alcoon61

bad speedometer pickup maybe? My speedo pickup went bad and would cause it to cut the ecm back.

I sure was tempted to try and bypass it. Wasn't sure that ecm would not have to be reset after taking the exhaust out I was afraid it would be burning too lean or something? On top of that those epa fines look pretty serious. It is really sad too because without a doubt all trucks would be in the 8mpg range today if the epa went away, when america needs it the most. Due to their epa garbage and ultra low sulpher diesel still have to work hard to get 6 mpg. But if I was making 13% of the fuel like the government is I would like for it to be 2 mpg and $10 a gallon would be a lot nicer than $4. And everybody is supposed to believe they are trying to help us. I am waiting for all the engine manufacturers to join catepillar's solution.

Thanks guy's I finally found a brand new EGR cooler (Garrett Heat Exchanger Part # 28GB519 piece of Junk) brand new for less than half of what the dealership wanted. Input side was nice and dry just light soot but out put looked like ink running out when I took it off. Got her all changed out and test drove it for about 10 miles so far so good. No spitting and sputtering. Still have to pull the oil cooler screen and replace it and flush a couple more times then put some antifreeze back in it. I could go on and on about what a ripoff that Garrett heat exchanger is. A doggone heater core in a steel box. For $2000 lord help. In looking there are aftermarket ones out there in the $700 range for every commercial engine on the market except Mack. The after market changes from this fin style heater core to a commercial style heat exchanger with coil pipe tubing and carry a lifetime warranty. I plan to experiment with the old one and cut it open gut it and put in coiled pipe from a true heat exchanger. Who knows if you ever need one you may have the option to buy a aftermarket from me that will not pop/crack everytime the engine overheats. Lets go trucking!

Part number is 28GB519 if anyone should every need it. Local Mack dealer here in Louisiana quoted me $1850 plus tax. Took a lot of looking but finally found a brand new one for a little over $900 and that included $160 Fedex overnight. I plan on taking the old one to my brother in laws machine shop and cut it open and build a standard pipe maze heat exchanger out of it. There are plenty of after market egr coolers out there for everything but mack with lifetime warranty's. I have a vast knowledge of heat exchangers from being in refinery maintenance for 25 years. The stock heat exchangers that mack put on these trucks from Garrett are "Junk". It is nothing but a heater core in a steel box. And they are charging $2k for this. Jesus what a rip off. These garrett heat exchangers that they are calling egr coolers are not fit to go on a lawn mower much less a $120,000.00 commercial vehicle.

Can anybody help me get the part number for a egr cooler a 2007 cxn613 mack vision 427 aset engine? Vin is 014310 My local mack dealer is reluctant to give out part numbers and not much sympathy toward the less fortunate own/op trying to aquire a used part to survive. I can pull the part to get it off the back of it but do not want to dismantle if I dont have one available. The bank can pick it up the way it is and I will not have to put it back together.

Reading over my post I should have put in it that water apparently has soot in it to. It is getting really dirty over a short period of time. i drained some in a clear container and after two days it did not seperate so I do not believe it is oil. I had recently changed the oil in the truck and it is still full and no water in the oil. I have not been able to see any excessive smoke from the exhaust. Once on the trailer (van) it appeared wet where the exhaust hits is but it was night and I wasn't sure.

Thinking long shot here and looking for advice. A week ago I blew off a radiator hose and lost my antifreeze. Hose wasnt busted blew off the radiator on top. Put it back on, let it cool down for two hours and filled it with water and ran it on home. Left out two days later on a 300 mile run to Dallas and no problems running down the road. Noticed at the truck stop that night I was getting some overflow coming out the overflow tank cap. After idling a while it quit but it was sloshing out the radiator cap pretty good with the cap off. Truck was not running hot pulling a load and finished up that load and the 300 mile return home. Assumed heating up problem may have been due to mostly water in radiator and drained, flushed and installed new anti freeze coolant blend. Ran test run and several hours idling and not problems surfaced. Left out with a load 700 miles to Kentucky. Watched on the run in 95 degree heat and nothing showed up to be a problem. When pulling out of the truck stop in Kentucky the truck coughed and spit like it was running out of fuel or had water in fuel and it had never done this before. It caught up after coughing and took off. It ran 600 miles of the 700 on the return trip with no problems. About a hundred miles from home I started getting a code light coming on but it would not stay on long enough to read it. Temp was running a little high but not out of the ordinary in the heat pulling a load. (200 average mostly with fan cycle occasionally.) Made it home with no problems and finally was able to get the code that was coming up. (5-8) Egr Temp Overheat. After all I could read on the net I suspect a cracked EGR cooler. Antifreeze was two gallons low. Being a single truck independent Owner/op under a load I thought maybe it will limp on to dallas and get rid of the load I am under. WRONG. Ten miles or so from the house it coughed again, like bad fuel or water. Stopped when I got to the interstate and checked everything water wise and no leaks was not overheating (180 degrees) so took off. Didnt get far and mostly after deceleration on small grades when the cruise picked back up it would cough and spit and sputter a few times then catch and go on. This went on for ten miles or so. I pulled off a exit ramp which coasting to a stop. Before setting the brakes engine died after coasting a good ways. Raised hood and water was spewing out vent hole on overlow tank cap and sight glass on steel tanks appeared to have a lot of bubbles in it. Let it sit and cool down for 2 hours. Fired right back up idled ok and shut it back down. It held a gallon and a half of water. There was a drop yard where I load all the time across the interstate at that exit where I load all the time I decided to try and see if I could get over there to get off the side of the road. When I started to take off it spit and sputtered bad like it did not even want to take off. I drained some fuel out of the secondary and it was clear of water. Idled in granny gear across the road dropped the the trailer and after sitting there idling it would take acceleration ok. I decided to try and make it bobtail back home and see what it did without a load. Got on the interstate it spit a couple of times and finally lined out. Ran her about 55 down the interstate and it may have spit/ coughed once or twice like a miss on the 20 mile interstate ride. After getting off the interstate and due to stops and starts and more acceleration and decelaration it coughed and missed and bucked a lot more leveling out at times. I apologize for the lengthy description of symptoms. My question does it sound possible that upon decelaration and extended idle that water leaks our in the egr cooler getting to the combustion chamber or does this sound like I have more problems than just the egr cooler? thanks in advance for any advice,

mine was doing that and I was loosing power on the main power switch. somehow it ties in with a set of contact that the defroster slide turns the a/c on and these were the contacts that were chattering and quitting. It is a little switch on the back of the control panel when you pull it bottom right corner with two wires. See if your compressor comes on and stays on when you put it on defrost. I unplugged the switch and put in a 15amp fuse and use the main fan switch to cut it on and off and it does quit anymore.

I have been fighting a/c problems for couple weeks on 07 cxn 613 vision. Everything under hood and freeze switch has been replaced and is new. I keep getting a chatter behind the controls like a relay chatter and thought it was the freeze switch. I finally isolated it last night to the switch mounted on back of the the defroster control housing bottom right corner with two wires going in. It has a little shaft that goes over to the defroster pot on the back side. I can tap on it when a/c kicks out and a/c kicks in , it is constantly in out when in the vent selection for a/c though. I can turn the knob to defrost which forces the rod to move and the switch comes in. Is the main power using the same contacts on this switch? thought about just adding a toggle and remove the switch all together then the a/c would stay on. Any insight would be a big help. thanks

Break is not enforceable till 2013.

Still fighting with this a/c. Have replaced both high and low pressure switches, compressor, dryer, expansion valve and finally found apad troubleshooting info on the net and found a big part of my problem in the filter chamber in front of the evaporator looking for the t-stat which mack calls a freeze switch at the parts counter. There was a walmart bag sucked up in there in front of the evaporator filter. Went ahead and changed the evaporator filter and t-stat. comes on blows cold everything doing what it is supposed to do. Guage pressures look good low side running 35- 45 in 95 degree heat and high side just over 300 and everything drops back when fan comes on at about 310. Problem I am having now is it runs a while and then starts blowing hot. I can hear the thermostat on the evaporator cut out killing the compressor. Sometimes in a few it comes back on sometimes it dont like its hanging. Today I could smack the side of the thing with my hand and the compressor would kick back in. It does the same thing with the old thermostat too? Any idea's what might be going on. If you ever fooled with one of these t-stats on the evaporator it is written something like in- out and a arrow with colder written above it. It is all sealed in shrink and I cant see any adjustments on it. Is there a trick to how far it should be inserted in the evaporator tube? $800 spent so far on a walmart bag sucked up in the evaporator what a idiot I am but still having freak problems with it I cant figure out. Any help would be appreciated. I can get it going good and it might run all day and it might not. Yesterday I went to sleep and 4 hours later woke in 120 degree heat, smacked it and herd the t-stat click and had to shut the truck off 2 hours later freezing. Seems to always want to go on the blink in town it will kick out and start blowing hot, get stretched out on the highway and get it kicked in and it will run for hours. This thing is crazy. Beginning to think a 5 gallon can of diesel in the sleeper and a match would be the best solution. Anybody have any thoughts or advice I would appreciate it. Shops are out of the question and I am too hard headed to pay for their trial and error also. Thanks

Thanks Rob, after a lot of reading and fooling with it today I have about narrowed it down to what I think is high pressure valves instead of the expansion valves. When first cranked the a/c compressor runs. After running a few it will kick out and not come back on but the fan is not coming on like it should. I dumped the air tanks forcing the fan to run and in a few the a/c compressor will kick back in. Now I am scratching my head trying to decipher off several websites if the pressure switch on the high pressure line or low pressure line is the one signal the fan to come on. Horton which makes the fans says high pressure side (switch) . Then a found a mack apad bulletin that said the low pressure side switch controls it which makes no sense to me because with a guage on the low pressure side the pressure is not changing when it kicks out. dirt dobbers seemed to find my dual guage set and I am trying to clean them up so I can see what the high pressure is doing but wanna make sure I dont get dirt in the system. Any idea's as to which one actually is controlling when the fan comes in and out. I have a pressure switch in the line near the low pressure filler valve, and another on top of the dryer which I am assuming is the high pressure side. Thanks

I am not sure of the difference between internal or external. I have only change 2 in my life on the truck I had before this one and picked them up at freightliner. I try not to use the local dealer no more than I have to I think because I am a one truck operation they really stick it to me on price. I will just take them off and have my brother in law (works at RYDER) get em for me. He gets a lot better rate than me and employee discount also. Wished Walmart owned everything at least they dont charge one customer one price and the next customer a different price. Thanks

Does anybody have a way to look up the part number for the expansion valves on a 07 cxn613 vin 14310. I see some mack expansion valves on ebay pretty cheap and would like to change mine but dont want to pull them just to get the part number and kinda hard to get behind the motor and see. Figure there is one under the sleeper too there was on my freightliner are they the same part number or two different? Thanks,

I finally just emailed Lucas Oil and one of their engineers was kind enough to let me know it would not hurt nothing.