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Yup Job Done!

In my opinion!No to the bolts if the cam looks good leave it ! Pay close attention to liner height try to achieve 25 or better up to 28 thou!

Yup for sure another place to look! For sure! Bogus sensor or even malfunctioning gauge!

Thats your next step then ! Check the fuel pressure under load! Should have at least 60 psi! After that you need to look into wiring The torque limit switch on the trans will hold back approx 15 psi boost if the switch or wiring is shorted and will not throw a code as the computer doesnt know there is anything wrong it just thinks its in low range!

Nice Find! Governed rpm is just that 2100 will not hurt it! Nice Find ! Likely a 300 hp! trucks built in that era were evolving to drive by wire 350hp and up! I believe 93 was the last year they offered a mech 400! Your rpm and lack of gears indicates its likely 300 maxidyne!

Yup cheers Guys! Stay safe! Hey Bull ! You appear to be drivin Volvo Trash !

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue !Check your oil level if its high the pump may be fubar! Is the primer getting hard or is it spongy if its spongy Fuel pump May be toast! However rule out the stuff given you so far! Also Did u check the ECU Plug for coolant push as directed? Its wurth a check!

Yup for sure seems They have ran off some of the good contributors here over political crap ! we need people to fill the gaps here ! I am currently around this new stuff and see the goins on but don't work on red stuff ( HAPPY NOT TO ) just( most times) a silent observer ! In the shop right now We have a mp8 unit that came in with a miss that started suddenly! down the street from the shop ! The boys pulled the valve cover to check the valve set and one of the guys have the experience of a stuck valve sure enuff, rip the head off valve is bent and the valve next to it has a third of the valve missing! Which We have seen before with MUCH larger implications Broken liners and such! Anyway the point here is It's nice that some of the new guys to the forum put forth their input and experiences Helps everyone learn and may even save some guys Bucks to keep in business ! Quite honestly these new trucks are NOT owner opp Friendly You need All the help you can get if you own one ! Thats where we come in ! So yup! V3, Joey keep up the good work ! If we all contribute we all win in some shape or form! Us old folk Like Glenn , myself and others Will hold up our end as best we can! 😇😅

The origanal E7 was definitely The better of the two But The main upgrade on the eteck came with the powerleash EB much better holding power! !

Leave em alone! Flywheel to crank bolts are 5/8 They are torqued to 180 +/- 5 or so No worries in my mind!

You'll notice that now a days you can find mostly 50/50 antifreeze no mixing required two reasons ! they make more money For sure! How ever water quality is controlled also ! With full strength your at risk of adding in unwanted minerals yada yada! Where I work we wouldn't entertain using the water with antifreeze, Just the Iron content of the water is off the scale We have a big sign on the wall DON'T DRINK THE WATER HERE! That goes for the trucks we repair as well!

Myself Long as the pistons and skirts look good I wouldn't hesitate to go the liner kit route! Also if you engine is 350 plus horse power DO NOT Atempt using low spec Shoot for any thing above 25 thou as mentioned 28 is nice if you can achieve it! And strictly adhere to the 2 thou variance between holes!Also! Suggest use a good quality Silicone permatex Ultra gray or ultra black Have also used there Anaerobic sealant works well also! Try to avoid cutting the counter bore if you can Putting down shims can be a risky business if not done correctly can backfire! before your guy up roots liners Measure where your at See what protrusion is there! Theroy here being, It ran before it will run again if were in and around the midrange spec! These Guys are putting you on the right road here Just heed the warnings! Good luck bro

Jojo you’re familiar with the pai site check there the crossover should show up there!

Good question 880joe Also could be an oil cooler issue as well however not quite as likley as a liner leak!

10 to 20 grand depending on your shop ! Don't drive it much longer! leave the rad cap loose if your going drive it!

Likely antifreeze

( Faulty SCR Catalyst.) this is a possibility Its been quite spotty and we have replaced several ! How ever you got the follow the the rules of engagement Or warranty won't pay if you have any left!

This is an RD remember!!!!! just popping the rear lid off is not easy in the truck ! Trans removed is Much easier than inframe and for someone has never done this and hasn't got the special tools! Remove the trans and get your wallet out! Volvo Has made this a crazy expensive repair! They would rather you buy a new truck! If You were to do this same repair to a fuller it would be half the cost and yup it happens to eaton fuller as well just A more reasonable repair!

If It ain't broke don't worry about it If your happy with its performance leave well enough alone!

Seems a little to new to have a manual fuel pump?

Check the plug below the turbo!

So you claim two plates are needed ??? do you put one plate under the EGR valve ? And so where do you put the second plate?? once you cap the exhaust under the egr valve there should be no flow to the intake manifold! no flow thru the egr cooler or venturie tube back or forth! just asking curious!

Nice Good job!

Your last picture shows on top what replaced the puff limiter on the older american bosch fuel pumps! That has a diaphragm inside It may have a hole in it! To test remove the line at the manifold side and suck on the hose if it won't hold a vacuum the diaphragm needs replacing!

Salmon red or robins egg blu