Jump to content

Jack Innes

Puppy Poster
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

18 Good

About Jack Innes

  • Rank
    Truck Nut

Profile Information

  • Location
    Brooklin, Ontario
  • Interests
    Early cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats & newer horses

Previous Fields

  • Make
  • Model
  • Year
  • Other Trucks
    1920 Paige, 1929 REO, 1919 White, 1920 White,1938 Terraplane, 1969 Ram military prototype

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Jack Innes

    Wood Hoist

    Wood specified medium weight hydraulic oil & ISO 68 is a little heavier than a modern "medium" weight. At about 40 degrees F. it puurs about like heavy pancake syrup. ISO 100 is not common around here & would obviously be thicker. The drive shaft & control shaft both have rope seals that should not leak if tightened properly - much more forgiving than lip seals. If all connections are sealed there should be no leaks. Loctite makes a very good thread sealer.
  2. Jack Innes

    Wood Hoist

    I had two sets of fittings, one has a 45 degree taper & a thread that is slightly larger & coarser than JIC fittings. These use 1" hydraulic tubing with flared ends. The other set that I used has a rope packing under the nut, again using 1" od hydraulic tubing. These have a small flare on the ends to keep the tube in place while tightening the pack nut. To use these I turned the od of 3/4" black iron pipe to 1" & turned the id to about 7/8" for about 3/16" to facilitate making the flare - carefully with a hammer. The turning needs to be done before bending the pipe. I have used ISO 68 hydraulic oil which is noticeably thick in our current weather. My pump was not in bad shape & I overhauled it myself. I think any parts would need to be made. The main wear was on the replacement side plate where the gears ride. I had it ground on the surface grinder used for cylinder heads & flywheels. The gasket thickness is important - measure your old gasket. Mine was .006 thick. Something to check on your pump are the bosses that contain the gear shafts. I have 2 spare pumps in poor condition, one has a cracked boss that has been brazed at some time & the one on the pump pictured leaked when filled with oil due to the same cracked area. I think water has accumulated between the end of the shaft & the casting causing a frost break. I was able to salvage an un-cracked side plate & hopefully it will be ok. You would be wise to have your pump Maganfluxed .
  3. Jack Innes

    Wood Hoist

    Thank you both for the replies. By enlarging & scaling the pictures it looks like the cables are 1/2" diameter which fits well with the sheave as Jim suggested. Is the flyer mentioned on line somewhere? I found the attached chart that answers the mysterious relation between gear oil, engine oil & hydraulic oil. Medium weight would be in the range of ISO 68, SAE 20 Crankcase & SAE Gear 80. I can now speak with my oil supplier to see what is available. Thank you again for the help. Jack
  4. Hello, I have the Gar -Wood hoist ready to install on the MACK AC & have 2 questions; 1 - What type & viscosity of oil should be in this unit? The lines are 3/4" pipe & it has a gear pump 2 - What size of cable is usually on such a hoist? Thank you, Jack
  5. Jack Innes


    I took the shift lever apart again & discovered that the brass ball should move on the shaft. Mine had rusted in place. Once freed & lubricated, the up & down aspect returned & the spacers were not needed. The shifter now works almost like it should. Went about 1/2 mile today successfully. All gears work fine & returned home without any trouble. (Still need fenders!)
  6. Jack Innes


    Thank you Mike. I just went for a trip to the end of my lane & managed 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear without trouble! When I had the clutch & flywheel out to install the ring gear I did clean & set the clutch brake to the clearance in the manual. It is doing its job & makes shifting easier for sure. The power brake even works!
  7. Jack Innes


    I put temporary spacers under the shifter casting & now I have reverse! Knowing where reverse should be certainly was a help. Since the lever is permanently in the down position, the idiot proof aspect is lost. Hopefully my idiot tendencies can be trained to not shift from 1st into reverse. I think part no 10 AC-13 is what is missing, the parts book illustration looks like a gasket but it must somehow connect to the spring?? Jack
  8. Jack Innes


    Thank you for the comments. Mike, Thank you, that tells me where to start. I think something associated with the spring is missing on mine. The spring has nothing to act on & therefore has no effect at all. The lever is permanently down but will lift up a bit. When you push down does the round collar on the lever end up under the large casting? Maybe I need a spacer if that is the case. Jack
  9. Jack Innes


    I have been working on the 27 AC most of the summer & now the engine is free, new valves installed & running well. The clutch is freed up & adjusted. It now has a 12 volt starter that came from a Cat Diesel & a John Deere ring gear - that also works well. The cab has all new panels & is permanently assembled & mounted firmly as original. The rad is reconditioned & mounted- no leaks (so far). Today was encouraging in that the truck moved under its own power for the first time in at least 50 years! Today was also the first run with the new exhaust system - I now know I need manifold gaskets - any idea where to find them? I have an embarrassing question- Where is reverse??? I have 4 speeds forward but cannot find reverse. I still need fenders, name plates & a rad cap plus many small parts. Thank you for any suggestions, Jack
  10. Another AC question; Today I removed the clutch from my AC in preparation toward adding a ring gear to the flywheel. On loosening the bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel a wire came out of the space between the two parts. This is about .100" DIA. & makes a full loop of the flywheel. Is this normal or is it a spacer added for some reason? With that in mind, how thick should the clutch lining be? I have some extra AC clutch plates that look to be NOS - the friction material measures .260" while the one in the truck measures .200" wit no appreciable wear showing. Thank you for any assistance, Jack
  11. I just found some numbers on my AC engine crank case. On the horizontal machined surface by the magneto there is BC12-36 ( the - is a #1 sideways.) On the vertical surface below the magneto 411A62 is stamped upside down then a long space then 33 right side up. Do any of these make sense to anyone? Thank you, Jack
  12. Great pictures, thank you for sharing! Jack
  13. Jack Innes

    AC parts

    Carey, message sent a while ago.
  14. Does anyone know an interchange or source for valve spring washers for a MACK AC? These have a straight 1/2" bore & the spring ID is 1 1/4" I also still need fenders, side light brackets & other small parts. Thank you, Jack
  15. Jack Innes

    AC Mack coil.

    A little more research; I think this is the coil inside your case. Myers Early Dodge parts has new units for $225 http://www.myersearlydodge.com/image.php?ws_page=ignition.php&ws_image=MVC-823F.JPG

Welcome to BMT!

...The world's best antique, classic & modern Mack Truck support forum! Founded in 2000, BigMackTrucks.com is the place to go for everything related to Mack Trucks!


BigMackTrucks.com is owned and operated by Watt's Truck Center, New Alexandria, PA. This forum and it's contents are not affiliated with Mack Trucks, Inc. or Volvo Trucks North America.