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Your method is correct!However begining of the end for the synro may be premature there is a good posibility that the synco is on its way out time will tell that!I would however check the yoke bolt on the rear of the trans to see if it is tight that can cause the same intermitant patern.

Bad flasher!

If you had the tab centered in the window @ 8 you should be ok to go if it seems alright probably is! 12 is normal idle timing Its running close to where it should for timing electricly the static is what will cause greif it needs to know where to start from. Or if that tone wheel has slipped it will ping and rattle or it will smoke retarded. it sounds like your ok ifits not pingng or smoking.If this all changes with out notice you will have to have the pump checked!otherwise leave it!

The engine needs oil preasure to power the econovance into an advanced timing to eliminate the smoke.

? how are you setting the timing! With what? I have run across engines( fuel pumps) where the tone wheel inside the pump has sliped and the engine does not know where its at!The puter gets its timing event from the plug on the side rear of the pump!the engine should stumble and sputter till the oil preasure comes up then it should clean up!The timing should be set static at 8 with the tone tab in the window where the event marker goes!Apply 12 volts to the timing acuator if the advance if it is working the engine will clean up and run smoother.if it doesent the timing sol is not working.

Serviced ? oil change? You could have a rear diff gone!Ususlly clunks don't come from trans area! or clutch area! Proper clutch adjustment if your clutch brake is set corectly is like this!Open the door of the truck put your right or left hand on the clutch pedal push light ly down there should be 1 1/2 of easy pedal till there is big resistance if its like that then its adjusted correctly.If its instantly hard then its past due for adjustment! Clunk problem !> Have seen steel bud rims crack and clunk check the rims if so equiped! Does the truck have MACK diffs IF so what ratio If 4:17 or 4:42 remove the top side cover of both diffs and look for missing teeth! The other thought I have before the top gear sets is to lock out the power divider see if the clunk goes away miss matched tires will cause the powerdivider to clunk! just a few places to start.

What is wrong with your clutch is it sliping?

It makes the power divider limited slip not the diffs!But Mack also made a differenial with the same set up contained in it!

The Mack power divider is a diffrent animal!It is is a series of piston like wedges with an inner and outer cam as one piston or wedge is forced out when wheels speeds are diffrent one is on its way in the iiner cam is offset it acts as a ratchet or limited slip only between axles.Is a very diffrent thing to try an discribe with out you actually seeing it!Bottom line think of it as a limited slip!

wlcome to the site! E6 engine has dri lners and less stroke than the e7, the e7 has wet liners more stroke and built somwhat heavier than the E6 also all the threading on E7 is metric! The jakes are not interchangable!

Stand down Naw!With out input nobody would get things fixed!Ya need to step up to the plate when ever possible!

Also Depending on where the compressor is plumbed in check the compressor inlet tubes .

The 460 with xt file will produce 40 psi on a cold day and We had seveal customers CLs that would hit 40 consistantly!It was quite common for the compressor wheels on these to pop in half ,that problem has since been repaired thou!

Ive seen it happen on All 4 valves sixes it was most prevelant on the eteck cause of the larger coarse thread studs.

Nope pull the stud out and put pipe sealant on it and put it back in!the stud opens up into the pushtube hole oil is coming from there!

I am going to say Im right!Get new orings and washers for the injectors and replace em!He is right in regard to orings at the line it is metal on metal!Now having said that try what he said to do Back them off and retighten em if it don't work do what I said to do!I have seen this happen lots but you welcome to try the other method it will cost you nothing to try!

If I remember corectly the gear stays in the cover theres a big nut on the front 2 inch or so Shaft is splined to gear. can be done fairly easily can be acsessed behind the ps pump or ps cover block off which ever you have!

Yes, valve covers off you need a 5/16 fine bolt to pull them up and a 15 mm socket and 6 inch extention to pull the plug that holds them in! and the injection line has to be out.

You need to reseal the injectors!Buy 6 oring kits and do em all!

In most cases I''d tend to agree with you hk but if I read right ,its jumping out of gear as well ,a rear end problem would not cause it to do this. I have seen the tail shaft snap ring come off and cause the split not to work properly.

Did you pull the drain plug and see of there are hunks coming out of it? Usually the first thing you need do on a 12 speed with noise problems! the next thing is pull the side covers on both diffs and check the drain plugs there as well!You have already locked the power divider out so thats confirmed! Before pulling the trans pull the side BIG pto cover and look inside check to see that the split is operating corectly and going all the way in!

Oil preasure / coolant overheat and low coolant set the lights off on a 97!If you have the inactive codes check that will tell the tail.

agreed replace the shaft!

Are you working on a VMac engine?If so the timing is controled by the computer!

Good man ,Remember , if it dont run a good as it did before you may have to have the turbo recalibrated by the dealer ,Also talk nice to that guy that your buying the parts from and he may be able to pull some strings in the service dept to help ya along with that part of it!It takes 5 to ten minutes to do and the engine needs to be warmed up to at least 160 deg! The puter needs to measure the stroke of the new turbo to be able to adjust the vanes to the right angle to run correctly.