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Heres one ya want to buy it ? http://www.truckandtrailer.ca/inventorylist.cfm?pageaction=viewitemdetails&intProductID=68983 We bin bitchen for a couple of years to get our sales guys to get on it and they finally did Now all we got to do is sell it! I beleive its a pricing issue and the logging industry isn't what it was! Althou with the price of fuel on the rise these new fuel efficant units may becomeworth the money!

Usually you can see if there is fuel coming up the injector it will be sitting on top or comong out the injection line threads..the only place I can think of that this can happen excluding a crack in the block some where is the injector sleaves in the head! With such an odd problem that your having I would be inclinded to try some of stop leak products NOT BARRS but say dyke or Alumaseal the Barrs tends to plugg everything radd heatercore ect the other products are less agressive I have good luck with Alumiseal.When Desperate!

Do you have a fuel heater on your truck?

Glenn I,m Still kickin around! The fourm is well served by the guys that attend here! I have been busy with Other stuff thanks for the honorable mention thou. if ya need anything just pm I do checkin from time to time!

I beleive there is some politics going on with allison and there is no available Mp10 M drive in vocational apps yet So if ya want an M drive in a dump app you can't have it If you want it in a tractor you can!That is straight from the rummor mill

Your seting it fine if you are setting on the v/s marks ! the loosness on the other valves is normal ! It has to do with the cam being ground for the dynatard application this cam is used irreguardless if a jake brake is installed .I don't like your method of yoke set!I hold the yoke straight down tight, turn the yoke screw till it contacts then turn the screw 1 flat of the nut and spike it tight! just another way of doing it I guess! If the book says ten thou then it must be correct.

We are not having any sensor issues that I have heard the Mp engines are doin just fine !The EGR SCR seem to be thought out and working well as a team ! Im at a point I can say that I beleive Volvo Done good for Mack And I was A ney sayer when they took over! the only real issue is the 7th injector it apears to have to be serviced every once and awhile and the flex pipe that is between the injecter and the Cat can crack the system can not tolorate leaks, NO LEAKS PERIOD!

Yup keep it simple we all know there is enough rubish on these trucks as it is.air assist is complicating the simple. hasler hit the nail on the head with his coments

A derate will throw a code if the check engine light is coming on there should be a logged code. If not its likely something the puter dosent know about that but thinks is normal like the puff limit switch! Having said that the throttle pedals have been known to glitch once and awhile with out throwing a code. And also the fuel pump pins at the plug can give ya 50 fits at times ,try unplugging the big fuel pump plug and put it back together 1/2 a dozen times and see if this changes the operation.The key off and back to normal thing makes it sound like a derate.

Bro what horse power is the engine ? The boost your making is what 400 hp engine would make ,What trany is in the truck ?What boost was it making before you started having problems. 34- 38 being average for a 460 480 engine

I would suspect the fan hub by what your discribing

Possibly at the injector tubes! Yuo may have to pull the injectors to pressure test!

The torque limit wires would have to short together to cause this problem unpluged the unit becomes in effective.

There is a wire that goes to the torque limit swithch on an 18 speed trans it may be shorted it will cause the engine to have half the boost of normal. it is usually routed down and around the same area as the speed sensor pu wire.U claim to have a 12 sp and not used but even so the wire will still be there check for it.

OK That works !I have one more reqest if possible can you put a forum change box with a drop down at the bottom of the pages haveing to go back to the top to switch forums has always been a pain!

Barry my only real bitch is that the sign in takes you to an new account screen I already have an account Could you put a seperate log in button for us guys that already have accounts? I also liked to be able to choose my own skin! Stanless is OK but in explorer the white on gray is hard to read! In firefox its fine!

45- 55 fp torque down chris cross in smaller increments can't hurt to set the valves on an engine that old ! 16 intake 24 exhast! 55 pounds on the injector screw Snug the screw then loosen a bit, then tighten the injection line and then retorque the screw and properly tighten the injection line.This helps aline or seat the line to the injector to prevent leaks. Good luck

There is a small cover center bottom of the fly housing 6 bolt or 2 bolt cover depending on year remove it turn the engine in running rotation and alin the V/S Marks to the center of the peep hole and set the valves in firing order 153624. v/s 1&6 - V/s 5&2 - V/s3-4 Valves rocking on 6 set 1 valves rocking on 2 set 5 and so on!

The valve is there to retain a small amount of fuel preasure in the pump for start up! and to maintain a minimum 15 to 30 psi while running!if you have any air leaks from the heads down to the fuel pump you can end up with starting issues.

That Bolt thing would be the icing on the cake alright, That just blows me away to think the place is still in business! Begs to question how could all that happen to just one guy?? Or Did it happen to just one Guy??? Too many of these and you would think he will have no busisness!.He made absolutly no proffit on oil or wages not to mention all the business he looses by word of mouth Bad news all round. Hope you get it all cleaned up bud!

Well lucky you ya got it done twice .Rinsed all that crud out of the pan! What bummer day!

My first thought and relitivly cheap and easy thing to try is repining the vmac plug at the pumpmost mack dealers have the tools for this! Next Check the plug at the fire wall under the wash bottle remove it and check for any green conections and any rubbed wiring! Then I would say ya need to remove the pump and have the govener end looked at by a qualified pump shop! (semi common problem is the rack sensors inside the pump need replacing)! Do the pin thing first to varifi the pin thing un plug and replug the vmac plug a half dosen times then try running the truck for a bit and see if the problem has gone! If it has then it is likly the pins causing you greif! Also when you have the plug apart look at it and see if any of the male ends look brown and heated looking (a good sign of a poor conection)! Just some stuff to try!

I've seen em go as high as 220 no problem ,not saying thats right but have seen it ! Having said that I would venture to guess the rad has not been looked at for quite some time and the fan clutch on these did fail from time to time! So if it becomes a regular occurance I'd be leaning towards the clutch fan or stat's as it has come on rather fast! Unless the shut down comes on I'd not worry to much it may be as simple as a poor gauge or sender.

Thanx for posting your fix!Glad ya found the problem!

On mechanical engines thats the way it is! Normal!