Jack Innes

I agree that it would likely have been easier to have a fender made but the truck is being returned to its last used condition, not a shiny trailer queen. The other fender is now repaired but shows its age well. A new fender would stand out as new even with some aging. The fenders are the domed style that were used from around 1926 onward. My left fender is original to the truck & is domed & the truck has always had hard rubber tires. There are many other parts on the parts truck that will make the 27 better as well as a rust free cab that hopefully someone else needs.

In my search for a right fender for my 27 AC 5 ton I have bought the truck pictured for the fender. The frame no. on the truck indicates it is a 1929 3 1/2 ton. I am currently working on delivery, the truck is 2500 miles away. Has anyone come across an AC with an auxiliary transmission? Could it be an overdrive? This is well fitted to the truck but not factory. The truck also has had a different engine installed that is long gone. Thank you, Jack

Wood specified medium weight hydraulic oil & ISO 68 is a little heavier than a modern "medium" weight. At about 40 degrees F. it puurs about like heavy pancake syrup. ISO 100 is not common around here & would obviously be thicker. The drive shaft & control shaft both have rope seals that should not leak if tightened properly - much more forgiving than lip seals. If all connections are sealed there should be no leaks. Loctite makes a very good thread sealer.

I had two sets of fittings, one has a 45 degree taper & a thread that is slightly larger & coarser than JIC fittings. These use 1" hydraulic tubing with flared ends. The other set that I used has a rope packing under the nut, again using 1" od hydraulic tubing. These have a small flare on the ends to keep the tube in place while tightening the pack nut. To use these I turned the od of 3/4" black iron pipe to 1" & turned the id to about 7/8" for about 3/16" to facilitate making the flare - carefully with a hammer. The turning needs to be done before bending the pipe. I have used ISO 68 hydraulic oil which is noticeably thick in our current weather. My pump was not in bad shape & I overhauled it myself. I think any parts would need to be made. The main wear was on the replacement side plate where the gears ride. I had it ground on the surface grinder used for cylinder heads & flywheels. The gasket thickness is important - measure your old gasket. Mine was .006 thick. Something to check on your pump are the bosses that contain the gear shafts. I have 2 spare pumps in poor condition, one has a cracked boss that has been brazed at some time & the one on the pump pictured leaked when filled with oil due to the same cracked area. I think water has accumulated between the end of the shaft & the casting causing a frost break. I was able to salvage an un-cracked side plate & hopefully it will be ok. You would be wise to have your pump Maganfluxed .

Thank you both for the replies. By enlarging & scaling the pictures it looks like the cables are 1/2" diameter which fits well with the sheave as Jim suggested. Is the flyer mentioned on line somewhere? I found the attached chart that answers the mysterious relation between gear oil, engine oil & hydraulic oil. Medium weight would be in the range of ISO 68, SAE 20 Crankcase & SAE Gear 80. I can now speak with my oil supplier to see what is available. Thank you again for the help. Jack

Hello, I have the Gar -Wood hoist ready to install on the MACK AC & have 2 questions; 1 - What type & viscosity of oil should be in this unit? The lines are 3/4" pipe & it has a gear pump 2 - What size of cable is usually on such a hoist? Thank you, Jack

I took the shift lever apart again & discovered that the brass ball should move on the shaft. Mine had rusted in place. Once freed & lubricated, the up & down aspect returned & the spacers were not needed. The shifter now works almost like it should. Went about 1/2 mile today successfully. All gears work fine & returned home without any trouble. (Still need fenders!)

Thank you Mike. I just went for a trip to the end of my lane & managed 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear without trouble! When I had the clutch & flywheel out to install the ring gear I did clean & set the clutch brake to the clearance in the manual. It is doing its job & makes shifting easier for sure. The power brake even works!

I put temporary spacers under the shifter casting & now I have reverse! Knowing where reverse should be certainly was a help. Since the lever is permanently in the down position, the idiot proof aspect is lost. Hopefully my idiot tendencies can be trained to not shift from 1st into reverse. I think part no 10 AC-13 is what is missing, the parts book illustration looks like a gasket but it must somehow connect to the spring?? Jack

Thank you for the comments. Mike, Thank you, that tells me where to start. I think something associated with the spring is missing on mine. The spring has nothing to act on & therefore has no effect at all. The lever is permanently down but will lift up a bit. When you push down does the round collar on the lever end up under the large casting? Maybe I need a spacer if that is the case. Jack

I have been working on the 27 AC most of the summer & now the engine is free, new valves installed & running well. The clutch is freed up & adjusted. It now has a 12 volt starter that came from a Cat Diesel & a John Deere ring gear - that also works well. The cab has all new panels & is permanently assembled & mounted firmly as original. The rad is reconditioned & mounted- no leaks (so far). Today was encouraging in that the truck moved under its own power for the first time in at least 50 years! Today was also the first run with the new exhaust system - I now know I need manifold gaskets - any idea where to find them? I have an embarrassing question- Where is reverse??? I have 4 speeds forward but cannot find reverse. I still need fenders, name plates & a rad cap plus many small parts. Thank you for any suggestions, Jack

Another AC question; Today I removed the clutch from my AC in preparation toward adding a ring gear to the flywheel. On loosening the bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel a wire came out of the space between the two parts. This is about .100" DIA. & makes a full loop of the flywheel. Is this normal or is it a spacer added for some reason? With that in mind, how thick should the clutch lining be? I have some extra AC clutch plates that look to be NOS - the friction material measures .260" while the one in the truck measures .200" wit no appreciable wear showing. Thank you for any assistance, Jack

I just found some numbers on my AC engine crank case. On the horizontal machined surface by the magneto there is BC12-36 ( the - is a #1 sideways.) On the vertical surface below the magneto 411A62 is stamped upside down then a long space then 33 right side up. Do any of these make sense to anyone? Thank you, Jack

Great pictures, thank you for sharing! Jack

Carey, message sent a while ago.

Does anyone know an interchange or source for valve spring washers for a MACK AC? These have a straight 1/2" bore & the spring ID is 1 1/4" I also still need fenders, side light brackets & other small parts. Thank you, Jack

A little more research; I think this is the coil inside your case. Myers Early Dodge parts has new units for $225 http://www.myersearlydodge.com/image.php?ws_page=ignition.php&ws_image=MVC-823F.JPG

I think you will find that pre 1926 Dodge Brothers cars & Graham Brothers trucks have the same North East 12 volt coil. I can check the part no. on my 1925 DB if it would help.

Mike, I would be interested in speaking with Art Cooper on the starter conversion. I may have an MT40 starter in stock. Jack

Thank you for your kind offer on prints. I would certainly like a copy of the valve prints & any of fenders. The earlier style fenders seem to be on a lot of ACs & they would be simpler to make. Prints on the boxes on the running boards would be helpful as well. I do not know how the message system works on this site but if I can figure it out we can make arrangements for payment & addresses, etc. I had contacted H&J Machining earlier today & they have returned my question already - a very good sign. They have blanks that can be made fit the truck. Jack

I just finished pulling an intake valve out & found that it is essentially the same size as the exhaust valve. It is in useable condition so I will likely just need the exhaust valves. I found Toledo part numbers on both valves; in. T307, ex. S290 (the 9 could be a 0). So far I have not found any listings for Toledo valves. Jack

I have been assessing the engine now that it turns over & have determined that #4 exhaust valve is burned, the other 3 cylinders have compression. It looks like the clearance was set too close, probably causing the valve trouble. The seat has been replaced & looks retrievable. The pictures show the tool I made to remove the valve plugs & the gear reducer I often use to run in rebuilt or long sitting engines. Sometimes problems show up at 30 rpm that would be destructive if the engine was started. Does anyone have a current no. or replacement valves for the AC? The exhaust valve has a .490" dia. stem, 2.25" dia. head & is 10.4" overall length. I have not removed an intake valve - are they the same size?

Thank you. Original style would be good but I am having difficulty finding any contacts for reproduction AC parts. Is there something I am missing? Jack

Another question; My exhaust pipe is 4" diameter , what would be the outlet size of the muffler? Would it be OK to use a modern 4" in, 4" out truck muffler? Jack

My engine has a flat boss on the driver's side with 4 tapped holes to mount the starter & the shroud around the flywheel has a lump that would allow the starter to fit by the ring gear but the hole for the starter has not been cut out. I cannot see the flywheel but am not very hopeful that there is a ring gear. Jack