fjh
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Everything posted by fjh
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2008 chu613 mp8 845c crank broke not once but
fjh replied to Truecountry's topic in Engine and Transmission
So here's something to think about ! WAS THE CLUTCH ADJUSTED properly on this second failure ? Lack of free pedal can take out the thrust bearing and cause a whole dogs breakfast of issues ! including what you have. I've Seen it happen! Just sayin! -
You want to be careful trying to pull too much from an E6 it can break the block at number 5 main bearing! there in lies why they went to the E7 block with buttress screws! A candle that burns twice as bright lasts half as long! Just sayin!
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Ya need to check for power at the head it may not be an electrical issue
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Pulled P/S pump to check gears and found chipped tooth that matched some of the fragments in pan This comment prompted my response! Vmac3 has posted good info could also be a cracked injector tip or injector not uncommon either!
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Which engine would be compatible with a 2006 CHN613
fjh replied to Dannielle's topic in Engine and Transmission
GOOD Point! -
Does it get power to the heads when operated?
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If this is an mp8 I would seriously check into the rear idler gear on this ! These have a track record for the idler gear coming loose! The cam will be the least of your problems if that is the case just sayin
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Going to be interesting to see just how much boost this engine will put out! Also how much frame alteration thatd going to have to be done to jam that in the vehicle!
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Also make Sure the air filter is clean Check the simple stuff first turbos arn't cheap these days! and you can open up a can of worms changing one with broken studs 7th injector bolts etc.!
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I believe that pump is the splined drive similar to the compressor drive ! except it is doweled and the pump can only go on one way! one spline is cut away to allow for the dowel to time the pump! ( NOTE if you haven't done this already !) While the pump is off Replace that coolant hose compressor to the water pump It is a PIA to do after the pump is on! Just sayin!
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Hard to tell ! But if you look close you will see two tiny bumps on the block casting at the outer edge for the robby bosch morph sequence it was defiantly on their minds at that point ! The idea was there even if the holes weren't drilled yet they were gearing up for it! as the the time came close to the change up they drilled the holes for the robby and corked them with the allen screws! till the morph came about! Even as far back as the 285 and 315 the robby was sometimes used! On The very odd occasion the robby was configured as a Maxidine pump !
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The blocks that had am ambac had the holes blanked off with Allen screws repaired lots of theses had to remove the pump and reseal the screws pia but that is what happens when you’re morphing to a different fuel system! Mack seemed to do a lot of this back in the day!
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The one at the front behind the blo by can is the quickest 3 inch i1/4 pipe-nipple and an elbow adapted to what ever gauge you have ! you need to take the top off the bloby can to install the nipple!
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If you have a Mack 18 speed in plug the switch on on the cylinder on the back torque limit switch may have failed and caused a de rate
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There was a tsb on this issue I think ! the front cover flexing or something like that if I remember right!
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Please!
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Replacing ceramic lifters with the steel lifters?
fjh replied to Joey Mack's topic in Engine and Transmission
That's shitty Bro ! but at least you found something! We just did a cam a month ago there were two e up pins sheared off and the the eup lobe was destroyed on number one ! at least you can see when the pins are broken the H rings are almost impossible to check! -
Yup ! You have to change the arm on the side of the trans !
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Bro ! Volvo construction version trucks have used this stuff for years here ,in Canada it seems to be ok! I've heard very few people bitch about it! Ive heard the springs can break with out warning how ever that's hear say and as with everything Volvo its Pricey to repair! our last garbage truck order from local district here had all M ride See how it goes 5 years from now! everything is built to throw away these days so the suspension will likely out last the emissions systems two fold!
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nope no tricks for that dilemma
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Replacing ceramic lifters with the steel lifters?
fjh replied to Joey Mack's topic in Engine and Transmission
Sorry never tried it so I don't know ! Jojo they caution about dropping those ceramic lifters as they break or crack real easy! Just Saying It don't take much! -
Valve cover gaskets are a pain on these ! When you put your new gaskets on clean the the gasket surface on the lid to a shine buy some edlbrock Gasket cinch/ contact cement . coat the valve cover and gasket once with the contact cement let it it go off then coat them again let it go off then stick the gasket on to the cover put the cover on the engine DRI don't use any sealer dri and clean only!
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Your on the right track Move in firing order to the next cyls! not unusual to have the odd tight one! Push down on the exhaust adjuster to get the oil out I usually break the jam nut loose turn the adjuster tight down then back it off one half turn then set with the 24 !this gets all the oil out of the slave and avoids a false set!
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yup if its a 4 valve there is two pointers valve set pointer and a timing pointer Be careful to use the correct pointer
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Yup ! That is the engine brake slave! 24thou!
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