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Can't be done find a fuller rto for it you'll thank your self

I think you will find the ecu runs the engine brake directly on this era of truck! no relays! Is there power showing up at the valve cover? also some newer stuff didn't let the brake work till oil temp reached 150 !

The the transfer pump can be an issue ! They do fail! also check the tank vent!

Yup Post your fixes so others may benefit by your gained knowledge

Dynatard was run from a relay via the governor housing no clutch switch! You will need remove the wire at the dash switch and run a wire from the dash switch down to the pedal switch and back to the wire that you remove from the dash switch! Im not sure if it operates to ground or is powered however this should still work for ya!

You and everyone else! If your pulling any kind of weight with these older trucks your up for endless issues ! VGT Crap is just one of many issues!

yup amen on that one! Post what if anything you find When you get done then people can send you in the right direction!

16 inlet 24 exhaust 15 on the jake

first try cleaning the flywheel sensor by the clutch arm! then Try replacing the cam sensor the front of the engine at one point there were issues with the front cover of the engine flexing!

Did you Try what Glenn posted? That will show up any leaks you have even if it was a compressor I have seen em dump boost out the air drier under certain conditions ,not often but have seen it!

You will have to rewire the whole truck change the engine and vehicle ecu But if your good at wiring go for it! anything is posible if you got time and money otherwise that year would not be worth the effort!

Is it a constant poping noise? Can be caused by broken lifter .broken rocker bolts, broken rocker shaft or bent push tubes!

Good advice Glenn. Good explanation too ! most Guys just check the cooler and that aint enough .Check the whole engine and get the whole story !!! A common leak is the the compressor inlet on some of the engines depending on how its plumbed !That wont get picked up by testing just the cooler! And put 30-35 psi to it more is better! So What trans do you have?

Glenn in my opinion It is a little low I believe 25 to 30 wouldn't be out of the way for a 400! First IS the gauge correct? Next are you trailing smoke while pulling? If so! If you have a a pyro it should be staying around or under 1100 deg max when pulling if not check the air filter and check for boost leaks ! If you have a 18 sp Mack trans unplug the torque limit switch at the rear upper range cyl see if this helps the situation!

These dash panels weren't the greatest the dash panel printed circuits break over time!

Oil Is Cheap How much blo by do you have?

YOU NEED TO RUN THE TWO TOP ORINGS the third oring can be used but is not necessary if you study the injector a bit you'll see that it doesn't mater if you use the bottom one its sealed at the tip by the steel washer! all of your injectors Should have a return hole that didn't change till early 2000

Yup What he said !

As said THEY Need common Rail !However The Volvo way the dollar store way! Keep working with what you have just patch it over and add to it! Also as mackpro stated and is correct the injectors rattling around in the cups doesn't help things , Do away with the plunger and part of the problem will likely Go with it . OR (Keep doing the same thing over and over you'll likely get the same result!) who knows we May not even have to use the (magic ) sealing grease they require to install them. Sorry! I Just don't get the mentality ! Why not use some good old Mack straight forward ingenuity !

IF This don't work your pulling it back out to find out why! By the way you need to turn the engine a 1/4 turn and do tap each pedestal on the clutch

Providing you surfaced the fly wheel and the inner hub is not hitting the bolt heads on the crank! OR ( Clutch plates in bacKwards) You need to check these first!! This is how I Would proceed Set it in this order! 1- set the clutch brake Make sure the release bearing touches the brake about 3/4 of an inch off the floor ! 2 - the set ring in or out to get 1/2 to 9/16 gap between the throw out bearing and the brake you should now have 1 1/2 free pedal 3- if your still having issues turn the engine till the clutch bolt pedestal is in the window of the bell cover there is a hole in the the middle take a punch or bolt of the correct size stick it in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer this will center the dowel pin on the intermediate plate see if this helps!

Unlike the dollar store fuel line fiasco trucks catching fire became safety issue, No one will tell them the HAVE To fix this or else! Its not a safety issue yet ! It really is to bad, the base engine Seems good . (my opinion) however If They would Take the time to redesign the head properly! AND TEST IT Properly! ,they would likely have something to be proud of! Not that pride has much to do with anyone's product any more! $$$$$$$$$$$$ But Instead they continue to patch the patches!

There is a air fan set up available for some models Check with your dealer

Another Band aid ( Remember the old fuel line feasco on the grey engine when they changed to the dollar store fuel lines ) Aluminum foil over the line was the first patch up! This is similar! Why totally redesign when we can patch! cheap asses

well needed a wheel seal anyway! Good Find! Dam lucky Find as matter of fact