fjh
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Everything posted by fjh
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Not really James, Allison is a far superior vocational trans! For the most part! If You have to Have An Auto and manual is not your thing then The I shift / M drive has its place I suppose??? but in the dump / mixer / anything work site related the ally is the trans for the job in my mind ! From my experience the Allison has stood the test of time! the Ishift in this instance not so much!
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Is IT a 12 OR Is it a 13 speed???? Big difference !!!! If its a 12 the air shifter has reverse on the knob as well if its a 12 the orings on the hi low split can be changed with out removing the lid! all orings can be changed except the shaft oring which rarely leaks!
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If the bolts don’t climb after the engine starts it is likely not charging! Most likely the alt.the relay on the fire wall can also be faulty.
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99 E7 E Tech 400 missing and white smoke between 800 to 1000 rpm
fjh replied to DBGraves's topic in Engine and Transmission
If we’re talking the same issue here ? On older trucks We used to move inlet temp to the outlet pipe of the after cooler wonder if that is an option! -
Do you have a Mack trans? If so there is a torque limit switch on the rear of the trans try unplugging that!
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99 E7 E Tech 400 missing and white smoke between 800 to 1000 rpm
fjh replied to DBGraves's topic in Engine and Transmission
If it were a short it will likely show up as a fault does the check engine light eliminate when the miss occurs? EUP malfunctions should show! -
99 E7 E Tech 400 missing and white smoke between 800 to 1000 rpm
fjh replied to DBGraves's topic in Engine and Transmission
Yup if it is the smoke and stumble file issue I wonder why it has chosen now to show up ?kind of odd! Something else l have been thinking is maybe a broken eup spring .just odd it’s happening in the same rpm range! The smoke and stumble usually showed up at a stop light some sort of heat sink issue either inlet sensor it though! Try to pay attention to when it happens and set instances! -
Run a decent size wire from the truck frame to the box frame for ground or wait till you lift the box a bit to establish a descent ground
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Check all of the connections on the fire wall also have seen the ground fault breaker cause issues like this try by passing it if you’re lost of prime theory don’t work.
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Agree with that statement totally! Could easily start floating valves at that!
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Just a note ! there was an exception ! the 325 V8 was governed at 2600 ! No load in that way they were able to use a six speed trans!
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This being said the tack seems a little high 200 or so in my mind so if he’s driving by it his sweet spot is not where we might think! Just my thought on it so add 200 to the s/s 1400 you get 1600/1850 roughly!! If the tack is off!
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99 E7 E Tech 400 missing and white smoke between 800 to 1000 rpm
fjh replied to DBGraves's topic in Engine and Transmission
In my opinion You need to remove the valve covers an look for a valve train issue a bent push tube or the like -
Sounds like the accessory relay to me!when you turn the key on is the heater fan able to run? If not replace the relay!
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Between 1400 and 1650 is likely where you need to be.
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V8 ENDT 866 fuel system leak down issue
fjh replied to DarrylMueller's topic in Engine and Transmission
That be it! The big round thing screws in it has orings on it! the drain valve inside it has a spring behind a needle valve same as the E6 -
The only thing You may be able to uses is this 43MR213P2 If its still available and you will have to bush it up to 3/8 pipe! https://www.paiindustries.com/catalog/fraCatalog.php
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Did the pump pop up when u unbolted it ? This will cause em to fly apart! Also I hope you are replacing the eup bolts they tend to break when reused !
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So go find two or three good quality 1/8 thick fediloy grade eight flat washers from a bolt supply place and stack them in there the results will bed the same!you can’t not have no washer s in this location or you’ll endup in the same spot again !Fastenall to name just one. These brackets were once fabricated and held down by two bolts and spacers it is now casted!And now one bolt and a spacer over time they have cheapened things !
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There needs to be washers or a thick washer between the bracket and the housing on the bolt that goes into the bango housing or it will not stay tight! The difff casting has milled flat cut outs for flat washers to fit there all the way around the diff if you don't put the thick washer there or at least several flat washers there for the bracket to seat to the bracket will never stay tight!
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Good explanation buddy! My bet is the bolts are loose inside the cover . Your on the money for the repair as well !it also held to have the torque rod on the front diff as well spread the load around!
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I Highly doubt all the oil slobber is from just the loose studs Could be wrong However Seen it before! Does the front diff have a bracket as well?
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How are your trunnion bushings, U bolts are tight? In my opinion judging by that pic, if you were to lift that diff out the banjo housing will be cracked LH side!
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AMEN To That!
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Beleive there is an anti wicking harness for this issue you should invest in it!
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