Lmackattack

Thinking of installing 2 load lights on the rear wall of the granite I drive. Looking to remove the current light seen in the picture and drill a hole to recess a load light in its place Then do the same on the driver's side. Hopeful I dont need to remove the cab back interior as I can feed wires thru from outside. Are there any braces in the rear wall structure that prohibit cutting a hole in these part of the cab?

If you are staying local with your truck and you have a mack dealer near you, you will be fine with mack rears. If you are over the road you might consider eaton or Meritor simply for parts availability when out on the road. Also If your truck has a dump bed or other body mounted to the frame know that mack rears have to come out from above where others can slide out from under the truck. that can make a big diffrence in servicablity reasons. If you do go with mack rears I strongly suggest to avoid going with Macks automatic powerdivider. Get a manual power divider and manual full locking main diff so that the truck has good traction with the air ride. Mack rears are good but I kinda lean towards off breed just for parts cost reasons. Mack seams to be the highest price for parts out of all the truck mfg out there. then the parts shortages that seam to come with Mack. not sure if other mfg have the same issues but I know Pete never had issues getting me parts where Mack often did. Im in chicagoland so We have just about every dealer ship around here plus parts warehouses

I have noticed that as well. No one can tell why some may have it and others dont.

the springs are definatly thicker than my 34k. the no transverse rod has me scratching my head. I thought 38k and above used them? this truck sees only a few hundreed miles a year and I have no clue the history of it.

And while were here can you ID the rear rating? It looks like a welded axle im thinking 38K?

Thanks Guys the mechanic put them in. and the bottom caps seam to tighten down fine on the spring. I have seen most of the 38k and higher camelback have these installed but the younger mechanics said they never saw them on the Macks they worked on.. This truck is kinda odd as mack doesent show them on the build sheet and the rears look like 38K or heavier but I honestly dont know what rating they are. It doesent have the transverse rod which I thought all 38k and above had at least one rod on the rear rear axle? I do know the aluminum caps dont use them but I think they were only used on 34K camelback like my 77' western has

This truck did not have the black t.Blocks in the end caps. We bought an atro kit that came with them. Is it safe to install the t blocks To help prevent side to side movement? Some of the mechanics said they've never seen them.However I have. This is on a roll off truck.

How hard is it to convert from an automatic mack power divider to a manual activated power divider. 2002 CV713, 4.17 mack rears on mack air ride. The current auto power divider does not engage. Truck has 155k and its already worn out. It gets stuck leaving paved gas station parking lots if you stop on the apron. Don't even get me started how it does in the easy basic off road. And fyi 😎 I'm not interested in hearing why the mack automated power divider should work good. In a perfect world they work great.However, we're not in a perfect world. This is a dump truck and it should have reliable traction be it spring or air ride. Every spring ride mack i have driven or owned with the auto power divider failed prematurely or was out performed by a manual activated divider on air ride. Thats why I would like to know if its just swaping the input housing and its components and cutting a new drive shaft length or if a thru shaft has to be replaced as well. Thank you

Well im at it again. My passenger door Is on the fritz again. Another New latch and new catch. Thats twice in 10 years and the truck has only moved a handful of times. It was like this when I bought it and has never improved even with new parts Door shuts around frame perfectly but I only get one click and then it rattles like crazy. If I slam the door it might rotate the latch to get 2 clicks maybe once out of 50 trys but you have to slam it and then it won't open unless you bang on the inside with a rubber mallet. I have tried adjusting the catch in the door frame but it only gets worse the more I mess with it and then the door can pop open when driving because again it only gets one click and not 2 when shutting it. I think my catch was not installed in the door frame when this truck was new? What can I possibly be missing?

I think my water pump is slowly dying? Weep hole is wet and I hear a whine that keeps getting louder the longer i run it.,So I figured I'd replace it as the current one was bought used 20 years ago. I plan to rebuild it but for a test I bought this pump on Amazon for about $150 and going to give it a shot. Hope to install it next week and see how it holds up. RAREELECTRICAL Water Pump https://a.co/d/9S2YtW2 Just wondering if anyone has used these with any luck.

I currently have a factory reman 631gc50106x Is there a modern replacement Turbo that will work for my application. I would assume there is a more efficient turbo to replace this old dinosaur

Haven't gone out to the store yet. Was going to pick your guys brains first to hear any real life opinions on the cl75 or any other options I may have

If they make a better modern clutch that simply replaces a CL75 I'm all ears. But just don't want to have to swap flywheel or other expensive parts if it's just to get a higher rated clutch if it will never see more than 1200 ft lbs

I have not considered anything because I literally know nothing about what clutch fits or can be retrofitted. I'm just trying to keep it simple as this truck will never see more than 285-300hp. I just want a bolt on and go. If there is a reason to swap flywheel I will but if it's not necessary I wont. I

I want to order a new clutch for my 77. It has the 285 maxidyne with a rebuilt 12 speed that i will be installing soon. My build sheet says it had a CL75 when new. Engine is original to the truck. What clutch should I look for?. I know nothing about them besides how they work. Thank you

That 2 piece grill was used on early RS/RL 700s with the hood that was not as tall as the later RS/RL. Basically a R700 style hood where the tire to fender gap was very obvious. The later model RS/RL hoods had lower fenders with taller hood sides thus reducing the tire to fender gap. These had a single piece grill. The bar in question held the hood from flexing outward because the aluminum grill was not as rigid as the later single piece grill. The 2 piece grill was on a hinge so the hood could tilt. I suspect they moved away from the 2 piece grill because it was not as sturdy. Heck even my late model RS700 hood with single piece grill will allow the hood to flex when opening in the wind.

anyone know the size of the rear hub cap used on mack axles? I think they are different than Eaton axles?

Anyone watching it live on youtube.

Let me know if it falls thru.

I will add my .02 Mack camelback is a off road suspension. I never understood why mack kept pushing to sell it to all buyers use when most other truck builders pushed their buyers to air ride. Air ride is not just better for driver comfort but it also dont beat the truck to death either. The E7 in my opinion is limited to a vocational engine by todays standards. they were reliable but once the E7 moved to electronic they were just gutless . thats probably why they were so reliable becase they were weak on power and thus seam to last longer. sure they will do the job but just not as efficiently as a big bore cat or detroit can. "no replacement for displacement" The cab over parts will pretty much be a junk yard hunt so dont expect mack dealers to be of much use. If you want a good solid nice truck look at years 2000-2007 Pete or KW. pre emission trucks with Cat 3406 or C13, C15 power. you pay more for a cat but I feel you get what you pay for. parts are still available for both truck and engines and you will be better off in most situations. I love my old macks but I dont think I would ever buy a newer mack. this is after company driving them and seeing how dated they are in the HP race and the difficulties it is to get some basic parts for them. When I drove a 2002 pete it was always a breeze to get parts from the pete dealer. not so much for a 2007 mack. And someone asked about Gregg Hoffman and his MH. he is still driving it but it has a Cat in it now I think Ray parked his MH and is driving for Walmart now for the Insurance. Have a good one

I have not looked behind the dash for the plug. That was one of my questions as if they would build the dash harness with it set up for a power window even if not installed I will check the fuse panel to see if it has a slot available

how difficult is it to swap from a manual to power window. Im just intrested in the Passenger window for now. 1) will the power regulator bolt in the stock door shell? 2) is there a special wire harness that can simply plug and play between the door,dash harness and the dash switch? Thank you

If you want mack rears and you currently have eaton then a complete axle swap is going to be cheaper in the long run. only thing to check at that point is if the axle tubes are the same size to accept any parts that clamp down on them to hold it to the suspension. My opinion is to stay with eaton. far easier to get parts for these days. 20 years ago id dissagree with my current statement.

🤡Get your popcorn ready and lets all have a laugh.🤡 NEWS FLASH.... it will be a re badged Volvo but this time "Mack" (if you can still call them a truck company) will even share the same cab with volvo. the stupidity of truck Mfg these days is impressive.

Sold my B75 yesterday to a nice young Gentleman from Easter KY. It was a cool old truck sitting up higher on a 78' R model Frame. but it had frame issues and I just didnt have the time to giver her what she needed. The kid already has a good western star frame with air ride rears and I think he might swap the B75 body and engine over into his good frame. This Truck has a 285 Tipturbine with a 5 speed and 3.87 rears. R model Steering and steering column that made it a breeze to turn. If had not been running since late october but we got it fired up pushing it with a cat excavator and he drove it up on the trailer. first time I had started it in winter temps and it was not too dificult all considering I was pushing with an excavator and had no speed with it. It was refreshing to see a young man with intrest in the old Iron. even brought his grand dad with him for the 20hr round trip. sad to see it go but hope this young man can do more with it than I can. Great guy if you know him heres some photos I took yesterday