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He should already be there with that model year the exhaust mod is for AI egr engines!

its 12 speed then with deep reduction being on the second stick! Note that when using deep reduction on these you only get to use first gear and one split! the rest of the box gets locked out when in first and low,low!

As long as your doing a mechanical to mechanical swap you should be fine Vmac not so much! We have don e6 4 valve to e7 in a an rd with few mods it was quite easy! as long as you have the charge air your laughing!

We have also had good luck with the accordion pipes that are installed after the defuser and turbo these stand up OK, so spring brakes and this pipe are two things so far that I have (Some) faith in! no worse and MAYBE better than OEM!

This here issue is even more prevalent when your in an area where salt or brine is used on the roads it sucks the Cheap wiring thru out the truck is affected def tank wiring also effected with in one or two seasons!

so the second last picture can you manually move that shaft to the front any further that cap with the hole is meant for a cable to attach to pull the valve to the neutral position when the box is raised WHEN operated by cable system on an air set up it becoms redundant Can you push the rod with the pin thru it forward any more! Maybe contact Drive products and ask some questions!

In my mind if I was a dealer and wasn't dictated to by the Mother ship! I would stock both dollar store and OEM or real brand parts How ever when you have to watch your pennys you do what you have to do! Let the customer choose give him the option! BUT as expressed above some people can't look passed the chrome and glitter to see what is really earning there living for them!

Yup agree go back to where you bought it and have it checked the valve may not be set correctly!

Liehberr LH60 on fire. Starter self-engaged and exploded. Poured melted brass and solder into the compartment basement and ignited the oil soaked acoustic padding. Well it sounds like you put the fire out ? To bad ! You had a perfect opportunity to switch machine brands! : 😁 one step above or below the Volvo brand junk which ever way you care to look at it! Either way this B/S is going on thru out the industry Quality is less and less rather than charging a bit more for a unit they cheapen it with dollar store parts hydraulic Rams used to be chromed now the rods come in just black metal ! Our KW dealers here Are CASE equipment as well and Even the dealers have to put little bags on the rods so they don't rust to display them on the lots real sad! Cheap shit! Pay more for less!

Yup more Dollerstore issue parts by the Volvo corp! Good to know! Thanks! I was looking At the their offerings for clutches and wondered! you answered little My inner voice question ! We hopefully will stick with the tried and true Eaton stuff In that regard ! I have no control as to what I am handed to install unfortunately! We have asked several times to go back to the delco reman stuff At least you only do them once! Falls on Def ears!

I'm not sure how many of you here are still with a dealer how ever ! I have a question for those who are! Are you guys having this road choice line of parts jammed down your throats ? And are you having any luck with it? So far we have been selling these starters and have a fairly high failure rate 50/50. Brake chambers have been good How ever the electrical stuff I'm just Not sold on it! We have starters piling up by the scrap bin No core on these ( VERY WASTEFULL) Definatley creating work for our selves selling this stuff ! Not so much for happy customers thou! 😡

Yup the Evil Volvo Corp is now related to Huawei ! Sold down the river AGAIN!

Your better off taking it to a shop and having them build an exhaust system even at shop rate it will be much cheaper! I would estimate maybe 600 to eight hundred bucks at the high end! also if they quoted you in chrome and there was no stock check to see if there is stock on the non chrome version! Also is the muffler mounted beneath the truck? that will be the only wild card!

I have a thought ! Do it in order of ease if there is such a thing specialy if its an MR ! Remove the turbo hose to the after cooler so it will not build boost at all! run the engine( N/A ) See if this condition persists! This would nail it down to the head area ! then proceed to your cup theory then move on to the head gasket theory if the cups don't show up anything ! just a thought!

I know that it isn't leaking coolant anyway. how did you determine this !? just askin!

Yup dumber than a truck load of Fire wood and not even as useful !

Easier stuff first rad cap , egr cooler ! Is it throwing up any codes?

So did you dig in to this yet steeler?

Egr cooler

Inlet manifold!

No the lid would have to come off to do it correctly! If you remove just the small rear cap it would be just a look see thing!to clean out any oil ect! you can try it!

I would be checking the air pressure at the shift lid forward hose on the small cyl should be around 70 psi ! you could also as stated remove the end of the rev cyl and check for oil build up! also due to its age consider removing the shift lid and re oring the whole unit ! Not really that hard to do in a CL !

They might give you national fleet price on the Volvo lube or you can try the jobber branded stuff ! Less lubricity though ! 😁

Even thou this here is an outrages price Bro! And We all think / know that We are being gouged ! Volvo /Mack Are Not The only thieves Out there ! Nope! Don't think for one moment KW ,Pete ,freightliner ,Cat Aren't Doing the same thing ! Just imagine the gouge before it hits the dealer ! Then he has to keep his doors open! And They Really gotcha if you can't buy it a the local hardware or auto store ! The Captive stuff ! Turbos , orings , injectors . bla bala! Bend over pal ! Would you like it dri or lubricated? 😡

Ok SO My bid is 35.99 plus applicable taxes! You Need It THEY Got it ! The Sky is the limit!