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You leave the intake in place. Remove the air plumbing from the turbo inlet get it out of your way,Remove the cross over pipe that joins the to inlet manifolds together, remove the 6 intake bolts and the exhast manifold bolts and remove the rear section of the exhast from the head you are working on only . remove or pull back the two water rail bolts from the back head(under the intake) remove the valve cover and rocker gear ,woop the head bolts out and the head will pop off!Less than 2 hours you'll have it off.Once there you'll likly find bits and peices inbeded in the pistion thats valve seat, these peices can travel into the turbo so inspect the exhast wheel and stuff closely and if the wheel looks OK back blow the exhast tube on that side!You got the pan off so remove the piston if the liner is not damaged buy or get a used pistion inspect the wrist bushing fo pits or cracking if ok reuse find a good runner head and your back in business!

You likly have a droped valve seat!This usually happens when the engine is shut down ,next time the engine is started it begins to knock! more of a hammering sound! Pull the head off and look!you will likly need to replace the piston, liner Maybe , and head . and turbo if ths is what you find!

Hey guys I'm looking to fine out where the above mentioned solnoid is on the tractor. I just went thru a feasco with not having reverse ,found that a bunch of wires had worn thru on the suction line to the trans ,got thous all repaired but ,still got no 4x4 so I want to check the solnoid and see if it is getting juice . By the way the no reverse thing turned out to be the back up alarm shorted and not any of the broken and rubbed thru wires.So if anyone has any ideas lemeno! Thanx Fred

Have you changed any headlights lately??? be sure you have the right headlight bulb installed, there are 2 diffrent numbers 9007 I beleive is the correct one for your truck! But check with the dealer for the proper number!If you put the wrong light in one side it will cause this.

Hello Todd !I have not messed with turbos to experiment with more boost no answer for that one more boost will gain you nothing with out the fuel to go with it . The Timing could be altered to 22 degrees even as high as 24 degrees BUT I don't know what effect on performance or Life of engine to expect The timing changed as years moved on as emmisions changed. Hint ,On electronicly controled E7 the timing can vary between 12 and 24 degrees So I am making these statments as a guess that the fixed 18, degree timing on yours is a compramize number on a mechanical engine, as for the pyro temp usually taken at the turbo outlet on theses engines 1175 to 1200 max and wouldn't be pushing it past 800 - 1000 on pulls for extended periods! Just my to pennys worth.

Yup center punch it out and cut a slot in it for a screw driver.

A VGT can produce more air than an engine can use efficently.too much air no fuel to go with it! Not that much power in Air!

Yup the bull dog will take awhile to kill, but they'll do it ! My bet ! Within 5 years we should have a V cab.

If it maintains 23 with a full load on the engine and does not drop below 20 id say your good to go But by what your discribing the drop at 2100 does not sound good !I thinK you may have a restriction some where.to test this run a good known fuel line into a bucket of fuel directly to the red filter do your test again see if the same thing happends if the gauge still drops off put the hose directly into your clean pail of fuel from the transfer pump and try again.

So far so good we got 2 lowbed tractors working in my area, they out most everything out there.

(dealers has lots of them still in stock, why?) Wishfull thinking All dealers got lots in stock from what I see. As good as anything else out there In my opinion!There aint nothin out there that I would call dependable or wouldnt be problematic with all the electric rubish on these now!We got electric power windows ,brakes, and now mufflers these days somthings bound to go wrong at some point. Just my two bits worth.

I'm not an advocate of throwing parts at things I would tee in a preasure gauge at where the fuel enters the block and drive it with a load under the condions this happens and try it, if the fuel pressure drops down below sixty then Check the drain back valve on the block make sure its OK then work thru all the lines and check or replace em .If the fuel preasure does not drop then I duno where to send ya, The test VECU would be a though.(Usually the VECU doesn't cause performance problems when it fails) But if this ecu sees a torque limit signal it will cut the engine power some what with no code,if the wire to the ecu from the torque limit is worn or rubbed thru it can possibly cause a power complaint ,But your boost would be effected.And this would be noticalbe all the time.

I twice found a rock stuck in the inlet elbow of the red fuel filter might be worth looking at Causeing a low power thing Again fluctuating fuel preasure UNDER load!What is baffling is the boost the boost is right where it should be!

Sorry wasn't tring to ruffle your feathers just tring to get to the bottom of the problem. So when your pulling your guts out in say seven of 8th is and as the power is going away does the boost fall off as well?Or does the boost drop as the truck slows,you should see boost hang in till about 1400 and then the boost should fall of some and the pyro should climbif its working right ! Just some observations. My thought here is that under high fuel demand the engine is starving for fuel !In the lower gears your fuel demand is not as high once in the hight gears your using and demanding every bit of fuel.Anyway It sounds like ya had some good gurus looking at it so I doubt I can help ya over the net but for what its worth here is a couple of other thoughts a plugged vent in a fuel tank or a partly pluged fuel line on the suction side of the red fuel filter Bad fuel transfer pump the gears on these pumps have be known to fail and slip on the hub the engine will still run but the fuel preasure will be erattic under load. Don't have much to say other than that! Sorry for not bein able to help!

Bro I can't help but feel were not getting the full story here! (4 months ago while hauling a load of logs I lost power in upper gears) does this mean what it says!? you lost pulling power ? or it quit lost battery power ? If you lost pulling power somthing you had but is now gone in the top range Can you xplain the circumstances a bit when and how it happen all at once, during a pull on the same hill, is the boost up or low in this situation, yada yada !.Also what trans do you have!If it is a mack 18 un plug the torque limit switch on the back it may be messing with your mind some ! There is somthing going on here that the puter thinks is ok and I don't know if the guys you been dealing with have checked the peramiters in the puter to make sure all the torque settings and speed settings are opened up turn off or up 100% any derates related to road speed or set them out of reach! The problem you have maybe in the Vehicle ECU not the engine ECU.We can try and send ya the right way here hopfully we can't always fix everything but weel try.

I wonder if your wast gate is stuck closed and your going into derate! is the engine fault light coming on? 33 psi is max on a ccrs engine it will drate after that.

A little more info please! does the engine smoke black under pulling conditions ? Does the pyro climb in excess? What kind of boost does it make pulling.If you have no smoke then Did anyone think to check the fuel preasure ya need 60 psi or better.

Sounds to me you need to have the clutch replaced as Rhasler said splines or the plate springs are falling to bits inside or its simple worn out , by the sound of things it dosent owe you much!Clutch brakes usually don't fail unless there being abused IE : clutch pushed to the floor while rolling in gear , or the clutch haning up inside!

As stated we will be better able to help you out if you give us more details smoke color being the most important change out the air cleaner for starters if you havent done so already are you using oil ? do you have exsesive bloby? You may have boost leaks!

Correct, there is there is also diffrences in the pinion housing depth so you have to be working with the same ratio.

Yes if the engine your replacing has a e6 4 valve engine with the aluminum front cover it's a bolt in fit.

Which bearing failed #1 And Number 8 the rod can be removed from the bottom with out disturbing the heads! pull the crank and have it checked and ground 20 under get 20 over bearings and your good to go as long as you can varifiy you have no leaky liners! Have done this a few times.

I just installed and E7 400 Mechanical into an 84 rd fit like a glove!The mechanical engine were produced till 94 or so thou 350 300 hp were there limitations! I would seach out one of these before going electronic! Much easier install!

In answer to your capacity question If the axle ends are pointy you have 44000 lbs diffs if the ends are flat you have 38000 lbs diffs the 38000 will be a welded housing the 44000 will be a cast housing reguardless of the axle flange. As for this > can i just buy any used rear end and pull out the power divider and air locker and just slap it into place ?Yes! by all means buy a used one.