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So first take the cover off check that that the clutch brake is not just spinning on the shaft if it is you need to replace it! If it is still splined to the shaft Proceed as follows because the arm set is maxed out PLAN B I would loosen the jam nut behind the clevis at the arm back it back 1 or 2 turns then remove the clevis pin and turn the clevis back to meet the nut you just loosened now re fit the pin into the clevis and arm and try the clutch brake! if you run out of thread on the clevis PLAN C loosen the Rear most nut on the clutch cable Sheath two turns or so Then tighten the front nut!The objective here is to make the fork closer to the throw out bearing assuming you still have free pedal! once that's done and once you achieve clutch brake you will need to reset the clutch with the winder on the face of the pressure plate so you have a 1/2 inch gap between the clutch brake and the bearing face to achieve your 1 1/2 free pedal that you should be used to having by having a properly adjusted clutch! There is a plan D AND E how ever Last resort! Don't want to go there unless forced too!

For a fuller trans yup! On the mack they provide an adjustment on the lever if that has become seized ( Likely Why no one wants to adjust it for you ) you can remove the clevis pin and wind the clevis in several turns that will shorten the cable in turn that will give you more clutch brake and less free pedal! once you got the brake where you need it then you can set the free pedal with the adjustment provided on the clutch itself . IF its not a solo clutch!

Make and model of truck? for (most) normal trucks this is a linkage adjustment?

We have no more beaver pelts to trade so we have to go with the absolute cheapest thing possible !

the valve set marks are on the fly wheel remove the cover plate on the bottom of the housing turn the engine clockwise till you see valve set numbers and a line place the line dead center in the hole firing order 153624 make sure you have overlap on the opposite number cyl in the window 1-6 2-5 3-4 are paired so if your setting 1 you need over lap or tight valves on 6 and so on and usually the valve set lash 16 intake 24 exhaust but changed a tad for some years check valve cover lash is usually on the tag! Good luck

Agree! The Short list! Fuel lines are metric. the drive hub likely won,t fit the mount May or may not be drilled for rob bosch! There are likly lots more oddities!

yup missed ya bud!

Also be aware that if you decide to go with oem there are 3 different grades of chair light medium and severe duty we just did a severe duty on a RB cement truck last month took out the light duty one .

Its q pain how ever with bolts out try get the non lever side out first it has no key! the clutch arm has to has to come off as you need to remove the woodruff key on this side and have to turn the shaft to get to it!once that is done the shaft will come out far enough to remove the fork! You will likly have to remove the rear motor mount to get the drivers side shaft past the frame! you have a CL it has thick mounts it will gain you loads of space

it can be done!

I mainly have nothing but respect for guy? So knowledgeable,hope everything is fine also.if your out there budy chime in!

James Me thinking the same thing Normally KS would be all over this Anthem propaganda thing! He carries the same opinion of the mother M/V group as myself.

This truck will grow on me As did the granite ! However the comment that the truck was built to make money Falls short as the the main way, now a days to earn money with this or any truck is to keep it out of the shop This remains to be seen ! Have they addressed the any engine related issues plaguing these engines for years now ie injector cups .They claim to have a more efficient design on the after treatment how ever time will tell , They still fit them with substandard sensors and poor quality wire! Not to say anyone else is doing any different just Sayin There is more to this than looks! UPTIME!

Kev sent me these links! https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/AutomotiveNews/AutomotiveNews_EN/MANN_HUMMEL_Automotive_News_2012-2_en.pdf http://www.us.mahle.com/mahle_north_america/en/news-and-press/press-releases/modularity-and-functional-integration-in-the-engine-periphery-of-commercial-vehicles-7361 As Glenn mentioned in the log run it comes down to Cheap assness! (WONDER Why THE big V aint gone Here yet!) ( CHEAP) And in my mind the the idea of having to disturb those filter inserts ( CROSS contamination )Far worse than filling a filter with clean fuel or oil! So one small vote for the volvo method For now! ( Its only a matter of time till Cheap mode kicks in At the Big V !)

Any one know why the likes of Mercedes and Scania IHC choose to use canister type filters rather Spin on style filters? Is it deemed more enviro friendly ? Just curious!

Camel back Rubber or grease ? Yup me too ! 8 to 12 hours work plus parts! You need a real powerful 1 inch gun thou 1600 torque on them ubolts !

Won't Crank Or won't Start? Which is it???? Two different things!

Well I guess my comment was based on what he has v/s what he will have to change ! fuel lines the power tower ect ! Just curious what makes the rob bosch Hands down better than Ambac Brutus ? I realize obviously parts is one issue ! again just curious !

example western star ! If you shorten the link at the fire wall you will get more brake lengthen you take away! Set this first it never changes except for wear of the brake its self! On Our Macks you have five places to choose from the cable ends ,the cable sheath both ends or the proper one on the trans arm its self if its not seized ! Then wind the ring inside to Get the 1 1/2 free pedal OR = 1/2 inch gap between the clutch brake and the throw out bearing! On MOST Vehicles! It comes down to how you like it set after that I personally like the clutch to start engaging approx half way up So the 1/2 inch gap = 1 1/2 free pedal , May be a A little less than 1/2 inch at the bearing and more like 2 inch at the pedal for my liking !

If they haven't flashed the ecu don't ask em to you may loose the xt file for ever I beleive it has been disallowed how ever mack pro would know this for sure! i am not positive of this it was a rumor floating around!

I'm one of those guys ! Grease will not hurt it ! I install the aluminum style brake WITH grease Just so the drivers can't wreck them as fast! set the brake RIGHT on the floor so they have to dig for it Half/ 3/4 inch off the floor max. Agree or disagree ! This has work ed in my favor for he last 30 years ! I Ain't Changin Now ! If it ain't broke Don't Fix it!

I agree He needs to stay with what he has! Unless hes building a race engine ! Check EBAY have seen them there before! What is wrong with your pump can it not be rebuilt?

Check PAI Good quality stuff for a reasonable price! EOP-2045 MAK240GB5263M6 https://www.paiindustries.com/catalog/cataloglistTOC.php?catalog_id=6&catalog_t_id=10590

Yup for that brief period the filter kits came with dog turds in place of the water filter ! The casting sand fiasco did happen about that time ! That.s one of those things that I thought should have been a PI Campaign but it never was! Other than if you had and overheating compressor ( check here note! ) Still run in to the odd block with a the casting sand issue with liners removed is very evident !

Yup Glenn is correct ! With the exception of VOLVO OR anything else with A Hydraulic operated clutch! If there anyone else Think Freightliner might use that crap too ? Everything with a linkage or a cable will require that you adjust the linkage to Get the clutch brake set correctly FIRST Then set the inside to your desired height of engagement with the internal ring!