Lmackattack

If its the same engine I just posted about in a 2005 granite im currently in. I feel your pain. Probably the slowest truck I have ever driven besides my 65' Mack B model.

Friend sent me a Marketplace link to it last week. We went and looked at it last tuesday and I made a deal for $2300. Title says its mfg by TN&C. I have never herd of them but looks well built. Its basicly rust free and a solid deck. Bulkhead is removable. looks like it was sandblasted and painted recently. 4 new parking/service cans, new shoes, hoses and valves. but the brakes wont release. I think its just dirt dobbers? Will need to troubleshoot that but im sure its easy. It will need some new tires but thats about it. Pulled it home today.

After driving all sorts of old trucks. I can safely say that a truck with air ride tends to hold up much better than a truck on spring or beams. my thought is that if you have air ride with diff and power divider locks you will be able to do the same job 99% of the time and the truck/driver will not be abused as much. I use to swear by Camelback and auto power dividers until I drove a few trucks on air with manual power divider and diff locks. the air ride trucks did much better with the locking rears. it was a eye opener for sure.

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Twin Y ........ also known as, Why did I buy this and Why didnt anyone tell me not to buy it. hope you find the parts I hear they are not a popular item that is in stock

nice build. I love building this kit. Probably built 8 of these over the years. I still have most, others were gifts to people I worked for. 8 years ago I bought 6 of these kits and they are still all new in box in my bacement. I bought them in case they dont release them for a while like it use to be years ago. seams they are much easier to find these day tho. As far as the real truck I drove a few Mack 6 wheelers with a plow. what a beast they were. dont hit any curbs because you will remove them. The plow trucks today are more forgiving.

first check if one of the 3 bolts is loose. there is a gasket and or sealent used to seal it to the Engine. Dont forget to make sure the metal tube that directs oil to the compressor is there. But the bigger question is why is the crank case under that much pressure? check your breather tube to make sure its venting.

https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:VA6C2:8514a9b0-d0b5-4f41-b644-5b8fb227c70e If i'm understanding you correctly. You ran a seven wire cable from the firewall junction block to the rear end of the truck frame. My R model. only needs 4 wires to the rear of the truck

I might be mistaken but I thought the frames from a RW700 were the same as a CL700? I have not owned either so someone other than me please confirm

Thank you for looking this up.

I listed the vin tag in the first post. I have not looked for a hp tag on the engine. All I know is these were originally to be sold to ABC building supply but the deal fell thru and they got a good deal on a batch of these after the frames were shortened for use as a tractor.. I'd suspect it was built as a cheap low hp fleet spec truck design to Hau maxl 50k gross.

I recall that thread now but I was not driving this truck back then so I was not following it closely I got to the end reading it. seams like a wealth of info to improve these engine......and have to ask, what did Mack Technician do to be banned? Did he ever return here under a new name? Thank you

Thats how this truck drives. It has nothing down below 1350 and not alot after 1900. To drive this thing I try to rev it out just past 2000 rpm because with this 10 speed, when I make my up shift the next gear goes in at 1350-1400 and it will be in its "power" band. It just struggles to accelarate. I did 5 loads in 10 hrs 230 miles total the other day and it burned 82 gallons of fuel. thats 2.8 MPG. horrible!!!

Thanks for confirming I have one of Macks Worst Engines LOL. From the sounds of what your all telling me. its doing perfectly fine for what it is. SAD!

I think I was at Walcott 2005? and thats where I remember seeing it. It might have been the superliner but I just cant recall

AMIs??? what is that????

sounds like its backfeeding the air. If the check valve is faulty that can be a reason and likely a cheap part to throw at. Im not very good with air brake systems and on a old truck who knows whats been changed. like wise you can test the check valve to see if air flows in the correct direction before replacing it but it might just be smart to replace it simply because of its age Just another thought I remembered. I had to replace a dash valve 5 years ago on my R model because it was leaking. the valve just failed because of age well.

I think the revolver knob was given to me by Rob Swallows (BMT member "Rob") Its been on the truck for 20 years but I have a hard time remembering yesterday

It definantly looks like the piston is missing from the shaft. the spring looks to be in the released position as that spring pushes back to release the Power Divider when air is exhausted.

Thank you!!

I recently started a new job driving.a 2007 Mack Granite tractor pulling a end dump. 73k one way empty on the way back. This thing is getting horrible fuel economy. I'm getting on average, about 3MPG daily. The truck is a gutless wonder, and because of that, i'm full throttle, most of the day just trying to obtain and maintain 40mph speed limits. The lightning bolt is illuminated on the dash and people are telling me it's because the fuel gauge isn't working. Not sure.If that's the reason so i'm wondering Is there any simply way to read the code? Or am I looking at the Vin? Can you tell me what engine/hp rate it is. I feel sorry for anybody that owns these junks. The other trucks in the Fleet seem to suffer from the same poor mpg and no power. An old R model would run circles around this p.o.s

from what I can tell in my search to see if my 1977 285 tipturbine was ready for a Mack dynatard or if I had to find a jacobs brand. If you engine was built before 1980 or 82 (cant recall the exact year??) your engine tag needs to read ENDT676"B" for it to have a dynatard cam factory installed. If there is no B in the Engine code you likely do not have the dynatard cam factory installed and you probably need a Jacobs kit instead. I do not know if the jacobs brand kit would work with a dynatard cam.

there were tons of them out in California hauling two 2 single axle pup dump trailers. they have some weird weight laws out there making this a common set up for them

a little bondo and it will be straight as an arrow.!!!!! Cool Find of a rare Mack model.