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possibly ! have a look It could be anything from 275 to 350 what trans does it have? If it has a 12 speed behind it ! will likely be a 350 ! if it has a 8 or 9 0r six speed it may be a 285M 300 M !

e 6 it has side covers behind the fuel pump there is a tag on the rear valve cover

Rd800? Maybe 18000 is a heavy axle! Flat metal fenders?

Dito

Good Job Barry really like it! O well I tried after almost a month I had to change back to oem ! Found I didn't care for the dark mode But Keep up the good work buddy Can't hurt to try things!

My first thought is the accessory relay if you turn the key on and you don't hear a click in the the dash I would check there first!

Fuller would be my pick for all of the reasons above the main one being cost of repair! The Volvo people are pushing the m drive and want all real transmissions Mack fuller or otherwise, out of the picture! So they a gouging on the parts end to make it not worth rebuilding or repairing any thing real Mack Or fuller fuller is far cheaper on the repair side as they. We’re the dominant trans for years!

We go to the injector first for most issues as it is the most common problem!Garden path diagnostics can really lead you to a lot of dead ends at times . The CBR setup is a better diagnostic tool if you can get to it! its a more realistic tried and true real world repair path! Believe it or not servicing the air drier more often can benefit in a lot of cases in wet climates WE have noticed the HC Doser gets ruined by water in the air sends shit down the line clogging the injector as well also the the dollar store fuel line gets rotten and can cause repeat issues in the newer units!

Yup definitely worth trying if your stuck. An yup thspeed sensor thing apply to standard only transmission!

Good info bro keep up the good work!

You may have a bad lifter

It will help not the best Jake set up!

Check the vehicle ecu locate under the passenger kick panel it may have had leaking windshield and water has gotten in the main plug.

I totally agree! I Am very surprised that the cops or some crazy in the crowd Aint using real ammo at this point! The public is too quick to judge in some ways ! The cops deal with this sh*t day in day out! YUP ALL LIVES MATTER However, people are lucky there only using rubber bullets in some ways ! Very sad situation! What does kicking the sh*t out of everything prove ?

Front engine mount may be different.depending on the year and model

Has anybody here done an upgrade to the above title! How much Fiddling and fussin is there involved ! We got a new truck Dump 14 sp MDrive tows a quad and the unit uses a fare whack of air doing some of the tasks its asked to do ! Were thinking of installing a 2 cyl compressor! Anyone here done this?

Reminds me of a Sterling!

We just did a 7 and ours was updated! I believe the boys looked into it before we did this could be wrong I’ll check!

We’re the hold downs the up dated hold downs they are taller that was the half hearted fix before the stainless cups

A 5/16 fine bolt 11/2 inches long with a thick body washer and a ladys foot pry bar will do the trick ! That said !We have had these so stuck in the bore that Had to use a porta power to remove them and the injector sleeve came with the injector hopefully your not in that predicament!

There was also offered a 315 aftercooled with robert bosch fuel pump and switzer turbo! usually appeared in the RS models!

Rider you say in your vid that you think the grease is causing the issue with the brake ! Grease on the brake in my opinion will not cause it to fail or hurt anything in my mind other than add a bit more weight to the brake its self ! In my mind the weight of the babcock brake is what kills it ! In my opinion if you have an engine that tends to vibrate or the reaction springs in the clutch are weak, everything shakes and tends to break the tabs off Its like little fly wheel on the clutch shaft rattling back and forth when the shaft is turning! I have not used a babcock brake in years because I saw what you have there to many times! We switched to the eaton two pc ! Its lighter and doesn't rattle around as bad ! This being said!! The adjustment on the brake is fussy You need it adjusted Right on the floor hardly any squeeze or it can be broken as well and Yup I grease em when I install them For One Reason! Believe it or not ! there Are Drivers out there That Don't have a Clue What The Clutch brake is for! So I apply grease gives the brake a fighting chance at life even if the driver is clueless!.Un like yourself your operating your own stuff Fleet guys don't often give a rats ass ! not interested in why shit fails ! just slam the door and go home at the end of the trip! Us shop guys will fix it keeps us employed ! All this being said Most all manufacturers are fixing this ! They are avoiding the situation By PUSHING automation ! Fix stupid by creating more stupid ! Pretty soon there will be no more clutch brakes to worry about! the tranys and clutches are not cheaply repairable these days! If you need replace a clutch on A New Ishift/ Mdrive They are nudging $10,000 bucks across the counter pricing here in Canada! Everything inside the clutch housing needs to be replaced to avoid future issues! You are pretty much stuck with the DEALERS! Manul will soon be dead

I agree with them how ever you seem positive it’s leaking at the seal where it meets the spindle! As stated make sure it’s not cracked! I would still use the scot over stemo and good quality silicone on the pitted surface clean and dry also check you diff vent for being pluged

stemco grit guard seal is just what you discribe!

stemco grit guard seal