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https://www.google.com/search?q=mack Plani drive axles&tbm=isch&tbs=rimg:CfLzBEQkRaqGYbxriZMENWf_1&rlz=1C1PRFI_enCA788CA798&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0CAIQrnZqFwoTCPD5qeP5hO0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAh&biw=1903&bih=937 This site shows some parts for the HD planetary hub used on CL350 http://www.westworldtruck.com/Catalog.page?CategoryID=28156&CurrentPage=1&ItemID=193957

Also if you see oil oozing from the stick tower or out the breather vent you may want to oring your shift lid!

Volvo knows how to gouge for sure!

Best advice is if your after a reliable truck 2003 or less ! As Trent stated new ain't necessarily Best! Second best thing to do if you are buying ANY Manufactures Unit these days is Buy New and get the THE BEST warranty coverage they have ! Be aware that warranty doesn't cover down Time! And make sure the driveway to your favorite dealer is paved and close by!😅 Newer units have a permanent gravitational pull to the repair depot kinda like a homing pigeon !👿

So here's the procedure ! First get the clutch bake set with the lever adjustments on the OUTSIDE of the trans ! Get the clutch brake set so it operates 1/2 inch before the pedal hits the floor! now go to the winder on the clutch housing wind the inner ring( clockwise to bring the bearing closer counter clock wise to widen the gap) till you achieve 9/16 - 1/2 space between the clutch brake And the throw out bearing ! When your done confirm the clutch brake is still operating! You should now have approx inch and one half free pedal at the pedal end ! Note the cruise liner had issues with the cable mount on the floor ,make sure the floor is not flexing when your stepping on the clutch!

Ive seen more than one of them hubs with one or more rear flares broke check em for cracks before you reassemble ! This happens quite often to 5 spoke hubs! not so much on 6 spoke!

second that ?

You could try getting a dealer to put the cal code in!also did you look at the cam follower?

Did you get this sorted out?

I would be tracing the main starter wire they could be rubbed thru in the bellhousing or starter as stated start by disconnecting stuff in order back to front !Start at he source and move forward!

Ground fault breaker there should be know power to that box whatsoever! it will only light a test light across it if it is blown!

The picture at the top shows the hub already removed ? This engine looks quite old what vintage is it? The shaft in my mind should brass drift out of there!

RS686 ?

how much system pressure do you have?

Remove 3 bolts and remove! Its either a tang drive or a splined drive ! Depending on its age! Either way the pump wil only go on one way both are doweled!

If its E7 the lash adjuster and pushrod could be compromised

E7 is the fuel pump engine ! e7 etech has separate fuel pumps per cyl!

Does it have a fuel pump on the right side or does it have separate unit pumps ?

Pour oil on what?

It was thoughtfully made that way so you would have to by it from a dealer.Volvo comes first when it comes to creating cash flow from your pocket! Not that any of the other makes out there would be any different!

No as long as your not changing cups just the injector is fine If your lucky enough to make it seal again your good!

https://www.marketbook.ca/listings/trucks/auction-results/list/manufacturer/mack/model-group/midliner

It is A CS Model Midliner conventional!

Don't forget star got folded into the freightliner brand long before the Swedish snapped up the mack logo! The Volvo cab is still coming I takes time to render things down to nothing!

This is a bummer ! If the 7th isn't getting good pressure it wouldn't make heat!