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Mechanical. E7 or electric either way a good unit for on the farm or elsewhere if the price is right!

What year?

Another easy check I recommend is the tank vent just crack the fuel fill loose for a while and see if the problem goes away if it does the vent is pluged!

Just splitting hairs here ! The pressure would not be complete with out the injector its all in the package ! it sets the pressure and and the spray as stated ! Just get it done! If you need to run the truck THEN just pull em clean em and put em back in with new orings ! Chances are injectors will need to benched to change tips ! Also stated. exchange will likley be next to impossible to find (happy hunting ) This will shut you down for a week while you wait for them! if you don't need the truck by all means send em out get new tips put on!or wait to find some exchange ones!

Thanks for posting your fix!

So have you run a valve set on the unit ? Does it have blow by? You could have bad compression on thous to cyls !If u swapped the pumps out and the problem stayed with the cyl then it sounds like a physical problem to me! Can you post All your symtoms ! Color of the smoke boost preasure and pyrometer readings( under load) This might help nail it down! the engine should make 30-35 psi boost and pyro should stay under 1000 deg and the re should be little to no black smoke while pulling!

We have had injector cup issues cause this! Have you had issues starting it??

Yup the clutch cable thing is a hard thing to wrap your head around how ever I have seen quite a few issues pertaining to a worn clutch cables jerky operation ect! never had one make a clutch slip that bad how ever it is possible as you have proven !

Fuel transfer pumps are a suspect as well on these!

Yup correct! My half our comment was based on a look see! NOT A repair!

highly doubt the the vac thing as you have open valves to fight with the chances of getting a total vacuum is slim to impossible at best !

model and Year Of the unit would help some!!!!!!

Most remack stuff is junk now ! Seems The Volvo people instill no pride in the employees they hire , just a job! Get the injectors rebuilt by a reputable Bosch shop!

Just pull the plugs it takes half an hour and some new valve cover gaskets. Just my opinion! To prove out the situation if there’s fuel on the top of the injector s time for orings

Those injectors are from a Robert Bosch straight pump engine identify able by the ball alignment dowel

Yup!😎 As a side Note You only Need to install the top big and the second small oring down on the injector the metal washer at the tip will seal the return gallery just fine!

Yup same old same old dollar store DPF! By their own hand! Fitting!

>. The only way that would happen is if there was back pressure in the return lines. Is that correct?< The only way is by the orings That I HAVE SEEN . I by no means am saying the fuel pump is not at fault ! But The orings get hard and cooked and crispy over time and fuel starts passing by the return orings IF it cant go out the injection line spacer( Another indicator) wet or damp injection lines! it takes the path of least resistance depending on the return line drain back valve spring tension and engine RPM any where from 30-60 psi! I have worked with a fair few V8s over the years and have rarely Had a fuel pump or transfer pump fail in this manner! I have had quite a few injector orings get crispy Thou ! Just Sayin ! 😉

I would chectk the injectors before blaming the pump lift the valve covers off and pop out each injector hold down check for fuel on top of each injector! Injector oring failure will cause this as well!

Vaporized By engine heat! Your valve covers will likely be full of goo depending on how long this has been going on! Heat rises nature of the beast! It will likely be coming from around the outside of the liner silicone is used to seal the lower liner lip ! We've had very few oil cooler issues! head plugs can leak as well however very remote!

YUP ! Agreed Just as a note If you Do Preselect your (split) however you need to make your shift immediately to avoid damage to the shift fork on EITHER OR transmission!

We just installed a clutch supplied by the customer from paccar http://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/clutches-and-brakes/easy-pedal-advantage-clutch.html available in Variety of ratings up to 2250 torque Very reasonably priced worth looking into in my mind! Our Mack/Volvo parts people couldn't come close in pricing!

I personally would be more concerned about the anifreeze situation You need to pull the pan and put a pressure test on the cooling system to identify wear the coolant has come from! Oil cooler? or Liners are the common areas There are some other areas of interest Not as likly but not worth mentioning till you check The first step Specially if this has just started!

I agree with tech Very common in cold climates ! And if the engine has been Idled for hours on end ! Sometimes you have no choice , how ever Idling is not good for any engine And twice as bad for a diesel of any brand ! specially after a rebuild, it's Called wet stacking! Don't IDLE IT ! Even idling it at 1200 is not loading the engine enough to make the rings seat properly! When I do A rebuild I like to have a loaded trailer out side the building ready too haul Warm it up operating temp, slam it under the trailer and gently work the shit out of the engine for the first several hours !Then put the hammer down ! Even driving a couple of miles to the yard to pu a load is wasting valuable break in time in my mind.We proved this dozens of times with trucks delivered by ground the trucks that had been road delivered to the dealership with nothing on their back would burn oil from the get go! The trucks that hauled two or three trucks stacked to the dealership burned no oil because they had worked for the first 5 thousand miles! The sooner you work em the better break in ! Just sayin! 😁

Yup Said I have seen it done Not by any means recommending it That said if you were to leave the joint at the turbo base free you would have your expansion covered!