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Two things! first to set the steering to max both sides on the bottom of the box there is what looks like a hole stick a flat blade screw driver that will fit the hole and back the screw out one turn that should affect the turn wider For one side( RH I beleive) long as its not hitting the circle stops on the axle first! you can also do the same for the other direction on the top of the box the same hole same place on the top! same proseedure you may have to turn the stops in a tad to acheive what you want!Second ,on an RD800 the ujoints can seem good but be stiff! check em out! remove the shaft from the box and the steady bearing and check everything for being free EVEN the steady bearing these can be seased and give you false feeling in the steering wheel!Replace em if your unsure of them!

Loose valve seats are noticible as you pull the shut down!Have some one pull the stop and listen near the air cleaner!in anycase they make one hell of a mess when they drop if it is a seat fine which one and pull that head!

He claims that they checked fuel preasure 60 psi or better !Never disclosed loaded or not!You would think it would exibit symtoms run rough and and throw multipul injection pump codes at least thats been my observation when fuel pumps go bad NOT ALWAYS but mostly! Also low compesion would show blu stinky fuel smoke! did your engine have this symtom?Just adding to the knolege base with this question! I have also seen them heads come in with valves swaped!

Rider This here Maybe worth looking into !Althou I highly suspect it would be a neglagable change.And you would notice some fuel smoke on startup. these guys change stuff without notice and somtimes neglect to put the info in the crate with the Parts / engines

Agreed! 24-28 28 is still safe! Like I told Trent if your pulling hard and you got just a smidge of black gray smoke your doing good at 28. Before you do anything remove the 3/8 line that goes to the smoke control at the manifold!Suck on that line If it will not hold vacuam it will not hold preasure It needs replacing! replace it if its leaking before making any adjustments to the fuel plate

14V is fine! (Qual-com installed) WHAT IS THIS? Doest it interface with the eecu OR vecu? If so Remove it temperarly! (somthing to try) When they checked torque limit did they do it running on the dyno in hi and low? Or just sitting in the shop static? I have had the wiring to the torque limit switch rub and short (cuts the power in half) the best way to eliminate this is to find and pull the wires that monitor that circit at the VECU This way It will always be off FOR SURE! Were the fuel threseholds checked? I do simpthize Ive had to fight these things before !only been stumped a few times this is just another to add to my list! I don't see the magic bullet here either !they did everything possible in my mind, ecu swap from a good known unit should have done the trick if the ecu was at fault! having said that! (I know you said ALL working computers) from a good known unit were installed ) but did they swap out the VECU as well? Maybe the EECU is seeing somthing it doesent like there?Somtimes the simplest things can be overlooked. The eecu is getting a message from somthing in the vecu to tell it to hold out on ya!Somthing it dosent see as a problem but A normal operation hold out! The only ones I can think of were the torque limilt and road speed functions! Sorry Man Im stumped AS well ! Let Us know if you get it ! I'll let you know if I can think of anything else!

Rider No fault codes correct? What was your origanal failer???? Please list the parts changed! Please list the parts CONFIRMED correct! You definitly have a fuel delivery problem by all your descriptions. Were all the same injectors and eups reused ? If the eups were changed were the new CAL codes installed? Your engine should make 30 -35 psi boost !!! What was it before / what is it now?IS the Boost sensor Correct? is the fuel preasure good?If we can't come up with a solution by chating here and If you are near a dealer and they havent already tried,have them try a reflash and down load?

Rider Heres sone stuff to have em check! FIRST Have em look in diagnostics go to switch status look for torque limit see if the switch says on or off!!! Needs to be off! You need to see 60 psi fuel preasure there abouts full load ! (you won't know this one unless you now the parts guy real well you bought the engine from.) WHAT cam key is in the engine You need a white off set cam key installed in that engine to run right! If its wrong (It will be down to 25 psi boost and have no pull range) Sounds like your exsactly half of what you should be so I would suspect the torque limit!!!

Skip! Yup you can do that! Check the pan plug first thou much quicker!Also if you have a dynatard it can be a worn or bent push tube! on the exhast!

Trent i just don't rememeber, they did away with the RS/RL (STRAIGHT FRAME) shortly after the 350 was introduced!maybe a 4 year run after the 350.Definatly early 80's The RD lived on for quite a while beyound this,

I have seen this done on an r700 when a e9 was installed the hood had to be modified to except the cooler.

I had a 237 make a tick when it was leaking a small amount of compression out of the head gasket. I didnt know it was a compression leak untill the gasket went and the noise was gone after i put new head gaskets and fire rings on it sum old farmer tricks! IF you suspect the above , it usually happens between the heads !To find or confirm it get a gallon of water or a garden hose and dump or spray it between the heads the noise will disapear momentarly if it does youv'e found your problem! If the cam is suspected check the drain plug for shiny slabs of metal Note this problem will (USUALLY) be acompanied by a poping noise in the air cleaner!

Both levers !THE STOP LEVER wether air or cable poperated has to be fully on! And the throtle needs to go fully on to acheive comlplete power!Once youve run this abit you may want to juice it sum!The straight fuel pump didn't put out as good as the v pump! you can remove the (AFC)smoke limit divice at the top rear of the pump and slide the fuel plate forward 30 or so thou to get some more jam from it! You'll find the info to do this on this site> http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf 22 psi Is MAYBE 400 hp on a v8 what is the rating on the VALVE cover! NOTE anything more than 28 psi boost your running the risk of pounding out your wristpin bushings! USE THE POWER WISELY.

Last night I found the link to the Eaton Clutch video. I forgot who posted it I beleive that be me!The thing the video touches on but dosent ephisize is the linkage adjustment!Get that clutch arm set properly and the rest is a cake walk!If you are using an easy pedal clutch and the linkage is not set correctly and you shoot for their measurments it will slip! Them dam air throtles are a pain!You can tweak the peasure at the foot valve a bit but for the most part you need to mess with the linkage till you get it to hit the stop fully!!this is and rd 800 right?I would get or make a cable setup simular to the superliner set up it will make your life much simpler!SEE if Barry can set you up with at least a cable and devize your own pedal. That v8 should pull like a train too IF you got full throtle and the stop is going FULL ON!Have somone push on the throtle and confirm at the pump that the lever is going full on! on both levers!The other posibility is the smoke limit diphram MAY have a hole in it!A good running V8 will make 24 to 28 psi boost and stay under 1000 on the pyro!A HOT V8 will make 28 to 32 psi boost and stay in the same heat area!

HK Im not so sure he can do that with a fuller trans!It is a can do with any mack trans thou. Regarding the rattle when the clutch is disengaged, are you sure it's not just the normal rattle of the centerplate when there is no tension on it? And you are correct ! This may be a normal clatter

Proper run in as follows!Acorrding to me and it works for EVERY ENGINE for the most part, Start the engine run a 1000 rpms till tempature starts to rise ,run under moderate load till operating temp is reached! PUT A BIG LOAD ON ITS BACK AND PRETEND that you just stole a million bucks from the bank and the cops are after you and you don't want to be thrown in the slammer.In the morning follow the previous writers instructions on head torqing back off 1\4 tighten to 225 Book says 210-20 I think?I always went a little tighter worked for me. :)And while your at it re tighten (ALL) the hose clamps the ones on the back in front of the turbo ALWAYS leak after a runnin and the water pump bypass as well! The worst possible thing you can do to a high HP engine is not work it! 30 minutes idling is too long in my opinion ,the first hour or two of running is the MOST important hours of the engines life.IF you can get a good hard run in, in the first hour of a rebuild you got it made.The engine will not use oil and will serve you well glad you found the problem and it was simple! The above breakin opinion is based on true life experiance NOT FROM SOME ONE FLYING A DESK! When the v8 first apeared WE SOLD lots Here ,we had oil burners and some not !After some time We observed the engines that were oil burners were trucks that had made the trip from the factory to our lot 3500 miles awayEMTY !The trucks that were piggy backed from the factory were fine( no hours )the driven truck with dogs on its back were fine, BUT if the truck was BOBTAILED from there to here is where problems were encountered! Oil burners were inadvertantly created by doing this! No one really clued in to this for quite a few years.After working with the engine for a number of years you could see the pattern un fold and it really all makes sense.Our company from that point on tried to be sure that v8's were piggybacked and not driven emty that solved alot of problems! Hence the method of breakin I use and will swear by EVERYTIME!

Muncher Heres the drill! Determinte which head is the culpret!listen for a ticking sound or use your heat gun!remove the lid and check for anything out of the ordinary bent push tubes on rockers ill adjusted or loose jam nuts on cross heads and rockers . Does the engine pound?/???? metal on metal sound???? if so lift the rocker on your suspect head and check the valve stem height! are they even?? if not you have droped a valve seat! Head's should come off and sent back to these guys to fix properly!if not maybe a bad injector or somthing!I have built my fair share of E9s and have never had a problem with head gaskets in a short period like you've done! Having said that! Spec on liner height = 1/2 to 41/2 thou 4 is best the higher the better Being as you didn't remove them WERE THEY EVEN ALL THE WAY AROUND???? The liners can and do sink (counter bores crack) head bolts you need to check ALL the bottom bolts for being broken SPECIALLY the corner ones we always replaced these with new they always seemed to break for some reason! Anyway let us know what ya find determine the problemand and I'll try and help ya out some if your willing to listen!

I will third the duability thing a midliner is a fine unit if maintained.

You may have a problem with working range if you put a 350 turbo on!Don't quote me, but the working range of a 300 is alot broader than the 350 and 350 is designed to work with a multi speed trans small gaps rather than big ones!The 300 ussually has a 8 or 10 speed trans behind it the 350 a 12 sp or 18 You may find your self not being able to lift your butt out of the next gear! Don't be to hasty in changing out that turbo!

The secret to making the brass trunion last is to jack the truck off the ground (all the weight off the wheels) let em hang! then grease em! Grease will always take the path of least resistance and that being the up side of the trunion when the weight is on the wheels ,the bottom side while hanging this way your putting the grease where it needs to be!on the bottom.

GOOD JOB BUD Apears to be an rd 800 or dmm your working on???

Nope sure isn't!Whish you the best of luck!We Have had succes raising the liners and putting it back together!You run the risk of creating an oil burner if you don't deglaze and re ring throu!Some thing to try!! worst part is your right there at the rebuild point! and doing a patch job. ? the idea but if your budget isn't there your budget isn't there.ya got to do what you got to do!

Rob Theres been a problem with the liner protution on these engines anything pass 400 horse the liner protusion needed to be set at 28 thou .Unfortunatly the liner height in your engine is likly set at low spec for a low HP engine which will be aprox 22 !if the engine has any milage on it beyond say 300 thousand miles it maybe the liners are set too low. thousands of engines left the factory like this most lived a good life others din't cut the mustard depending on the job they were doing. WHAT milage is on the engine???? sealing up the hole will do no good!You can try plugging the hole in the water pump to prove its not sucking air from there other than that I have no encoragment!Repairng the problem is just short of a rebuild entails up rooting the liners shiming them with 4 thou shims and resealing them IF they are Not too worn other wise!And installing new rings and deglazing the liners if reusable!

I see ya have the robert bosch pump did you set the valves on the v mark?

Anything much more than 350 and your pushing the limit. You also have to be carfull how much fuel you give it BECAUSE you can crack the block if you over fuel to much!And you will have nothing to rebuild, I have seen em crack at the sixth main cap from being over fueled!That is why the block was changed when the e7 came along The main caps were then bolted to the block thru the sides simular to V8 !The same block used right from the 250 to the 454 The eteck block is also built in this fashion!The New VOLMAC engine is a total diffrent animal More complex mor volvoized!