Lmackattack

I can't clearly see 1 and 2 3 is your radiator hose from the top of the radiator and it Most likely hooks back into the water system down Near the oil cooler hose exit. 4 is your clutch cable.

For reference I was able to pull a non turbo 711 and quad box out of my B model With a skid steer. It was barely able to do it but I got it. That being said and knowing what I know now I would have used a larger machine. Hope that sheds a little light

Great price. Hope it's in good shape. Looks to be about a 216- 220"wb. Not bad for for a old show truck.

Most trucks I drove (besides a 5 speed)you kept your rpm up at 1800 and when it falls back around 1500 downshift. At some point you will find a gear that it can hold at 1600-1800. This is the rpm I like to pull at because it keeps EGTs down and of I have to let out of it I can drop a few rpm and then pick it back up. Now that being said 1200-1400 is where most diesels make their most torque.but they also make higher EGTs down there.

I was going to say the same thing. Get a reduced elbow. It is 5" at the turbo and 4" at the end of the pipe. Simple solution . That being said the reducer will be the most restrictive part of the system. Think garden hose...water only flows as fast as the smallest hole allows being pushed by said pressure behind it. Regarding 4" vs 5" And turbo size. It really does not matter how big or how small ( physically) a turbo is. The important part is what's inside. A larger turbo can flow the same amount of air as a smaller turbo but with less restriction or boost. However of you go to big you get turbo lag. If your making 37 psi your doing very good. If anything I would do some tests with your current 4" exhaust. Remove the muffler and see if it runs better. If it does your muffler is restrictive or you have too many bends in the system. If you do get the larger turbo Try a 5" pipe with an open exhaust routed under the truck.do a few tests runs like that. Then hook up your exhaust with the 5" into 4". If the boost is the same with both tests than you don't have a restriction issue with the 5 into 4

Also no white steering wheel?

Looking at the bumpers I would speculate they are not Hayward built. I thought most RS/RL seam to have aluminum bumpers. Thoughts?

I think it was said the RS/RL 600,700 and superliner were hayward Mack's. The superliner replaced the 700s and thats when the RS/RL700 westerns stopped prodection. When Hayward closed they moved its superliner and RS,RL 600 production to PA and the RS/RL600 was then re named to valueliner? One question I wondered was what was the last year for the FS/FL did they move production to PA as well?

" oh crap "

Great looking fleet.

http://www.google.com/search?q=turbo+exploded+view&safe=off&client=safari&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=0C3YVLeYMsW1sATNu4C4DQ&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=672#imgrc=URzJwn8LTuyoOM%253A%3BqdzdGbxfqOdhfM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.turbododgeparts.com%252Fassets%252Fimages%252Fturbo-exploded-view.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.turbododge.com%252Fforums%252Ff4%252Ff19%252F761665-smoke-coming-out-tail-pipe.html%3B600%3B849 Hopefully this link works. It's a exploded view of a turbo and you can see the 2 bearings that look similar to yours. How your turbo failed can be a clue to how the bearing got down in your pan. I'm still surprised that it was able to make its way to the pan if this is what we are looking at. Most times the large parts of the turbo stay contained inside the center section. At best you get shavings and chunks but not the whole bearing?

How thick is that bearing? Maybe a photo with a nickel or penny next to it for a size reference? If its 3/4 od that is rather large for it to be a bad turbo bearing to slip thru the drain tube. Do all three fit together to make up a 360 degree bearing.? Can you pull the valve covers for a quick look? I dbout it would fit down the oil drain passage but it's an easy inspection before you go digging more into the bottom end.

I think im getting old because besides my love affair with 6 and 12 speed macks the only other trans im leaning towards is an automatic? I have driven them all and for a work truck i Never thought I would have said that

It should have Mack's automatic power divider. When wheel slip is detected it locks in. Or if you are stuck let the clutch out and stab the brake pedal a few times to get it to lock in.

I can remember as a kid always seeing rustys RS700 running around town. I didn't know Al at the time but saw him and i think the gmc in the picture as well. You guys must have passed my neighborhood 3 times a week. All running with each other. Then for a while I saw a deep red sterling running around with some of those same trucks. I actually painted a model of rustys truck as a kid because it was so different from the other Mack's around.

I will admit that even tho it seams more drivers these day prefer Paccar trucks. they don't stand behind them as strongly as Guys that own or drive a Mack. I never hear owners of Freightliners or wester stars talk about them they way Mack guys talk about their Macks. It must be in the blood?

Thanks Joe. Yes I see that the spec sheets have those basic Dims. I'm just hoping that there may be full detail drawings that someone put their hands on. If not that is a great start Larry, Yes This is going to be for 1/14 scale R/C trucks. I will keep you posted on any news. Vlad, I asked him about scanning a smaller version of a model. I think it is an option altho with his abilities a drawing would be more precise and he seams a wiz on the computer.as their are not that many large scale B models that look correct.

a Friend that makes 3D printed plastic was asking if I know where to find any line drawings that show Dims and measurements on the cab and hoods offered for B model Macks. Anything such as BBC or overall width can help but higher detailed stuff would really be helpful. If not I can take measurements off my Truck for him. Thanks for looking Trent

S swing W wide I its a F f@$king T truck! S Sure W wish I I F finished T training

Norm and His wife are a pleasure to chat with. I have visited with them a few times when I was out in his area for work. Always loved to see the new Mack's he gathered. I would try to spend a afternoon with norm just talking trucks when ever I passed thru. I need to give him a call as I don't travel anymore and likely won't see him again.

The roof on my RS700L was rotting around the rain rails. I removed the roof skin by drilling out the 200 spot welds. I was surprised when they told me to glue the new roof skin back on. Cross my fingers it sealed up tight and no rust yet.

My RS700L has 5" straight stacks with 5" elbows that reduce to 4, under the cab. Clearance is tight between the frame rail and cab. Your superliner will sit 1-2" higher than my truck so you might be able to squeez 6" elbows but it will be tight and you will want to check the air ride cab movement to be sure it will work.

Al , Was did it have for power?

Looks real good!

That's why I was asking!!!.....hello friend. I did not know this was you! LOL...truck looks great. All those parts looked like something I have seen before was wondering if you had bought a kit From someone but I guess you went right to the source... The details were all there I started building my western you sent me a few years ago But got held up after moving. I also want to get the correct frame for it. Keep the pics coming!