fjh

Remove the floor boards Jack under the engine bell housing!remove the engine mount rubbers on the rear this means the top ones as well!This lets you have room to lower the engine and trans for removal.You may have to remove one side at a time to get the upper rubbers out!I highly sugest going in thru the bottom cover and removing the clutch from the fly wheel it make everything much easier with the clutch left with the trans!don't forget to Remove the clutch linkage.If this is the first time out for the trans the rh engine mount bolts will be in from the top down you may have to cut the heads off em to remove em install em with the bolts up from the bottom on install, MARK ALL THE AIR LINES apon removall! My hints for now if ya need more help just ask!

Yup !The truck was born cummins then repowered with 3408 then repowered mack about 10-15 years ago Its funny this post popped up now! We just rebuilt the engine again last week cause number 4 the main bearing cap had shuffled and would not accept new main bearings (This an odd occurance on a V8) as we were doing a bearing rollin!Ended up building an engine from a diffrent block from scratch to get it hauling logs again!Its a 500 with an 18 speed behind it!It had a 12 speed behind but was upgraded several years back to the 18.Its a neat old truck there were only several ever built!

Book mark this! for your further enjoyment! http://www.nortrux.ca/index.php?page_id=1033

Head gasket leak between the heads is a possibility ! Or a bad cam roller.

Easier said than done on this there is a tamper proof screw on the back side that is a real pain to get to!The fuel lines are right above It

Fuel pump settings and injector settings! sum times a diffrent turbo!

mY PUTER won't conect at all I have to go to the outside server to grt on then its real slow! A windows seven glitch maybe.

Did that still no go!The trouble shooter says my computer is configured properly but the device I am tring to conect too is the problem! Duno!I can conet from work or any other puter this is werid! Thanx for checkin!

Barry are you reading your emails? If your not getting them! I'm still struggling with this problem!

If the stick is moving about then its in the main box!Check for peices on the drain plug small ball bearings. the main shaft maybe floating!

Service Hint! You can pull the large pto cover on the side of the rear section and watch the spliter work from there by having someone operate the switch while you look in the pto opening!

Thats 8 hrs labor and parts not bad as long as it holds together. dont feel ripped off cause, you got off cheap.an exchange would have been a sight more than that.

Naw probably just the Mack stuff! Volvo Cars Glenn! http://www.forbes.com/2010/03/29/ford-to-sell-volvo-unit-to-chinas-geely-marketnewsvideo.html Were still truckin so far!

And a good time was had by all! Yet another well tested divice gone bad! Betcha theres gona be sum duckin and weavin at the Cummins warrenty claims desk! O wait its a Volvo problem! The paint color is off! NO WARRENTY! That will teach em for sending us all those defective Turbos! Well it worked out on paper anyway!

Did you set the valves in the firing order by the Valve marks on the fly wheel? Did you have the heads checked for bent valves, the push rods were bent for a reason ,the engine may have been overspead!

Its Unfotunate but true !You won't likly be buying another truck Charlie!You think you have had down time with your old truck just wait a year or two! watch and listen!the trucks built today are geared to fleets!

In answer to your question they work fine the input shafts wear the splines sum is all! The concept Of this was ,the RW was dirived from the W model cab over they both used the same frame and steering arrangment hence ( RW ),the frame change came about when the MH came along ,Same thing the MH and RW still shared the same frame concept,Made production a bit less complicated I suppose!

Backlash 10 to 15 thou! middle is best 12.Tri to create the same pattern you see on the new gear set your installing! Low to center in the middle of the tooth! and endup with 12 thou and your laughin!The pinion nut needs to be 1200 to 1600 foot pounds!you need a 4 to one multiplier set the wrench to 350 and it will get you 1400 !Good enuff Put RED locktight on the pinion nut!Be sure to put the power divider inner cam with the grooves on the flat facing to the rear of the diff apon assembly so the oil can travel the tube! bull wheel cap torque 350 set the bull bearings to zero end play + one notch extra to engage the lock dowel!

Yup the gd crutch!We have had our share of this,The guided diag thing is a bit of a joke as well you can spend a good day doing all the steps in the dam thing and still come up with a dry hole!O the dpf is pluged well how did it get pluged all the temp readings were right,!As wrench said you can't read how the engine is running cause all of our sences have been taken away no smoke to read nothin, only a half baked computer program to look at that gives you half the story! 68 Don't get me all fired up on the meritor issue!The prostitutes of the parts world!The copy cats of the truck industry!There aint nothin they can't copy and screw up!

To Make sure were talkin apples to apples!The hose from the puff limit to the fuel pump should be capped off ! as Glenn pointed out.

Thanx for chiming in!I sumwhat agree with some of your comments Yup we need help lots of it!If Barry will see to it that you can join in on the Corporate forum Please get signed up. You will see what is being talked about. Your help will be greatly appreciated As for the mp ten we have only two here running the hyw and off road yup they need to buy better wiring. and Its nice to work on in the Titain which right now is the only model its offered in! As for bullet proof The mp engines replaced an already bullet proof engine that had the same crap bolted to it which also ruined that engine The base engine was good the bolt ons were trash as they are on the volvo Engine!The diffrence being it was easier to work on than the mp engines . you'll have to pardon my negitivity towards the mp but the out landish flat rate times they give you to do stuff is rediculus to say the least. Just getting to do half the tests you have to do for some of the most stupid problems that have already been learned by mack we are doing the same stuff over agian! I would really like you to take part in the corporate forum PLEASE contact BARRY and GET signed up Bro.

acording to the codes on this site http://www.nortrux.c...hp?page_id=1033 the fan is not working correctly!that should not affect the running of the truck! An 8-1 code would !No#1 unit pump failer!

Well thanx for the post!I aint never adjusted a wheel that way in 35 years of truck work But if thats a proper way then fine.

Burried where on the site?

You need to count the bull and spur too, there CAN be a difrence there as well!Pull the fill plug on the rear diff and count the teeth thru the hole! Jack it up and have somone turn the wheel and count!other wise you'll be in the same pickle jar!Make sure the rear matches the front!