Lmackattack

Looking for the shift knob / air selector for the air shift Mack12 speed. If you have one and its for sale let me know. thank you....

There were 2 different versions of 2 stick "5 speeds" The early version had Reverse and 1-5 on the main. the Hi / low was on the aux stick. this was a over drive transmission. The later and more popular was the 2 stick 6 speed direct. it had 1-5 on the main and Low/direct/Reverse on the aux (compound)stick. both of these boxes had a married aux box bolted to them.

these new trucks and downtime.... I dont understand it. hope you get it fixed soon

In the picture FreightTrain posted the Oil filters are shown below the turbo charger. Same location on the photo of your model engine. And yes the external cowl mounted filter/luberfinder seen on some Mack Westerns was an added option. Lets see more of this model you are building... I really enjoy the detail in your builds. hope all is well

Got mine proudly hanging in the house. Its only a copy print but its something I always wanted as a kid after seeing one hanging in an office at a Mack Dealer visiting with my Dad

That is absolute disgraceful if that is Volvos position. I bet they are worried about the truth being spoken? However I dont see how Volvo can stop him from writing a book. Glad to hear that. I hate reading yet I find his writing style enjoyable

I will have to look for "bulldogs" I was not aware of that one....

I have heard people talk about it but could never find one. The other week I just searched for it and saw Amazon had a few listed for around $15-20

I just picked up this book from Amazon. By far one of the best books with information on Mack and its history up to the 1970s

Congrats and very nice old Mack

Paccar has that extended rear cab panel. Its not a roomy as this but it has the behind the seat room most day cab drivers would love. only issue I see is that backing up view is obstructed some

Seams railroads use Wood or concrete in specific parts of the country. What works in the south does not work as well in the north. Last I read about them was that there was no real cost savings to run concrete as the life span and maintance was not any better. The one thing that was better with concrete ties was that they offer a more solid attachment to the rails than say spikes.

As Ksarbel said .. No, the 300+ (315Hp) did not come factory with a 5 speed behind it. I see many owners and for sale ads comment in error of a 285 or 300 Maxidyne listed as a 300+.

when I worked at UPS back in 1997 I loaded a few Ford trucks that looked just like this. They used these trucks to deliver to Commercial addresses that see large volume of packages each day. The truck was all over the map picking up and dropping off to company's that would otherwise overwhelm a normal package truck.

does this truck have a torque limit switch on the transmission? Not sure what the technical name is for them but I know some trucks lock the engine from full throttle in the low gears.

Will it get better. I hope so but likely you are in for a ride. I would not trust any of these new trucks as far as I could push em. I hope you just found a few simple mistakes and it makes you money...Keep us posted

glad its back home and out from under ATHS

was it a former concrete truck? Tri Drive? super singles?

the military has become a special market. Besides tractors that the military needs just to haul around civilian style trailers. I cant think of many Class 8 makers that have a specific chassis for Military. Its almost like Fire trucks of today (USA) Just about every fire truck is Specific to itself. I always thought that was a bad idea as if a City had a fleet of them they are all different and nothing really interchanges but What do I know.

I barely use Paper...why the hell would I use E log? When Im tired I sleep when Im awake I drive or do as I feel...Seams like a lot of over complication to me.

Dont see many mid 80s R models with the roof mount AC unit. seams most were the underdash style

Guy I work for puts in fuel additives in all his machines almost every other fill up. only thing I notice is im changing fuel filters all the time as its dislodging gunk and clogging filters. I think most of it is rust in the tanks as many of them just sit over winter. So i cant say that the additives are helping or not but I sure seam to change them pretty often.

If the Tank is low and the filter and pump is high I suspect its sucked air in and you will need to add oil to the filter and try and get it to prime again. To me it sounds just like a fuel pump on a Mack where you need to fill the fuel filters when you install new ones or you likely louse the prime on the system. you should know when you pull the filter if it lost prime by how much fluid is in the filter. another suggestion is to intorduce some air pressure into the tank to try and force fluid up into the top part of the system. I have primed a few trucks the same way I recently replaced both hoses on a Track motor in a excavator. The owner ran it out of hyd oil trying to crawl it up to the road and out of the mud. I was able to replace both hoses Refill the tank as it had ran dry. and within 10 seconds the track motor bleed itself and started to move again. Mind you this is a completly different machine but It did self bleed. the only difference is that the tank sat higher or level with the the pump and the air in side the track motors were lower than the pump. This worked to my advantage. Good Luck with it. Trent

sounds air locked. Pumps will go bad if ran dry but you likely would have had to starve it for a long time. as soon as it runs dry you cant move it so unless you let it idle for a long time after that I think it would be ok? only way to remove air is to bleed it out like on a car but most times the system will self prime as you work the control valves. Can you look inside the hyd tank when its running? if you can look for air bubbles and that is a good sign that it needs to be primed again. if the tank is full try and move all the functions back and forth with a line cracked open a little to see if air or fluid is escaping.

is that the 3 piece front engine cross-member? I would just unbolt it and have a welding shop plasma cut you out a new one, then drill the holes. might be cheaper and faster than finding one used.?