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2004-2005 year pleged with problems by newer or older 99-2003

Youll likly nailed it with the injection line thing but remove the exhast manifold will likly confirm a wet hole!

Good info 68 we have had no failures of this nature even thou weve had sum broken bolts, but this is good info on the h ring Thanx for posting it!Most of our customers shut the engine down when the poping starts!

Glen That is all because they want the new teck guys to attend law school to learn to read the half assed gobaldy gook they write for the manuals theses days!That Insite program is awsume thou.Wish the mack guys had taken more pages from that book.

Sorry I cant help ya We do have the tool for install at work but have never used it!H rings have never been an issue.

do keep us updated! If you have one bad hole the blow by would puff back at you at the fill tube! If its a steady pume you may have another issue!If the engine is turboed it can be the turbo! I would check Glens theroy first if its asteady plume, a simple check!crack the drain plug in the morning see what ya see!

50000 was his intended target with shaffers oil!Having said that ,the oil he was using to this point was esso 15/40 the sludge biuld up is mostly because this is an egr engine!He went 5000 over his normal interval of 15000 miles.Intends to run chevron 400 for a short period then swap over to Shaffers next month.We,ll see!I hope I have convinced him to stick to a proper servce interval!I opened his eyes a bit wider by cutting into this filter.Oils in an egr engine really soak up carbon!the evidence is in that filter. That spiner is one of the best things Mack used since the inseption of the 4 valve e6! Volvo should have takin a page from one of the many good mack ideas on this one! They remove a whole lot of goo from the oil as you can see.

A WORD TO THE WISE This Is a picture is a spinner Filter from an AC 460 Engne If any of you intend on useing extended life oils ie: pensoil shaffers ect be very atentive of this filter! After 20000 miles the filter is plugged ,this guy was planing on a 50000 oil change interval .If any of you intend on extended intervals indend on changing this filter at least every 10 to 15 thou miles.

Well as long as its a runner thats all a guy can ask.Paint it gray now it will really haul a$$. Good job!

Your messing with the smoke control if you don't mind the smoke , you won't hurt it with that! 1 turn would have done the job!

It L run! But it will run better gray! At least 20 hp more too!

Wrong color!

Yup just center it the best you can the screw will be close enough!The degree spec is + / - 1 degree

Number one cause of fuel prime loss is any filters you have with plastic bowls on them on the primary side! Racor ect!If you have one of these on your unit by pass it and see if the problem goes away! Aside from that start at the begining check for loose fittings if the engine is vmac it has an orfice no leak off valve ,the primer Could be the problem but start with the cheap and easy stuff first! if it is a mechanical engine check the leak off valve, the spring may be broken.

the very first engines came out like that then changed back to one!If in doubt the plug tells the story as Glenn statedThe first engines also came with a Elab valve or fuel shut off valve which was also deleted after a bit!Guess they wanted to make sure the epump concept was going to work before trusting it with out the valve. Adentified by a wire heading to a small valve at the inlet.

Thats a gotcha Glenn.

What horse power is the engine? 8 degrees would be a good starting point!

You can get it close by putting the engine on its static timing mark somwhere between 6 - 10 deg(what ever it says on the valve cover)peer into the hole were the timing tool fits and center the tone wheel tab in the hole with the fuel pump gear loose on th slots turn the pump cam till the tab is centered in the hole tighten the bolts .Be sure your marks are lined up on the fly wheel. Also As Glen stated Some Pumps were timed on six!To identify the timed cylinder look for an allen head plug on the pump body on 1 or six if the plug is on 1 its timed to 1 if its on 6 its timed to six! Note that this is a get by not somthing to go to the bank with just a get by!

Agreed

some early trans had an adjustment for the range pin height!Having said that I have added a blob of weld to the bottom of that pin to make it a tad longer it only takes a little 32 of an inch.Lift the range valve off the top of the trans pull the pin out of the trans and add a bit to the bottom off it!Put it back in and give it a try!It may take a couple of trys to get it right,It is alot easier than messing with the adjuster( IF )it has one, some did some didn't.

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Is the block damaged?

The magnet stick kit from Kent tool is quite pricy! if you got pocket magnets from your tool source thous will work just ducky.I just hope your block is not damaged.

What Glen said! we had a can of black hard grease that you could put under the lifter and it would hang all day. I dont know about a E7 but the little cummins we use chop sticks to hang from the top. There are magnet sticks for this job !Grease is the get by way!Just geter done.