping your feel on the shift lever for a chance. As the previous owner said to me when showed that process, if you can't put it in better stop on a shoulder and start from the 1st. Just too many drivers went through the truck and the most trucks they drove before and after had synchro gearboxes. Interesting to see the movie you driving. Difficult to get a hard feeling but it seems my ride is much softer. At least when you go on pavement the cab doesn't do catches. I sure have way longer wheelbase. Have a good time, Vlad

Hmm.. The link even doesn't allw me to get to the site. Probably rumors spread really fast. When I was in that part of the country I visited Mystic seaport. Enjoyed it very much. Nice place to spend a weekend, lots of historical stuff and very good organized.

Yes, I heard about some submarine base in that part of New England. Just could not get myself there during that mission.

Randy, thanks for sharing a bit of your life activity. Where is that boat yard? Connecticut?

Is the reason of the sign the people dislike air brake exhaust? If so they would hear crash sounds sometimes. And probably syrenes.

Ok Roland, Let us pull this old thread back from... No, not from a grave. Ok, from... Hell, not from deep down under either. Ok, from a dusty past. The way you see the truck here is how it looked a couple of weeks after purchase. All I got to do with it to that moment was only a pair of new bulldog mirrors. Today it feels much better. Polished Alcoa wheels were installed with new tall tyres (as it had from the factory), one tank polished and another completey redone (to be polished). Air filter is totally restored to the way I'd like to get it done. I got a pair of good cab doors which were blasted, painted and assembled with most new weatherstripping e.t.c. They're on the cab now. Almost new sleeper bunk was made by me and my guys of stainless steel. It's currently prepaired for paint work. The same with the hood which was excessively fixed about all cracks and damages and is getting love at my friend's paint shop. A kind of long story though as it used to be with paintwork. As of ride smothness it's difficult for me to relate it to other trucks since I'm not a truck driver. It goes very good on a smooth pavement (as I suppose should be for NOT a car). But shakes as hell passing wash board or a dirt road. Sometimes I had to go nearly 5 km/h for some km's because of the hood starting jump and hit the firewall. Probably it's a normal thing for some roads we have here. I felt big improvement when first I put 11R24.5's in place of old and worn 285/75R22.5's, than following our discussion this past spring I dropped tyre pressure in the rears from 4 to 2.5 Bar (35pci). At least I got full contact of the rear wheel thread areas to the pavement. Due to many reasons I unfortunately didn't drive the truck much this summer so haven't got new experience. Of its specifications the truck is a Canadian built one and seems it was specified mostly for highway use. I haven't notice US produced R's of the similar kind. Usually they are for heavy work. The one I have (I have them two BTW) has relatively long wheelbase (the size is unknown to me) with 60" Canadian spread in the rears. The frame is a single channel 1/4 thich standart R600 frame. The engine is in-line 6 Mack E6-350 4V with chassis-mount air-to-air aftercooler. Gearbox is Mack T2090 aluminium housing 9 speed with 0.71 overdrive. Drive axles are also Mack, coupled with Neway airride suspension. Ratio is 5.02. Two big round aluminium fuel tanks (400++ liters each, don't remember the figure) and a single bed Canadian-made sleeper of unknown producent (but serial, not a single-made custom one). Talking about it I would argue you statement on coldness of that appartment. Probably being originally designed for cold temps it has 2" (5 cm) glass wool insulation. Once I was doing the trip described above I stayed overnight in it when it was nearly +5 outside. I used my sleeping bag but felt like I woked up at my home room in the morning. Actually a bit nicer since there was nice environment around and little rainy. For the road speeds I looked over my speedo on the top gear and saw 125 km/h when the engine ran up to its limit revs and didn't accelerate anymore. Actually I didn't know the revs because of the tacho not working. Haven't heard anything wrong from the engine doing it though. GPS showed 119 km/h at the same time. Sure I didn't run it that way for a while. Doing 100km/h (60MPH) it sounds nicer and doesn't worry me. A bit of more road speed would be good (nobody would argue). For that reason I found a set of carriers with 4.17. And than later I got T2070 7 speed tranny with 0.60. Swapping them both would be madness. Actually my 9 speed is too worn out (always grind no matter how gentle you are) so swap or rebuild is nesessary. T2070 is more like a 5 speed with two low gears as the addition. It has longer steps than T2090 to drive just 5 speed. Don't know how good it would be for E6 since it's not Maxidyne. Might work for a hobby truck having 350 horses to just bobtail. I'm going to put it in the next summer for a try. Vlad

G'day Roland, No I haven't got to it before. Spent a pleasant while reading right now. Thanks the great for taking that much of your time posting it. Too interesting to learn details and both take myself to your part oof the world. Sure a bit different than at me. We have just 35 cm of snow all over right now. I f I were you I keep all the story you posted somwhere on you hard disk too. Nobody knows the future but you might be enjoyed to wright some life stories of yours. I either had a nice trip with my old R when I purchased it. Not such a long one as you did but it was good enough for me making 1500 km all over for my almost first truck drive. You can put your eye on it either if have a bit of interest. It was typed 4 years back for now and I hope I spell British better now. So don't put much shame on me when reading. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/27906-double-sleeper-run/#comment-142396 Have a good time, Vlad

I like the item, not sure I'm ready to state I like the cost though.

Take care of the truck and be proud of your dad. He must be sure that "his" truck is in good hands. Great looking B BTW.

I made both things this time. Made a bit more of the second procedure though than I used to. Turned out good HNY BMT!

Love the T-short fashioned on! How heavy was that big coil you put in the middle of the trailer. It seems to me to get it transported safer if put right close to the deck drop area. This might be a stupid question since I'm not a trucker but I'd like to lean more of such matters. Thanks for the first 2017 pics issue!

Can't wait to see the cab and hood painted. Whonder which color. Superdogs are damn attractive and many colors absolutely take them apart from other rigs.

That's not that difficult if you have a bit of key info. In a matter of helping your friend as you mentioned above you better remove big side covers on the carriers you have and count actual teeth. They are seem well from there. Then relate your counts to the figures I posted above and Bob's your uncle, as Britishes would say

Looks like a lot of progress is done and still plenty of job in the future. Good luck on the project! If you will make some more pictures the other day please post a couple of views of the chassis very front crossmember. I'd like to see the difference of them between MH (I have) and Superliner. And also the way a RWII hood attaches to.

Have a safe and happy New Year! Seems like European folks met it earlier than the Untited States. So probably our Aussie and NZ members are already used to live in 2017 and keep the holiday just in memories

Wonder where Turks hide all their Macks. Probably Iranian border worked out the deal. Thank you for posting that page.

Math should be applied to figure out final ratios. One of the posts above explaines how to do it. A while back I found the top set gears (bewel ones pinion and the ring) teeth numbers somewhere on the net. For CRD92/93. As you can see from the below every upper gear set provides multiple carrier ratios. This is because of different lower (bull gear) sets. 13x17: 4.50, 4.76, 5.13 14x17: 3.86, 4.17, 4.42 16x17: 3.65, 3.87 13x19: 4.46, 5.02, 5.32, 5.73 13x21: 5.55, 5.88, 6.34, 7.00, 7.13 Unfortunately bull gears were not explained where I got the numbers from. But using math you can get those secondary (lower) sets ratios. Not the gear counts though but ratios. For example: 14x17 teeth set ratio is 17/14 = 1.214. It is used in 4.17's. If you divide 4.17 by 1.214 you get 4.17/1.214 = 3.435. This is the ratio of the bull gear set of 4.17 carrier. If you know the teeth count for one of those bull gears you could get the other one's. But I don't. Now look for 5.02. It has 13 and 19 teeth in the upper set. 19/13 = 1.461. Than dividing 5.02 by 1.461 we get 3.436. This is the same figure as we got at 4.17 count (the difference between 3.435 and 3.436 is math roughness because I used limited number of digits after point.) So we determine by that 4.17 and 5.02 carriers have similar bull gear sets.

So does it mean there are both one bolt and two bolt tranny brackets for every kind of transmission used on those Macks?

Looks like Aussie dogs are pedigreed a bit different way than American ones. Sorry, out of likes for today.

Do you need to swap the chassis mounting brackets to put Fuller in place of Mack or vice versa? Just today looking my MH model frame (which should be similar to Suerliner) I noted those brackets the tranny housing seats on have only one rubber unsulator pad on each side of the truck. MH has Fuller 9 speed. On the other hand my R's with Mack T2090 have two pads on each side. Wonder what do MH/RW2 with Mack tranny have of them?

The main difference between those military Timken setup (and many others) and Mack Camelback is the attachment of the spring ends to the axles. Or more correctly to explain, the way axles of the bogie are designed to be kept in their place. Generally you need to have them both not moving front/back and side ways and not to turn over themselves. Usually 6 or 8 torque rods are used. 4 basic ones - 2 to each axle near the ends to connect to the central crossmember. Than two or four mounted higher, usually at the carrier housing, which working together with the lower pair prevent the axle from turning over. Mack Camelback is a bit another story. Mack uses only two torque rods. The upper ones. The role of the lower set of rods is played by the spring packs. They are attached to the axle housings and don't allow them to travel. As long as articulation of the bogie must be realized the spring ends are suited between two rubber pads which allow the springs to twist in them a little bit. When a vehicle turns its axles might be forced to go sideways. In most tandem bogies springs themself prevent the axles from going left and right. On Mack heavy series rears additional torque rod is installed connecting one of the carriers to the frame rail for taking that kind of stresses.

Almost out of likes. By some reason I enjoy them better than longer hood B73/75's. Is that a V8 thing?

Eye catching stories you guys already posted. Many thnks for. But let me toss a nikel to the original matter. The shortage of good tech speciailists is a well-known matter now and the reasons of its appearance are detailetely described above. On the other hand the world we live in is a market area (to some degree). Starting from that I too hope a shortage of offer with demand existing will force the job cost go high. If it happens sufficiently much more younger boys and girls will choose those "real" professions.

Ah so! Seems your right, Mike. Just one more extra spark and all Gladys is on fire danger.