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Number 20 is the revese piston. Read carfully what I wrote last ! Remove the rear line on the rev cyl with the air shift selector in rev ,check to besure there is no air escaping the cyl thru the fitting or coming down that line.if there is air on the line it may be the shift knob.

Bro ,ID be checking the plumbing as well! When reverse is selected you should have air at the forward port of the reverse cyl No air to the rear port of that cyl (if you remove that rear line there should be no air coming from or going to it! if itscoming from it its leaking inside and needs orings!)Also when reverse is selected you will have air to both sides of the spliter cyl holding the split in neutral.

The adjusting nut that you are refering to was deleted in later years this likly being one of them!If the split doesent center its self you have to shim the spring!When you get to the part in the rebiuld routine where you apply equal air preasure to both sides of the split hopfully you will have no problems. Most times its OK.Also in the tips Rob gave to ya if the shift fork bolts were not tight when you go to loosen them THAT can be a 90% posability of your problem!

No you have to remove the whole module! (Shiftlid) its a breeze on tht model of truck You can have it out of there in less than an hour!If your hving an intemitant revers problem still it maybe the larger cyl causing the problem there is a lock out pin in the lid,If the spliter does not make center for any reason the reverse air shift will be locked out! When you get the lid off check to see that the set bolts are tight on the shift yokes in the lid that is the first check of the day! If one or both are loose remove and apply locktight and re assemble. If not remove the cover of the big piston and check for any rust or broken snap ring.

E7 no side covers is the give away. And mech pumps were offered on lower hp a few years beyond e pumps.

That is compound low! reverse is on the rear shift cyl that looks the same size as that one back shift lid.There is a switch on the dash for that one.

More stuff to try! asuming it is vmac 1 or 2 Not eteck and IF it happens any old time ,also asuming you have no fault light on ,In my opinion you need to have the fuel pump plug repined take it to a dealer and have them put new pins on the fuel pump conector.this very often will cure the problem. next (IF) the problem happens when the engine gets warm Get a bucket of water and pour it over the back part of the fuel pump then try start the the unit if it starts the fuel pump needs to come off and needs internal repairs try these two things first the water trick is the odvious cheaper of the two (IF) your symtom is as discribed. Note This info is provided from the Mack book of hard knocks and is not writen in any manual on the face of the planet to the best of my knoledge..

Agree with that whole heartedly both counts 68.

We rarely see cam failures in my area now and there are still lots of trucks out there! Do a valve set every so often And your good to go!Aint nothing wrong with the earlier etecks! Eteck and egr Well lets not go there!AI engines are still fair !beleive it or not They can be made to pull and get desent milage. But its a secret!

Glen I was sent this by mackcl96 Don't no how true it is cause I never seen one. Hello, Mack did a E6-400 in 89 Mack also had E7-400 90 Mack always said 350 tops on E6 but they wanted to see what would happen at 400HP before they stop using the E6 altogether. It was a probably a inside bet with the tech guys at Mack. I don't know how they made out but if it was not going to work they would have a E7 to save the customer. If your like me you never seen one but dosent make it so. They were few and far between if it did happen.

The serial no for the engine is stamped on the flat spot just in front of the fuel pump just above the top 2 fuel pump mounting bolts!

It is quite common to bore one hole I beleive there were actualy 2 thou over liners avalible at one time and you could hone the hole out to fit em if the liner slid in to easy.

the tp turbine fan is the same concept as the charge air cooler there would be almost no point in cooling the air twice!The tip turbine fan trickles off a little boost preasure to run a small air driven fan that is doing the same job passing ambiant air over heated boosted air same as the charge air cooler .WHY waste the boost.The only small benifit to the TT would be the short distance of the plumbing from the turbo to the inlet manifold vs the 6 ft of plumbing on a chassis mount.A chassis mount can be done to almost any engine in a vehicle. Also Im not sure cause I have worked for mack for most of my life but the first charge chassis mount charge air I saw on a mack came out with the E9 engine.I beleive mack used it first weather or not they invented the idea is another story. Up to that time no oneelse was using air to air it was always water to air.shortly after the e9 Every body started using the chassis mount cooler.

Its not that big of job to do just be sure you got all the parts.

nope its an addon no cam!There were alot of oil preasure issues with the j brake external oil line add ons yada yada!Some times bearing and oil pump changes. What problems are you having.

What ever ya do don't reuse the injectors with out having em tested that likly caused the failure! also check the injector hole for 2 washers!

350 is the max for e6

we have seen this happen with oil sensors as well!All out of warrenty A real bummer! Good luck with a policy claim.

You may have a brokren snap ring in the split cyl!(The bigger left hand cyl)The shift lid has an interlock pin that will hold out reverse if the spliter does not fully go into neutral.If you have to fiddle with the air shift to get an intermitant reverse this may be the case!loose shift rail bolt is another common thing. Go to the dealer and get a rebuild oring kit and tare into it ! The deep reduction is commonly locked out on the 12 speed meaning it will only work in first gear low high split and reverse.

I second that!

2004-2005 year pleged with problems by newer or older 99-2003

Youll likly nailed it with the injection line thing but remove the exhast manifold will likly confirm a wet hole!

Good info 68 we have had no failures of this nature even thou weve had sum broken bolts, but this is good info on the h ring Thanx for posting it!Most of our customers shut the engine down when the poping starts!

Glen That is all because they want the new teck guys to attend law school to learn to read the half assed gobaldy gook they write for the manuals theses days!That Insite program is awsume thou.Wish the mack guys had taken more pages from that book.

Sorry I cant help ya We do have the tool for install at work but have never used it!H rings have never been an issue.