fjh

three sources for fuel leaks into the pan are eups fuel pump seal and injectors as you have checked and replaced the first two, injectors is a vague possiblity!but seems unlikly. I suspect either an oring was placed in the wrong location on the eups or there is a damaged oring on one of them!

The lower horse power assets did not give the problems of the 460!seemed the more horsepower you drag out of it the harder it was to keep it together.

Increased pay load!yeeha Now were talking!Not only are we gaining fuel milage but payload!I predict you'll be a rich man 68!

Your welcome !Post your findings and fix

A truck that old may have a series parell switch trace the wires from the batterys back look for a big round solnoid!

Welcome to the site. Can you provide pictures of the pieces!Has it ever had a turbo failure ?If so you would likly have found a washer or peices of one in the pan!Duno with out seeing them its a hard call!They will likly be pulling liners to re seal them , so they can look at snap rings on the pistons. The torbo is a definate place to start looking.

68 Jerry B said he wasn't throwing codes!Why go to the extra effort? Awhile back You should put the driver on your truck !Then you can blame him for everything, It will make ya feel better. Off subject! No falt codes with the egr plug Jerry correct ? That's correct fjh there's no code present. lol I've thought about putting Jim on the new truck but I don't have anything against the man.

Whats it doing!

there was at one time a b model to r conversion !I see no reason the other way about would not work! The area where I live there is a converted b!

I beleive he was looking at his old truck!

I would check the drain back valve for a broken spring and also for air leaks on the suction line before condemming a fuel pump or timing issue!

Thanx Herb! Never heard the term before!

Welcome to the site Set the clutch in order according to this buliten, then we'll talk if it dont work! http://www.bigmacktr...ials&article=43 you may have the incorect arm for the side of the trans sorry, don't understand low hole

Is there a box beneath the coolant bottle if so look for FAN fuse!

Any word on the out come of this project ?

Chances are if the liners come out fairly tight Most of the way out you can just hone and reinstall what ever size came out!If this is a hobby engine I would just hone and reuse the liner as long as it hasn't too much wear!just Leave them in the block!Just my opinion!

Yes correct Rob! The liners are or were availble in oversize dimensions I beleive ( Don't quote me) 2 thou steps up to 10 thou and ( Maybe a bit larger) increments. Good luck tring to find that stuff these days thou! You would have to take what ya can get! Barry might be able to clarify this a bit as to what is still avalible!

Hmmm wonder where the broken piece is Check the drain plug!

if your inch is the same as mine ? 1 inch is almost the stroke of the forks total movment. You might be able to remove the fork By pushing the rail into the clutch housing! MAYBE!I beleive the lock out is your problem thou no need to remove it! Tri making a thick gasket from a cerial box and installing it under the lid of the center section where the stick goes thru! 20 thou may let it work again!Also check to make sure when you remove the front cover of the trans that there is NO spring under it! The detent spring is ment for stick shift apllications it shouldn't be there in your app!That somtimes will cause the air style to stick! The shift lock out sticks thru into the next section of the box so you need to remove that lid to access the lock out .But if you pull the lock bolt on the shift fork you will likly be able to slide the shift rail into the belhousing enough fo grind off the lock out ridge on the compound rail!

Man What a PO.

I've Seen this happen before! Where is the cyl located front or second lid back?If it is located in the front lid you can disable the lock out by cutting off the lock out portion of the shift rail !This can be done in the truck.we Need to idenfiy shift lid configuration!!! If the air shift is mounted on the front remove that lid and try to move the fork manually if it moves ok,cut the lock out grooves off of the frist speed shift rail that is sticking thru into the foward case with a zip disc Or grind a bit off the top part of the lock out groove and re assemble. There is also one other Possible fix Buy the proper gasket for that lid that may raise it up enough to clear the lock out groove!

The noise he has is low on the block!To find a head gasket the best way to find it is to pour water over the area you suspect while the engine is runing the sound will change as the water passes over the area.The cam is more likly!

Thataboy!I don't pull the lids on one with out asking if they want to replace bolts as a precaution warrenty or not !It amazed me that we went from a 7/16 sized bolt that never had a problem to one that was smaller than 3/8 to create a problem made no sence.The ac don't seem as bad as AI less bumps I guess.

Yup me to! maybe not that bad but almost!