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You can replace one liner However you have six!!! At the very least do the three under the head your removing! To save time lift the heads off as a unit and start by checking the leaky one and the one next to it! If the next to it one looks iffy do em all! Get a price from PAI On CAM kit And liner kits! and bearings! Rocker bolts are more an issue on AI/AC engines !

Buddy what year is the truck? Most common on the Grey engine is Fuel transfer pump Then EUP Orings!

NO Leave it off the center That one is redundant to bad he drilled it bigger they usually just turn out with very little effort!

These had a an issue with the piston coolers breaking off as well !They are plastic! Another easy place to look ! Just sayin!

The main thing is to do it dead cold how ever you retorque I do as you do and just run over them again in order!

Are you loosing coolant? the cooler may leak only when warm or heated! Just sayin!

warm it up to temp check for leaks ! Then Work its ass off Best Breakin! Full load and some Steep Grades! Time tested ! It seats everything properly! With the timing as it is thou , Keep an Eye on the water temp and the pyro!

More prevalent in the 2010 to 2015 era! Still see it happen! Lets Put it this way ,if its running it can still happen Maybe! Its a Crap shoot!

The down side to changing the coolant now is you, will defiantly find the week spots!

If its burning it you will soon be forced to find out where its going ,as as mentioned the DPF will clog ,it should be doing frequent regens at this point! Soot level will go thru the roof and you will be parked! Just my opinion!

Those often fail due to due to heat ,the compressor working because of overtime air leaks is the air drier purging every fifteen seconds ? ! Or clogged coolant lines!

Ahh that makes sense now ! Mack supplied the dealers with a big dollar jig to reset the hub when these first came out ! How ever as usual there was a work around with the engine close to or on the static time Install the pump on the engine with the hub just snug or just loose with the spade in the timing window! Install the gear on the hub with the bolts in roughly the center of the slots snug ,then torque the pump center nut! and then recheck and set your timing as described before. pretty easy and can be done in the truck but much easier with the rad out but still doable if you want perfection! 7.5 is close so it should run ok ! And if your content with it fine ! Just sayin

Hope I'm understanding this wrong BUT!If you had no key on the cam and your were out 24 degrees you may still have an issue ! Cam timing and pump timing are two different animals! you can bend a few things if it ain't right!one tooth out on the cam to crank can create havoc! May run but not for long! Besides the proper way to put the cam gear on is to put it in the oven heat to 475 put the cam in the freezer and the gear will just drop on! Just sayin!

Yup dual exhaust is just a fashion Statement ! Not a Necessary money making item ! Want to make money keep it Simple! If you want a designer truck For looks Get your self A Pete! Just an opinion!

Yup agree ! also there is a second hose like that one on the under side of the inlet manifold! check on that too!Your best to use a heavily braided coolant hose OR the proper Blue heavily braided hose from mack land!

Sorry I didn't notice the vmac mechanical thing at the end of the first post My bad! Anyway john deer and others use a version of this pump as has been mentioned and also mentioned is a plastic lineup tamb that scerws in to the the window where the timing event marker sensor goes ! That in my mind would be adequate to run this engine ! as it were when you first posted you were a tooth off in my opinion 24 static ! I have also had to do this job up a billygoat trail in the bush and had to eye ball this job with no timing light set up and have had good success doing it! as I explained in the first post! YA its nice to have all the tools how ever you got to do what you got to do some times! and these old engines are A LOT more forgiving than the new Mack branded Volvo engine! Just sayin!

Assuming the the engine is timed at 20 then if the spade or screw driver like wedge is dead center in the window the engine will be timed to 20 the timing should be stamped on the valve cover Depending on Hp and model year 20 aint far off FOR A MECHANICAL engine! If its A vmac engine the Static timeing should be at anywhere between 6 and 10 You need to clairify vmac or mechanical!

All Good For NOW!

Did you use new coolant!? hope so the pitting is likely caused by poor Coolant the additives are used up in the old coolant! You best to use premix 50/50 coolants as you don't know what is in the water your mixing with straight coolant! interesting read here! https://www.ttnews.com/articles/nitrite-free-coolants-rise-due-more-aluminum-engines

usually they do one then the other if the guy is not local we do both Barrels ! Check for updates then, parts canon! If its warrenty ya got to be carefull where you aim your cannon you could shoot your foot! 😅 anyway guys we kinda hyjacked this thread off topic! Better stick to subject! Sorry Don!😇

Usually I here the resolution ! Like I said they usually work thru the possible up steam causes first the DAM programing up grades/ egr flow fuel doser crap /def doser issues Crystal build up ect, often caused by cracked ash cans and air leaks within that sector To rule out the obvious and , Then Canon the nox sensors, only way to be sure, AND MACK DON"T TELL YOU F all How you've fix it if the last thing you do is parts canon! If it fixes it you can attribute it to overpriced Dollar store Parts! Really ,No different than what we've been talking about with this possible blow by ,oil slobber issue,! fred

In the case of these new emission units sometimes you have no choice Nox sensors is an example Cheap Shit ! Hit and miss ! If eveything up stream checks out then Throw the TAIWAN part At it No Choice! We have some guys here at my shop that have good senses ! ME NOT included in this Group ! But have seen what they do And when they do it Most of This shit is just Magic To me! DON"T like working on it!Hurts My Brain! 🙄

Yup so true if its burning it you won't see it due to the dpf!( IF )you can get the Turbo off with out breaking studs ! You may see a wet Cyl on the exhaust ports by removing the manifold!

We Call it parts Canoning At our place! And is A last resort if you have exhausted your other resources!

My opinion! We"ve Been told ! The fuel level is staying consistent? oil sample ? I have seen the turbos bad from the get go! Chase The facts Don't throw anymore parts till ya got some facts get an oil sample! If ya got the where with all Build some caps for the turbo and pressure it up with shop air ! two peices of flat 3/8 plate two pieces of 3/8 ready rod and some old mudflap and You can make the tool in under an hour! with this you can check Everything you need ! even Valve guides! remove the drain tube from the turbo put 40 regulated shop air psi to it This will test EVERY nook and cranny on the unit for leaks you may also have to cap the compressor outlet on the thing if its plumbed direct to the compressor! Just sayin!