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Sorry I missed your post been busy !You need to find the valve set marks on the fly wheel peep hole at the bottom, also your engine will have a slack spot where the dynatard lump is I beleive there is a small depression at that spot to allow the slave in the rocker to charge your probably landing on that spot,Seting on valves rocking is not the best on these engines.

Apparently the M/V Drive trans has been a staple in Europe for years , having said that I to am a doubting Tom,

You had a code for no#1 EUP Which is now in number two! Correct? You need to put that origanal no 2 pump back in its hole as it is calibrated for that hole and either replace the eup or replace the injector!Remembering you had a code for #1 eup. My opinion!

You need to feed that dog more!

It may be a bad injector To check which hole breifly short out each unit pump one at a time untill you hear the knock go away. If you find its,eup 1 Replace unit pump one! But note the cal code on the side of the new pump as it needs to be installed in the computers brain at a later date by a Dealer..\ It may be a bad injector Also check the pan plug for brass I have seen several trucks of this era with the odd bad wristpin bushing.

Chuck give the EGR valve a tap with a small hammer see if that wakes it up any! I wondered when I saw your post as you are creating the same situation as pluged cooler with a block plate!I bet the egr valve is sticking open.Have 68 put the truck on the advanced display in the OLD VMAC PROGRAM It will tell ya where the EGR valve is at If its a more than 50 % its stuck open.The other possibility is the turbo vanes are jaming or linkage is sticking!

Good find Originally on most of the R models the trucks came plumbed with 1/4 braid from the filter head to the fire wall then plastic to the gauge head I hope ya got the fix there,Kinda bad timimg for a burst line.

Train I haven't followed what you have done to this engine other than the housing so forgive my ignorance !BUT there is somthing I ran across some time ago , have you looked at the compressor I ran across one of these that the compressor had babit ( WORN )style bearings on the crank and it caused the engine to have low oil preasure.

I have seen em go 30000 hours in a dump application look at the hours not the miles You can easy see 20 -250000 on average .

Good engine ,the best model of truck to have , Last of the stand up oil changes!.

Yup you'll have to knock grand of of the price with that program on there It devalues the real estate .

Ada boy! :thumb:

We just cork off the egr cooler lines in a pinch no need to recirculate.

Thems good numbers ! the point is these sales people don't quote real world facts all the time ,put the two engines side by side do the same job in the case i state low bed heavy haul and compare apples to apples.IF a guy has the work Most of truck payment can be made with the fuel savings in some cases ,BUT we have to add in all the variables!

Yup that is a terribly important statment we have several MP10 running now and there are gains in fuel milage to be had over the ISX egr engine BUT did we take into acount the cost of the urea?The Mp 10 is geting aprox 5.3 mpg doing the same job as the isx at 3.6 mpg But are we adding in the cost of the additive That I don't know! Lets get the real world Facts out there people!

Yup look after the air filter then !Remember A good performing 500 v8 is 28 to 32 psi With a stock turbo you start wailing 50 psi your moving lots of air! 600 hp is easily pulled from these With a tweak but the wrist pins are the weak point .Watch your oil changes for brass on the pan plug! If you see brass be carefull Maybe sample your oil once and awhile!

I would ask the question Why? What model is the truck !CL? RW? MH? So having said that if the truck is a RW I would highly recommend putting 2 air cleaners on it if it is a CL I would find a bigger air cleaner and put it on it! With a turbo moving that much air the air restriction will likley be real high even with a clean air cleaner! I have seen the elbow at the turbo become sucked flat with a semi cloged air cleaner and stall the engine momentarily( with engines that have been tweaked Fuel wise).RW with under the hood air cleaners and CL models are subject to this condition. What I am getting at is air restriction may be causing the oil weep in the first place.

Chuck! Did it throw any codes? If not the egr valve can cause stuff like that with no codes Also the VGT can stick !Usually with a code thou. Try lubing the little lever on the turbo with some Penetrating oil see if that helps! Next time your by the shop have 68 stroke out the turbo to make sure its calibrated or holding it's calibration.

Yup we swap Fixes and stuff Makes us look like wizards to the mortals! Unfortunately looks can be deceiving.

does it crank at all? When you turn the key on does the dash lite up if not then you likely have a bad relay the accessory relay/s are generally mounted beneath the ashtray panel on top of the middle dash. Or depending on year inside the glove box panel to the left side. Also if you have had lots of rain in your area look behind the passenger kick panel ( 4 screws) look for a smaller looking black box (Vehicle ECU) I have seen leaky windshields cause these to fail unplug the box and check the plug for green connections just some stuff to look for! Good luck

Check the end of the rocker shafts and make sure there are plugs in the ends they tend to pop out on these engines.The valve set likly has no connection to your problem!

Flywheel bolts ! 180 Head bolts 220