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Check the little hose at the compressor inlet and under the inlet manifold! those often burst! its a one inch steel line that runs behind the engine

The idea here is to expand the aluminum from around the nut yuo are replacing the valve

Cheap cheap cheap thru out the industry it seems very sad!wonder what would happen if say autocar or someone started building a good quality unit say ten grand more would people buy?Or is price the selling point here!

Ahhh! another step backward for a reason thou ! Well that"s a breath of fresh air! I thought they were being illogical for no good reason! But there is a reason for being illogical ! Thankfully We haven't had the displeasure of working on the ( new power assist ) option yet ! Were still working patching up the other issues that haven"t been addressed 😡! Rear Engine mounts have become an issue as of late ! Thankfully we have the odd bull gear failing still , on the older trucks so the mounts can be addressed at that point🙄!Planed obsolescence! have said it before , Its a shame these Volvo people bought a company that had some well established people and ideas that worked ! And they never ran with any of it! Having said that the front bumper on the new Anthem s we've been selling here have a bumper 1/4 that can be removed for better access for service and repair !😁 Its horrible to work on. With an inch or two of clearance. No changes needed to be made to the Volvo to fit that God awful design hanging off of the D13/MP8. Well they made it easier to get at the EGR valve at least What more to ask for! 🙄

That special button was likly an overlook me software probably not legal but a get out of jail free card for now to give them time to figure out what to do! 🙄

you can also try Any type of penetrating oil again and air hammer on each nut location! You will need to replace the valve of coarse IF you can get it free! Had luck with this Technic on a Peter built last month! Assembled with neverseaze on the threads !

Unfortunately going to be a can of worms once you start! If you have an impact hammer try massaging the valve at each flare but location and apply a little heat!

Yup and the key to it is do the cheap and easy and most likely stuff first as always! Most of this stuff now has a track record not necessarily spelled out in order of Reliability! 😡

So Guys next time you get a chance to get up close and personal to a new anthem chassis check out the NEW AND IMPROVED ? front cab mounts and post your thoughts !Observe the logic if there was any? To its design ! Does A bolt running for and aft for a cab that is air suspended at the rear Make sense to any of you??? Was there anything wrong with the old mount that it had to be redesigned??? Just askin!

Good Find RED!

The post Hancock left is the way to go time wise for a dump or mixer application by far!

I some how remember something about the fuel pump wiring is a tad different How ever im in the same boat as you ! not sure !! The engine will run off memory with one sensor unpluged ! Same as the new engines takes longer to start!

Check for any brake lights out trailer connected ?????

Just my observation ! I Have Always wondered about why the Pete guys could never design a clutch pedal that didn't look like a piece of antiquated Farm equipment! Up till the Cab redesign as of late! How ever Its Always been A REAL MANS truck for what ever reason! Kinda like the Harley Of Trucks! 🙄 Nether of which I am fond of!😎

You can also get a screw driver in thru the cover on the bottom and pluck the disks free from the flywheel and the intermediate plates by having someone hold their foot on the pedal or have a stick hold the clutch pedal down turn the the engine by hand and pluck at each paddle location!I have had to do this ! Where a unit has sat in a wet location for to long !

I would suspect if you've had the yoke come loose several times that its about time to do syncro plates as Rob mentioned ! Having said that Have you checked the the oil yet If the truck is equipped with a trans cooler coolant can get into and contaminate trans oil and cause the same issue!

Check for a loose or broken yoke bolt

Good news! 👍 Keep it simple!

i WOULD BE VERY CAREFUL TO OFFER LOW with that rebuild in mind!

Yup bolts got to be out cut the head off and put the nut back on the bottom and get it spinning with an impact alternative is you got to take u bolts out any way leave the pitman arm on till it’s on the ground

So have you got any farther with this problem

That is the rack stop adjustment ig you need to try give it more juice loosen the jam nut and turn the screw back 1/2 turn and lock the nut and try it! That is the old style adjustment I don’t recall the direction to turn it clearly. However if you feel a power increase you have gone the right direction/if it decreased the power turn the screw forwards one turn from that point and try it! As I mentioned it’s been 25 years since I messed with one of those however I remember it being opposite to the newer two jam nut style.! Once you establish the direction do not surpass plus 1 1/2 turn from stock set unless you want to wreck something!

The above comment is so true Agree totally! The smart money is being spent on your current project Bro ! How ever if they don't sell the new stuff you may not be busy! 🙄 However! Fear Not thou !We have had a rash of EGR cooler Failures as of late ,they must have found a new Dollar store to shop at for these!😥 And You will always have work doing injector cups as well !😂

Yup seen it happen a few times ! It even happened when it was a not Swedish owned ! How ever these guys can't really afford need to piss many more people off,small or big! Volvo/ Mack market share is dropping like a stone!

Answer was correctly answered by 41 ! As for your noise judging by your comment an exhaust leak would show up as soot trails at the ports ! Check for broken studs ! After cooler could be cracked and leaking ! If the cooler is cracked you should have some black smoke trailing the truck under load and the pyro will be getting up to 1000 quite quickly!