Lmackattack

Looks like it will do what you need. Is the 110psi is needed to hold it up or will 50psi do the trick?

Merry Christmas Rob...stop in more often!

Merry Christmas

my 285 tip turbine puts out 23psi under load.

always good when someone with common sence can understand a situation and make it right. If I can share a good company story..... 3 weeks ago my Garage door failed. I called Chamberlain customer service and gave them all the info explained what it was doing. they walked me thru a few steps and told me of 3 possible issues and that they could have a tech come out or if I wanted to dive in I could do so and when the issue was found to call them back. being mr handy man I had found the issue in 5 mins. a plastic gear on the motor had failed. it was used to note the motor RPM. I Called them back spoke with them and told them what I had found. This gear was part of the motor assy so kind bulky but withing 5 mins they informed me they had the part dispatched in the warehouse and would be on the way that afternoon free of charge being that the garage door was less than 6 years old.

It would be RWSXXX or RWLXXX to note a superliner with a 13 digit vin.

its possible I guess but the cap should let off any pressure built up be it water or air. What is the rating on the cap? if its too high other parts will let go before the cap bleeds off pressure

damm.......not being a smart ass here....But is the radiator cap venting off excessive pressure like it should? I would think you would louse water first thru the cap before it pops the radiator.?

There were a few diffrent ways they built the western R models. takes a little bit of looking at the hood , air tank and battery box arrangement to see the differences. I notice them more as people are posting pics of them on the internet. What really throws me thru a loop is all the export stuff as they look like a normal R model from far but sometimes very different when looking up close.

Being a 1972 it should have been a early style hood, I cant zoom in but it looks like its a early hood without the dropped sides. the clue is that the wheel to fender gap is larger than seen on the later style RS/RL700Ls

From the trucks I drove it sounds normal to me. as long as it does not go over 1050 I would not worry about it. also depends where the probe is. most are after the turbo.

never noticed any differences in the sides of a +3 cab. Did you restore that truck? or Is it possible that when it was restored that it was modified? or aftermarket panel was installed?

Does the truck have straight rails or are they flared out like a standard R model?

If its like my 1977 western its bolted to the outside of the rail. Just pull the pitman arm off, slide the steering shaft off . remove hoses and unbolt it?

I know coal traffic is way down on the Railroads. started shortly after OBozo took office 9 years ago and forced coal fired plants to shut down with EPA crap. The railroads then started shipping our coal to China for them to burn and send the fumes right back over us...so tell me again how did we save the planet? not to mention how many jobs lost and people out looking for work from his clueless actions.

most times it found it was the striker or door latch not adjusted right. but if left to rattle over the years the hinges needed to be replaced due to the slop in them....the later style latch was a better design in my opinion.

The railroads tried hydraulic transmissions in the 60s.

dont do drugs

the article was started in 1950 and finished in 2017 due to the complex chicken scratch writing. Must take for ever to write a book over there...???

I can see air brakes becoming a thing of the past on Electric trucks if they advance building on them. I can see weight savings being a major issue with the added weight of electric motors on all corners. A electric motor can act as just as good as a Air brake all depending how well you can control them. they may even have better stopping power if every wheel, including trailer wheels were powered.At that point why even have air brakes ? One thing I have not heard any one talk about is if its feasible to build a electric truck like how a Diesel electric locomotive is. I would like to know if there is any benefit for a truck to have a smaller diesel that powers a generator that make on demand electricity to move a fully loaded truck over a highway. I dont think trucks that we see it are going out of style any time soon but my grandfather once said to me that he came in to this world riding a horse and buggy and 90 years later had watched us put a man on the moon and people living in space ....

Correct. I guess what im trying to say is that the detent ball and spring had to go "home" all the way when the rod was installed in the cover. So in the perfect wrorld the rod should be able to push the detent ball back up as its pulled thru the large notch. (That is unless the bar needs to be turned 180 when ever installed to avoid this issue?) I do wonder if that large notch was large enough for the spring and ball to fall out as he said? only way to get it back in is to turn it upside down an start shaking it while saying a prayer.... I lent my mack book that the museum sent me to a friend, I wonder if it went into detail with top cover repairs?

I have no first hand experience working with the detent of this top cover but I do know with other gear boxes that you have alot of leverage when using the gear stick. what seams tight by hand will be easy when moving the stick thru the detent. Are you sure you cant force the detent back up in the housing by hitting the rail with a dead blow hammer or by pulling on it with comparable force when using the stick. Reason I say this is that the detent had to get in there before the shaft was put in so it should force the ball up if pulled hard enough. Unless im missing the something?

only thing it needs is a heated seat!

next you are going to tell us that volvo made the seal so it only can be installed from the inside..... LOL