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Seems a little to new to have a manual fuel pump?

Check the plug below the turbo!

So you claim two plates are needed ??? do you put one plate under the EGR valve ? And so where do you put the second plate?? once you cap the exhaust under the egr valve there should be no flow to the intake manifold! no flow thru the egr cooler or venturie tube back or forth! just asking curious!

Nice Good job!

Your last picture shows on top what replaced the puff limiter on the older american bosch fuel pumps! That has a diaphragm inside It may have a hole in it! To test remove the line at the manifold side and suck on the hose if it won't hold a vacuum the diaphragm needs replacing!

Salmon red or robins egg blu

Ahh good call glenn makes sense!

I've seen those used before I have no experience with them though Let us know how it goes! I would use it on the front side as yours looks quite worn!

Ground fault breaker

So you need to adjust the linkage sothe brake has contact with the brake aprox one half to one inch off the floor then adjust the clutch ring inside till you have a half inch gap between the the brake and the throw out bearing!

That is the original clutch brake the other one that fell out was an add on! I hope you have some one holding the clutch part way down you don't have much clutch gap there!

some of these had and air shut down cyl on the side of the fuel pump it may be sticking ! or the air supply solenoid is not working correctly!

https://www.google.com/search?q=mack Plani drive axles&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CfLzBEQkRaqGYbxriZMENWf_1&rlz=1C1PRFI_enCA788CA798&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CAIQrnZqFwoTCPD5qeP5hO0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAh&biw=1903&bih=937 This site shows some parts for the HD planetary hub used on CL350 http://www.westworldtruck.com/Catalog.page?CategoryID=28156&CurrentPage=1&ItemID=193957

Also if you see oil oozing from the stick tower or out the breather vent you may want to oring your shift lid!

Volvo knows how to gouge for sure!

Best advice is if your after a reliable truck 2003 or less ! As Trent stated new ain't necessarily Best! Second best thing to do if you are buying ANY Manufactures Unit these days is Buy New and get the THE BEST warranty coverage they have ! Be aware that warranty doesn't cover down Time! And make sure the driveway to your favorite dealer is paved and close by!😅 Newer units have a permanent gravitational pull to the repair depot kinda like a homing pigeon !👿

So here's the procedure ! First get the clutch bake set with the lever adjustments on the OUTSIDE of the trans ! Get the clutch brake set so it operates 1/2 inch before the pedal hits the floor! now go to the winder on the clutch housing wind the inner ring( clockwise to bring the bearing closer counter clock wise to widen the gap) till you achieve 9/16 - 1/2 space between the clutch brake And the throw out bearing ! When your done confirm the clutch brake is still operating! You should now have approx inch and one half free pedal at the pedal end ! Note the cruise liner had issues with the cable mount on the floor ,make sure the floor is not flexing when your stepping on the clutch!

Ive seen more than one of them hubs with one or more rear flares broke check em for cracks before you reassemble ! This happens quite often to 5 spoke hubs! not so much on 6 spoke!

second that ?

You could try getting a dealer to put the cal code in!also did you look at the cam follower?

Did you get this sorted out?

I would be tracing the main starter wire they could be rubbed thru in the bellhousing or starter as stated start by disconnecting stuff in order back to front !Start at he source and move forward!

Ground fault breaker there should be know power to that box whatsoever! it will only light a test light across it if it is blown!

The picture at the top shows the hub already removed ? This engine looks quite old what vintage is it? The shaft in my mind should brass drift out of there!

RS686 ?