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fjh

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Everything posted by fjh

  1. fjh
    That special button was likly an overlook me software probably not legal but a get out of jail free card for now to give them time to figure out what to do! 🙄
  2. fjh
    you can also try Any type of penetrating oil again and air hammer on each nut location! You will need to replace the valve of coarse IF you can get it free! Had luck with this Technic on a Peter built last month! Assembled with neverseaze on the threads !
  3. fjh
    Unfortunately going to be a can of worms once you start! If you have an impact hammer try massaging the valve at each flare but location and apply a little heat!
  4. fjh
    Yup and the key to it is do the cheap and easy and most likely stuff first as always! Most of this stuff now has a track record not necessarily spelled out in order of Reliability! 😡
  5. fjh
    So Guys next time you get a chance to get up close and personal to a new anthem chassis check out the NEW AND IMPROVED ? front cab mounts and post your thoughts !Observe the logic if there was any? To its design ! Does A bolt running for and aft for a cab that is air suspended at the rear Make sense to any of you??? Was there anything wrong with the old mount that it had to be redesigned??? Just askin!
  6. fjh
    Good Find RED!
  7. fjh
    The post Hancock left is the way to go time wise for a dump or mixer application by far!
  8. fjh
    I some how remember something about the fuel pump wiring is a tad different How ever im in the same boat as you ! not sure !! The engine will run off memory with one sensor unpluged ! Same as the new engines takes longer to start!
  9. fjh
    Check for any brake lights out trailer connected ?????
  10. fjh
    Just my observation ! I Have Always wondered about why the Pete guys could never design a clutch pedal that didn't look like a piece of antiquated Farm equipment! Up till the Cab redesign as of late! How ever Its Always been A REAL MANS truck for what ever reason! Kinda like the Harley Of Trucks! 🙄 Nether of which I am fond of!😎
  11. fjh
    You can also get a screw driver in thru the cover on the bottom and pluck the disks free from the flywheel and the intermediate plates by having someone hold their foot on the pedal or have a stick hold the clutch pedal down turn the the engine by hand and pluck at each paddle location!I have had to do this ! Where a unit has sat in a wet location for to long !
  12. fjh
    I would suspect if you've had the yoke come loose several times that its about time to do syncro plates as Rob mentioned ! Having said that Have you checked the the oil yet If the truck is equipped with a trans cooler coolant can get into and contaminate trans oil and cause the same issue!
  13. fjh
    Check for a loose or broken yoke bolt
  14. fjh
    Good news! 👍 Keep it simple!
  15. fjh
    i WOULD BE VERY CAREFUL TO OFFER LOW with that rebuild in mind!
  16. fjh
    Yup bolts got to be out cut the head off and put the nut back on the bottom and get it spinning with an impact alternative is you got to take u bolts out any way leave the pitman arm on till it’s on the ground
  17. fjh
    So have you got any farther with this problem
  18. fjh
    That is the rack stop adjustment ig you need to try give it more juice loosen the jam nut and turn the screw back 1/2 turn and lock the nut and try it! That is the old style adjustment I don’t recall the direction to turn it clearly. However if you feel a power increase you have gone the right direction/if it decreased the power turn the screw forwards one turn from that point and try it! As I mentioned it’s been 25 years since I messed with one of those however I remember it being opposite to the newer two jam nut style.! Once you establish the direction do not surpass plus 1 1/2 turn from stock set unless you want to wreck something!
  19. fjh
    The above comment is so true Agree totally! The smart money is being spent on your current project Bro ! How ever if they don't sell the new stuff you may not be busy! 🙄 However! Fear Not thou !We have had a rash of EGR cooler Failures as of late ,they must have found a new Dollar store to shop at for these!😥 And You will always have work doing injector cups as well !😂
  20. fjh
    Yup seen it happen a few times ! It even happened when it was a not Swedish owned ! How ever these guys can't really afford need to piss many more people off,small or big! Volvo/ Mack market share is dropping like a stone!
  21. fjh
    Answer was correctly answered by 41 ! As for your noise judging by your comment an exhaust leak would show up as soot trails at the ports ! Check for broken studs ! After cooler could be cracked and leaking ! If the cooler is cracked you should have some black smoke trailing the truck under load and the pyro will be getting up to 1000 quite quickly!
  22. fjh
    If it’s hard to start in the morning it’s a guaranty check egr before getting carried away. The hard pull comment kind of raises my eye brow a bit!
  23. fjh
    Firstly u need to be pull at the rated rpm not full rpm to develop full boost you should be seeing 33-38
  24. fjh
    Remove the egr hose at the front of the cooler and c if it’s wet there! Possibly failure however your symptoms are more similar to injector cup failure
  25. fjh
    Nope aint no Mack and I'd don't think there are to many grades where they are working cause I don,t care even with 400 HP your going to break something if you have any sort of incline and that much weight!!

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