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That fix cost me alot of gray hairs 8hrs worth and the owner a fuel pump check over and all the parts and related sensors plug pins. YOU Got it for FREE! sort of lucky dog.

As matter of fact Trent your engine likly has a dynatard cam !the cams where basicly all the same . the jake is not much more if any more effective on a 285 than the dynatard, and a much easier install .Just rockers pushtubes and diffrent valve covers and the same wiring as the jake!

Glad to help! Ask and you shall recieve!

Fuel preasure should not be an issue unless its really starving for fuel, it would likly stuter, stumble and miss if it were running out of fuel preasure ,sounds like a programed derate.these are the things to check in order( sounds like they have been checked BUT ya never know! check 1 - Fault codes (Repair as nessary) check 2 - fuel preasure 15 to 20 psi under load. check 3 - re-pin fuel pump plug. if you have all of the above checked and done heres another place to go. i ran into this awhile back on an RD!( hicups and hesitations are USUALLY it is the pin conections at the fuel pump!)BUT Having said that ,You now get 1/2 the boost the engine should make ! You likly have a second unrelated problem If you have no faults coming up( No blink codes) , I would check to make sure the wiring to the torque limit switch on the trans is not shorted !The computer will not see a problem with this because it doesnt know theres a problem!(All it sees is a closed switch), and derates the power by half. check it out and see if that may lead you to a fix.

If it is an american bosch pump ,the pump will only go on one way it is doweled! Also (just a tip) when you install the pump back on the engine cut the new gasket from the round hole where the drive goes thru down to the top of the small drain hole below it take out aprox the hole width of the bottom up to the sides of the drive hole you should end up with a V shaped cut out if you don't they tend to biuld preasure from around the aluminum drive insert and externally leak by the gasket no matter how well you have sealed it.

Glenn you da man! Love this comment ( A simple test to tell which set up you have is if they stop when you apply the brakes they may not be wedge brakes.) no truer words have been spoken! Just an opinion from someone whos ,beendar dun dat. You would be well advised to go find a complete front axle assembly some where! the change over can be a big hastle getting the right this, that and the other thing to work with the hubs you have.I'd be hunting up a complete axle to be on the safe side. again just an opinion!

This is coming from a mack guy so take it for what its worth. The ISX has been a fair replacement for the V8 here ,Weve seen very few cats here so I can't coment on that!The ISX Suffers from their own set of egr problems (but get use to it)!We have several in our low bed trucks and have had good sucess with them!Just a A note and a thought for you,Look at your 15 and your isx compare the 2 visually, Which engine was designed to move forward in time! The cat is the same platform it has been for years with a bunch of addons so much so that a simple water pump job is now a nitemare.Having said that I am a non cummins guy my self but having compared the two And having to work on this over enginered stuff I'd rather work on the cummins for now! (speaking of over engineered) Next I have to warm up to the Volvo Stuff (I'm still resisting)

the bor and sleve thing works cummins has done this for years.The counter bores can also be sleeved!

David The owner will llkly pay nothing! The head is under warrenty for one year ,the jake piston thing i just speculation on my part, but I'd bet dollars to donuts this is where the problem lies.

yes its a diffrent set up! Not to worry. Anyway more to the story coming to a theater near you. The pins in the above pic are eteck ! Theses pins are OK ,I beleive the slave that operates the on top of these is the direct cause of this failure we investigated further today and as soon As I saw these slave pistons and there condition I remembered orderng them back when the first failure occured ,apon further investigation it seems our parts people never notified us or the customer parts had come in and the customer was never notified to bring the truck back to have them installed . We went down to the parts dept, no one seemed to have a clue (this is quite normal).So we went over to the holdshelf where parts are kept on hold for jobs and sure enough 3 slave pistions sit with no tag or work order number or anything ,all lonely on the shelf !THEY'VE been sitting here for THREE MONTHS and no one asked any questions???.!I think the ball has been dropped here US DUMB mechanics just order in specilty parts in JUST for somthing to do I GUESS. This is a non stocking item surely you should be asking some questons? .I'm just a tad pi$$ed off at this!

checked that today ,the valve pin that goes thru the screw looks fine !the yoke and pin look to have no funny wear!

Chris if you had just run thru the valve set with out checking things (second guessing your self) you would have been just fine! as long as the valvs are adjusted properly on the valve set marks what ever happens after that doesnt mater!just enlighten you a bit more ALL mack engines since the dynatard was invented are like that even the V8.

Thanx Glen The engine was sitting aa loading dock idling when it broke!The jake was not in use at this point the driver claims it was bumped up to 800 rpms or so the valve pin that goes thru the screw looks fine the yoke pin simply snapedoff flush I didnt have time to look at much else yesterday will look deeper monday just fishing for ideas at this point.as I said this engine has been bad news for quite some time for so reason.

Guys we have had a problem truck eteck 460 which has choked down a valve on #2 cyl for the second time.The valve yoke pin was broken in both instances chicken or the egg??Is there a roller / h ring issue causeing this? or just a bad luck with reman parts?I checked and the push tube is still straight !First head lasted just over a year, this head 7 months or so.Engine was a total rebuild 2-3 years ago due to a valve failure as well. The guy is not very happy and nor are we over this BS. This engine has a long history of problems. And good maintance. This customer has been a solid Mack guy for years this truck has been a sore spot for him. Any input or thoughts? Buying a PETE not aceptable!

25- 30 boost is a warm good running 400 your 427 will likly hold on longer than the 400. the torque curve is relitivly flat. Year of unit makes a pile of diffrence too . It seemed as the emmisons got tighter the horse power seemed to shrink! NO ONE would ever admit to it but Im sure thats how it worked. once the buy off went down with the EPA and what have you we noticed some power come down the pipe for a bit! there were data files that would actually put out. the XP file was avalible for the eteck for a real breif period aprox 2 years. that got nipped back real quick.

There is a plug on the front of the block right in front of the fuel pump gallerys screw in a 2 inch 3/8 pipe close nipple and an elbow with an aproprate sized fitting to adapt a guage to you'll need a 0 to150 gauge to do (this also can be used for boost) your looking for 60 to 100 psi fuel preasure. if you have no smoke and below posted spec boost be looking at a fueling issue 25- 30 boost is a warm good running 400.

Joe A common wheel base up here is 204 inches !55 inch or 60 between bogies.

Doc i can't answer that question BUT Whatever bang he gives you I just about guaranty we can getcha lots more if you need it!

the timing maybe a little diffrent too ,when they changed to RB they added a second pointer on the engine one to set valves and one to install the pump!

it is likly the exhast for the range button

the valve set is the same,you simply set the jake as your seting the valves the setting is depenant on hp 85 thou comes to mind!

Depending on the ponys ! 2000 - 2300 You don't want to mess with too much rpms on that engine the valves will float and you can smash lifters very ,very easy! BE happy with brute low end !Torque gets the load moving Not HP! Increased rpm is mostly hp.not worth a bunch in my mind! The buttres bolts SHOULD't need to be checked they torque up to 90 lbs and SHOULD stay there.

Judging by the color of the engine it is a 325 maxidyne!The bimbo is not present but could be installed if you wanted to go that far!You would simply remove the plug on the right hand rack and install the bimbo slave and some shims and add in the reversing relay!

pro68 the xt file will let em make 40 psi on a cool day! 35 is bottom spec for a truck with the XT program!Those puppys haul ass!Any trucks we have had with that file in the program made 35 psi on a bad day.If you were lucky enought to have gotten one of these trucks keep it! NEVER EVER have the eecu reflashed Cause you WILL NOT get the same engine file! I beleive it has been removed from exsistance!

Your set up is the same as Trents on his six! There is a reversing relay suposed to be mounted near the left front inlet manifold and there Would have been a A bimbo slave on the rh rack end at the front of the fuel pump! if you don't see anything there its all likly been removed!Any Mack engine equiped with AMBC fuel pumps will have this stuff on it six or 8 cyl the reversing relay is the only diffrence on them you HAVE to have the V8 one for your aplication! Don't remember the no,s but the last digits in the part no must contain P10. Also there is a shim set for the bimbo slave it has a measurment!!! BUT having said that You just want to trim back the smoke NOT eliminate it SO simply space it out with 1 - 9/16 flat washer!