Lmackattack

pull your head out of the sand...

Was the "cool power" a slogan for the air to air charge cooling or did it also refer to the air/water charge cooling? I have seen most tip turbine refereed to 285HP but there were versions of the charge cooler that had the water cooling added to it. My truck has a 285 air only but I have a spare charge air box that has the water set up. I was thinking of installing it but I dont think it would gain me more HP without other changes to the engine?

I recall some R models intorduced in gold for promotion but I thought that was the 300 maxidyne in the late 70s early 80s? the pics of them were posted on here before

I think that was the owners name. I have never met him But Al said the guys name was Rusty. there was also a 3rd truck that was often seen doing the same rounds. I think it was darker colored White/GMC?

I have told you this before.... I remember that truck when it was fairly new. You were running past my house in Buffalo Grove many of times along with the Orange,yellow and black RS700L.

If all of your bearings have these issues after just a few hours run time I would say you are looking at a oil pump or oil flow issue. where is the oil gauge plumbed into? if its close to the pump it will tell you it has good pressure but it cant tell you if other components are seeing that pressure further into the oil system. If the pump is giving you good pressure than it must be sending the oil to a major internal leak. fluid flows to the path of least resistance. if you have a major leak inside the engine the pump will push 90% of the oil to that exit path and other components will starve. for example if this engine calls for piston oil coolers but they were not installed, major oil flow will come thru this passage unrestricted where other oil passages will see a trickle of flow with little to no pressure behind it. oil flow thru a crank needs solid pressure as it needs to feed other bearings. If your rods and mains have failed but the cam bearings are ok than start looking for a blockage or internal leak in the block. most engines running at idle can safely run very low pressure so long that all components are getting pressure. some may recall the old Detroits that would only have about 5-7 psi at hot idle and this was factory spec. even at this low PSI it was safe if all bearings were seeing it. when you get this engine rebuilt again I would suggest priming it with oil with the pan off to see where oil flow is escaping to.. you may need to block off the oil coolers (if equipped) but it will hopeflully show whats getting oil and what is not. one last thing. I have seen a few failed engines where the heavy use of gasket sealer during a rebuild (oil pan gasket) caused blockage in the pump and thru the block. the pump chews up the sealant and pushes it into the oil passages. just another variable to think about

put a block of wood under it and it will be fine. wider the board the better but it will support the weight.

With that example, yes it is a possibility. Again it all depends on what route you are on. Another example that up until a few years ago was that some states still had a max gross weight of 73,280 lbs and others were 80,000 lbs. this caused all types of issues as you could be on the interstate at 80,000 lbs and be legal. jump off that interstate and you were over the legal limit. Some states you can gross more than 80,000 if you have the correct amount of axles. Way too many examples to go on with but as you can see states can make up their on weight and length laws. its up to the company and drivers to know all these laws.

Many Truck owners just like the look of extra frame rail between truck and trailer. its not practical by any means but it is a trend. they also tend to ride better when the rear wheels are further away from the cab. Or a truck was set up with a long WB to haul special loads that would over hang the nose of the trailer. Many state have different laws regarding overall length and weight distribution. 5th wheel location can be moved to help accommodate these laws. its vary rare that you will find a 5th wheel slid all the way back. In recent years some states have started to copy other state laws and make things a little more consistent. most trailers I have pulled we just kept the 5th wheel about 6" ahead of center of the tandems. this was a safe bet to keep the front axel weight at or below the common 12,000 lbs weight limit. Most Van trailers also have tandems that can slide for and aft. again some states have different laws regarding how far back the trailer tandems can be based on the weight of the truck. this is why you might see some van trailers with the tandems at different locations. its also why many flat bed trailers have spread tandems. No real simple way to try to explan it all as each state just about has a different law regarding weight or length. East coast states had more length and weight restrictions. It was common to find short WB trucks out east and long WB trucks out west. You can also see the trend with sleepers back in the day. East coast were small and west coast they were larger.

Went to Mack today to get some primary and secondary fuel filters and a coolant filter for my R model. They brought me out 2 Mack brand fuel filters, both gray with some unknown part number on them and a coolant filter from Carquest. Said the Mack green and red filters are no more. The coolant filter was not Mack branded, it was a Napa or Carquest number?... and of course one of them did not fit. This used to be so simple. Thanks Volvo

Agreed on the pay shortage... Some of the guys I have spoken with that haul freight for the big companies are always commenting how they are sitting more than moving. With the ELD laws and unload appointment Bullshit that does not help either. How can a trucking company expect you to sit at a shipper or receiver for over a day and not get paid for the day. A delay is one thing...but when a truck hits the dock it should be unloaded or loaded in the order it arrived at. if the dock is busy you wait. if not unload and go. if they are not reasonable consider it a refused load... I could not haul freight with all the stories I hear about sitting around without pay

About 15 years ago the old Celli Mack here in Chicagoland had a parts trailer out back with 5 of them fiberglass hoods stacked on top of each other. when they tore the building down all the old trailers went to scrap.

they installed a stud with a heli coil in the tank. they used some form of hi strenth glue/sealant to the stud / heli coil so it wont spin. where the old bolt had punched thru inside the tank they ground it clean and put a weld across the area of the hole to build it up and seal it off. looked fine from what I can see with the bottom pipe off and was cheaper than a new bottom tank. I had known this tank had a issue as 8 years ago as it started leaking from one of the bolt holes. At that time I just pulled the bolt out and put pipe thread on it and put it back in. It held all those years until the core started to leak at the bottom last month. hope this fix will prevent any further issues.

But I am correct in saying there were only 2 styles of latches used? when did the current style latch come into play? I have seen some that were flawless. I replaced the latches but not the catches...will see if I can still get them and try that first we must have the same issue but with diffrent style latches. My drivers side door works ok but I still have to push hard on the outside button to get it to open. the passenger side I have to use the palm of my had to get it to pop and from inside I cant even open it unless I try to rip the handle off the door

Yes I have well written book of all its maintenance.....in fact Its all on the internet if you know where to find it!

My R model doors with the old style latch keep giving me hell... Is it possible to convert from the older style door latch to the new style? I see you can easily swap over to the new style latch on the door panels but the new style striker looks like it was revised to mount in the door frame?

Got my Radiator back today. The shop was able to save both upper and lower tanks and put in a new core. they converted the lower tank to a stud mount as suggested. I was able to install it late this afternoon and fingers crossed it wont leak at the studs.... I will need to source some new rubber bushings for the upper mounts as they are dry rotted and cracking off. I had used rods and the rubbers off of a retired 87' R model when I converted my cab to air ride. (best thing I ever did to this truck) I did away with the X brace that previously held the top of radiator to the cab cowl. Took about 2hrs to re fit the radiator in and get the hood back on. not bad considering this would take a full day on these modern plastic trucks.

Looks like it has 4 too many axles ....

Secret decoder for any car,truck or motorcycle for sale ad "by owner".... sneaky dealer "have not tried to start it".... it wouldn't start no matter how hard I tried "ran good when I parked it".... it died "can be made street legal" ..... it can't be made street legal "have not ridden it much"..... owes years of DMV fees "out if the DMV computer".... owes years of DMV fees "bill of sale only" .... stolen "classic" .... junk "collectible".... junk "vintage" ..... old junk "restoration candidate".... rusty "project" .... time suck "mechanic's special" .... money suck "import".... parts orphan "rare" .... was never popular "street fighter".... fairing destroyed in a crash "previous owner dropped it"..... I dropped it "must sell"..... will never be sold at the laughable price I am asking "testing the waters".... hoping to find a bigger fool "don't waste my time".... but allow me to waste yours "serious buyers only".... one joker at a time "Nevada tags".... not legal in California "many new parts".... JC Whitney "head turner".... missing muffler baffles "will trade for '67 Corvette, Shelby Cobra or '80's 911 Turbo"..... I smoke meth

https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/donaldson-m085171/muffler-4-in-4--out-p-w26-m085171

that was a very common size for a R model. Any Truck parts store should be able to order one for you in not already in stock???? Did you try mack? they had deals on aftermarket stuff from time to time.

Dropped it off at my local Radator shop today. (Rex radiator Bensenville IL) The Owner knew what kind of mack it was out of before I could tell him . He Even guessed the year right (1977) He said he did alot of these out of valueliner cement trucks and cruise liners. suggested going to a stud mount if he can save the bottom tank.he made mention of going to a 4 row instead of the current 8 row to save some $$$ not sure if I want to do that in case it ever gets a larger engine at some point of its life. he will be getting me pricing on Monday for a re-core and the lower tank mounting hole repair. stay tuned Trent

Finally had time to pull the Radiator out of the truck and get the lower tank off. As suspected both holes were punched thru into the lower tank. In the pic of the inside of the tank You can see the 2 domes where the lower water pipe bolts to to keep thats how the mounting bolts holes should look.

Early superliners had the steering box on the front axle. down side to it was that if you get in a wreck and the axle gets pushed back it can sends the steering shaft into your chest. I recall some truck MFG have the steering box located to the rear of the front wheel on the out side of the frame? not sure how that linkage would be but its an option I guess? I have also seen some R models where they had a steering box on the inside of the frame but the input shaft of the steering column was pointed more upward. it then used a 2nd set of U joints to make the extra bend in the linkage... not sure it that would work for you?

I would be looking for a lower tank if its too messed up to fix. Thanks for the offer and Yes, I will keep you posted . thank you Trent