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I second that!

I have run across the main air line that feeds the spring brake relay plugged with goo causing a slow or no release problem just another thingto look for.

That is quite normal for these engines There is a crank case breather kit avaliable to help with that problem.It moves the vent from the front of the engine to the valve cover where it belongs anyway .

E9s started out red then robins egg blue then gray beleive it or not!

Change the clutch cable!The clutch cables can feel fine with no load on them but once loaded they become stiff.

If your unit is shutting down on low coolant high water temp or low oil psi both lights will light eml and the shut down light. Bad sensor on any of three sensors or a bad wire.We set all of our customer engine to NOT shut down on low coolant. its easier that way only two choices. Both of which will show on gauges.

The fuel pump is the most common! loss of power blu smoke and stumble. If ya got a parts truck remove and replace block check first the pump should put out no less than 60 psi.

Its likly one of 2 things the check valve at the out let of the block Or the fuel transfer pump at the front.If I was a bettin man my call would be the transfer pump havig said that if you have any filters with plastic bowls on them eliminate them from the system first!

Depending on how it was kept Basicly Bullet proof!

fLYWHEEL PTO To remove you will need a new clutch a new input shaft and bell housing!You will odviously have to relocate the engine mounts.

The econovance is electric over hydralic it runs off oil preasure!Start the engine it should stutter and stumble till the oil preasure comes up then clean up if its not doing that the econovance solnoid is likly fubar!You need a pro link or computer to watch the timing . Simular post to yours http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=9600

Mack E-7 350. electronic governer ????If so you may have a econovance issue.If not electronc try running the engine from a pail of clean fuel it may be sucking air.

As stated gasketsinch, I have found this method to work well ,apply Two coats to the lid two coats to the gasket let it dri between coats stick the gasket to the lid after a 10-15 minute dri time assemble to a clean oil free surface.silicone is an absolute no no.

Good find Curt Nice to find easy stuff one and awhile!

Second to last pic! Remove the fuel line from the injection pump elab valve and crank it with the line off in a pail its likly not the pump but if its working it will show ya. your positive you gutted that elab valve ????? take the wire off and tape it up! When you turn the key on you should hear a faint click in the rear of the fuel pump if your like me and cant hear get someone with good ears to listen. Check the ecu fuse or breaker for power. Also Don right around or below the washer bottle the there is a rectangle plug that goes to the fire wall have seen that plug get wet inside look for the green stuff in there! Ya need a 1/4 or 3/16 inch socket to take the plug out! Also temporaraly jump over that ground fault on the fire wall just incase One mor thing i thought of is there is a diode in the fues panel far right that can cause greif some times. it looks diffrent than everything else in there.

I will tell ya one thing the Compressors are not the problem!Does the blowing oil happen under load? if so four places to look Turbo for sure good place to look after all you have done the engine over! Having said that is it making oil? leaking injectors or bad transfer pump can cause fuel contamination flooded engine case!!!! over full ?. bad rings , valve guides! Compressor at the bottom of the list. Keep us posted on what ya find!

The econovance solnoid is likly fubared ,take the econovance block off and remove the allen head plugs from the sides and inspect for little screens inside if there are screens behind the plugs remove them and reassemble and retry runing the engine. remember to buy a new gasket before disassembly.If this dosent fix it the sonoid is likly had it!you wil have to buy a new one.

Don did you nail this down.Please post your fix so others can benifit.

Mack Diffs ???? Try locking the power divider out!

It sounds electrical to me if it just up and quit with out sputtering!If it sputtered to a stop you will likly be looking at a transfer pump. mounted on the side off the fuel pump . remove the round plug going to the fuel pump and look at the the plug itmay need new pins does any of the holes look to be brown from geting warm.Also there is a ground faultbreaker on the fire wall black rectangular box 2x three in size jump across that make sure it hasent failed.

Why was the drive shaft out???If it was that is a possiblity!If your having a shutter at aprox 40 mph 6 and seventh check the ride height!

Don is there a valve on the front of the fuel pump with a wire going to it?if so remove the guts of that valve and reasemble!? question two do any of the accesorys work heater fan ect when the key is turned on does the check engine light come on then go out! if not you have a bad acssory relay in the dash under the cup holder 4 screws and your on top of it.If you don't her a clunk in the dash when the key is turned on its likly the relay even if you do it can still be the relay check it has power coming out when the key is on ,the heater fan should run if its ok. Check this stuff and get back. Fred

Have your ride height checked possible drive line angle problem!Clutch replaced? flywheel ground? The vib you have is likly unrelated Unrelated to the engine in my opinion But you never know!

idle stop yes. you were told it had a miss? Do you hear a miss?

If you got a 460 it should be putting out 35 psi or so boost. check for exhast leaks at #no 4 exhast port comon is a broken stud there.Check for boost leaks clamps hoses and after cooler can be suspect.There are lots of difrent things that will cause low boost on these there is a boost by pass tube with a check valve that blows off at 20 psi or better if that is fubar it will cause boost to build slow as well!The valve is mounted at the top where the air enters the engine.Air cleamer is clean? Check this post out for the fan thing may or may not be related http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=9183 the guy that posted that used to work for mack and is a wizard with the electrics I wish he would hang here more often but I think hes had his fill of Volvo politics!