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For me its easier to pull out my blow tube and pop out the delivery vale than to drag the dam machine out of moth balls!The light thing is ok as long as the tone wheel hasent sliped I had that once I ended up turning the pump by hand till I could see the fuel just start to rise on no 1 cyl slamed the pump gear back in with the engine on the timng mark and it ran fine!

Rob amen to that bro! good luck with it 13 The problem with sending the pump out is that alot of guys hestate to chuck up old pumps to there equipment for fear of contamination of their equipment! Id be hesitant too!Sounds as thou this a play truck so as long as it runs what the hey!

Nope wouldn't do that!Like Rob said TOOOO iffy!Check what you have first! I could be full blawhoee but what you discribe soundslike a timing issue Having said that !! I have never seen an engine like this just start puffing out gray smoke !Its usually a gradual thing if a fuel pump fails. or a miss on one cyl or quits all together.Its kind of a mistery problem you have here.Turbo OK???!

Rob I guess that is what you could call it! We have a rarly used hi preasure timer at work that requires just hooking it to the inlet and pluging off the outlet it builds enough preasure to lift the delivery valves off the seats!I much rather use the above method my self!

you have a real strange problem here alright! I still beleive you got a timing or pump problem!Just by your discription of what happened at the start! To check the timing set the engine on valves rocking on #6( valves closed on #No 1 )pull the engine up to apox 30 degrees on the flywheel or damper pointer marks.remove #1 delivery valve with 11/4 1 5/16 or 1 3/8 12 point wrench on the big nut on take it out remove the spring and valve and reinstall the nut just snug .get some hose to fit the inlet fitting hook it on and blow into the tube fuel / air will flow from #no one keep blowing and have somone slowly turn the engine till the flow stops right where the flow stops is where it is timed.BE sure that the fuel stop is full on and the throtle is at idle for this! this will rule out the timing thing I got in my brain anyway! The bearings in the fuel pump may be on their way out causeing the timing to be all over the place. For the symtoms you have I would suspect to see it at near zero for timing ,the engine should be at somwhere between 15 - 24

go two years newer you will encounter less problems,You will still be stuck with a short list of on going issues!Exhast gaskets every year at least cracking exhast manifolds and cracking turbos cracking egr coolers yada yada All Heat related injurys.The base engine is good the rest of the junk bolted to it how ever?????????????????????????////

The pump coupling is or should be keyed to the pump shaft DO NOT remove the little round front cover in front of the engine and tamper with any bolts if you want to preserve your timimg ,just undo the the three that hold the pump to the block as mentioned the splined coupling has a dowel! the pump will only go in one way easily DON't FORCE it or try pulling it in with the bolts! Apon reassembly assemble with a new gasket the gasket will come with 2 holes in it one big one small!Cut the gasket from the outside of the big hole to the outside of the small oil return hole at the bottom both sides and remove the v shaped peice this will put a stop to any possible oil leaks at the gasket site!DO NOT JUST USE silicone! You'll hate yourself.

What sise is the engine? 237?

Have you checked the turbo and the air cleaner plumbing for birds nests? remove the air intake from the inlet manifold and try to start it! IF that don,t do it then, I got a feeling your pump drive coupling may have broken and its now out of time. You have smoke that tells me you ar getting some fuel, and no air Or poorly timed fuel. I have seen the drive couplings break Usually its clean and wont turn the pump but it may be ragged enough to turn the pump in ths case.

this is AMBAC http://www.adiesel.us/pumps.php Robert bosch Simular to this http://www.alldiesel.com/bosch_pump.htm

Good Luck. If these don't help !Could you supply me with the type of fuel injection pump IE: american bosch(AMBAC) Or robert bosch

I would by pass the primary filter and run from a clean pail of fuel Also remove and check the secondary filter for poor fuel quality.Also If this truck is equiped with a tack drive mounted transfer pump they were a pain!

Is the truck engine brake equiped?? Could be sticking on!

No idle is best, but if you got to 1200 is the number!

As trent has spoke there were a few 700s with cat cummins and detroit.there were some superliners born with cats and the odd kt cummins very few and far between!I Also have never seen a leaker in one.

Yup!

Most poeple don't grease em this is an observation out of frustration after a whole summer two years back where we had a rash of clutch brake failures using 4 diffrent styles of brakes the hinge type would fall out after a month the babcock steel ones would shear or break the tabs even set a the very bottom of the stroke the eaton one would break in two with out grease my solution was grease ,and has put a stop to the failures.Some of these failures I beleive were atributed to vibration from the engine or clutch ,some from driver error.either way the grease and the light weight eaton brake was the fix be it right or wrong, Just somthing folks can try if their having problems like this.

Not really a hyjack this is an old post. the econoance is mounted in front of the fuel pump! the fuel pump is set at say 6 degrees static timing when the engine starts and until oil preasure is achieved most engines will sputter and smoke blu because the engine needs at least 12 degrees to run clean and corectly.once the oil preasure is up the the econovnce solnoid uses the the preasure to advance the timing to 12 and beyond, what ever the puter deams nessary to run cleanly and for desent power,to a max of 22 to 24 degrees.

liner orings get an oil sample done quick Or when the engine is cold loosen the drain plug and check for water in the bottom of the pan!

depending on what type was used! The two peice type that are hinged just fall apart on their own somtimes!The two peice with pins and the eaton brake the only things that will usually break these is over adjusted clutch brake or pushed to the floor while rolling in gear!If you have another installed I suggest the use of the eaton brake slathered in grease or a pin type babcock brake also slathered in grease on assembly! the grease will help prevent breakage.I like the eaton brake my self as we have had alot of failures with all of the others greased or not!

Also sum of the older tranys had a countershaft mounted brake.

Amen to that! If you use this one http://shop.vendio.com/taurussupply/item/9...6/?s=1214821969 slather it in grease and set the clutchbrake right at the floor and it will serv you well! there are others out there babcock and several others make them but if the engine dosnt run smooth the tabs break off in a short while you have nothing again.for best results use grease on those too!We had a real run on the heavy metal brakes last year so I tend to promote the eaton brake. Just an observation!

In my area the 417/ 442 are not a long lived ratios they tend to give out soon depending on aplication! the thru shaft bearing is easy to change But pull the side cover and have a real close look at the top gear set before ya just asume its the bearing!And as stated the top end seeks its own level it was not low 1 to two knuckles down is common!

The seal is mounted in the the flywheel housing!You have to replace the seal either way There is no possible way for the oil to get from outside to in!You can remove the seal with out the housing but not the other way around. A common leak on an eteck is the bell housing to block! near where the cam shaft bore is! we often grind a relief in housing at the inside of the cam location in case the cam plug leaks.(If we have the housng off) That leak is internal leak you discribe can only come from 3 sources on the engine ,the seal, a crack in the housing,or the bolts that hold the housing to the block!The other sourses being the trans. Hope this helps

Sorry no one got back to you on this!! First step The engine speed sensor is mounted on the flywheel housing check to see if it is not open or shorted this here is most likly your problem replace the sensor screw it in till it touches the flywheel then back it out! 1/2 to 1 turn and snug jam nut!(Note more than spec air gap will cause the same symtoms) If it has rob bosch pump ! it needs 15 psi fuel preasure to run.The econovance is your next step!When the engine starts ,does it sputter and slober till the oil preasure comes up? Then clean up? If not you may have a econovance problem.The engine speed sensor is mounted on the flywheel housing check to see if it is not open or shorted this here is most likly your problem replace the sensor screw it in till it touches the flywheel then back it out 1 turn and snug jam nut! check that first. hope this helps Fred