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If you are concerned clean and dri the bore , I have put a small amount of lock tight at the very bottom of the bore however I also would not be too concerned as stated 00,2 is still ok don't forget the liner will likely swell as the engine warms , It ran before it will run again! Just sayin!

There should be an air filter some where! if not its been removed! as for shifting how long you been driving this? These are a quite a bear to master! specialy spliting the 4 to 5 I know of only two or three guys that can split them up and down in the higher gears with out grinding and it takes lots of practice and experimenting with the engine brake! I have rode shot gun many times with guys diagnosing stuff !an only two or three could do it clean and they had a system with the engine brake swithch . I personally have never mastered it because I don't drive em for a living just wrench em! Having said that you can buy a oring kit and try rebuilding the shift lid That may help! as for the oil don't recall the litre 3 gal /12 litre rings a bell maybe . 85/ 90W Good luck with it!

Rad is under 16 psi pressure once the engine is shut down and there is no fuel pressure to counteract coolant pressure It can conceivably push back into the fuel rail coolant is sealed by an oring on the cup! Volvo Has had CUP issues for years and has yet found a GOOD fix! It is a tad unusual to have your condition however Very possible! and is where the most likely place to start is!

Nope not impossible at all! injector cup issues plague these engines with a host different symptoms! hard start ng being the main ,stalling and antifreeze consumption and fuel contamination ! So if your truck is not equipped with a fuel heater its likely a cup issue or a cracked head! Not at all strange!

Bro go to the red fuel filter and remove the line coming from the tank check the elbow into the filter is not plugged with shit These tend to collect crap

Thats all well and good as long as you can still work thats the key! UPTIME if you can suffer thru with a little less power until the turbo gets here then great turbos are not cheap to stock and depending on how many failures they have in their area it may not be worth it to have one on the shelf ilies why they order one! Again good luck just remember EVERYBODY else is having the same and or similar issues with this new stuff Mack and volvo don't have the market cornered when it comes to turbo failures!

Chances are they will have to file an e service The follow instruction from Big brother!!! And depending on big brothers experience , he may or may not roll the dice correctly Could possibly be a turbo issue won't throw a code for that. could be a stuck egr valve may or may not throw a code for that!There are several good guys at Eservice And there are a few ledgends in there own minds guys that may stone wall them Unfortunately, hopefully they get one of the good ones and minimize your down time! It all depends on who has the balls to throw the right part at it with info provided! chances are its a stuck turbo issue as it is a fairly common thing! Good luck to ya!

in my opinion if the shaft has no loss of motion twisting it it is fine!how ever it is the inspector you have to please not me!

So much for The MACK commitment to service and Uptime!

I have some advice There is a kit made to repair the valve once you have the valve repaired leave it in the on position don't touch it ever again and simply add a little coolant after you change the filter these valves were a good IDEA in theory however the orings cook to the metal and u end up where your at! Cummins has had this setup for years didnt work for them either! Just an opinion

Sorry ! please provide info year and model of the unit! sorta helps! Any codes? Its kinda like telling the dentist you have a tooth ache and not telling him which tooth !

Yup that will be the replacement for the MR once they have finished wrecking it and the LE!

I'm seeing more and more issues with that M ride spring suspension. Lots of bushing issues. Mack carriers exploding everywhere as well. I'm shocked. These Mack carriers are dropping like flies. Mack carriers exploding everywhere as well. I'm shocked. These Mack carriers are dropping like flies. So apparently this exploding issue was a Bolt manufactures fault A Single bolt that holds the gear to the spur shaft! threads were cut wrong or something??? AT least that was what I heard or read somewhere! I have repaired several of these put ( lock tight on the threads ) did that even when we used the good three bolt design! Still like that Three bolts design better ! If it ain't broke don't fix it!

Waste of a good truck putting a cummins under the hood ! Check the battery Grounds and connections at the starter, Check turn the key on See if the heater fan runs if it doesn't and it was working before the relay under the dash is likly faulty! also on the fire wall on the drivers side you may find a ground fault breaker aprox 2 inches round try jumping it across!

Try changing the VGT Filter!

Have someone put the foot on the clutch and hold it down , push the bolt in usually it is spring loaded to lock it ,Turn the bolt clockwize a turn at a time till you get it to engauge where you want it if the trans is equipped with a clutch brake adjust the linkage so the brake JUST contacts at the very bottom of the pedal( FIRST ) then proceed with the bolt adjustment ! There should be a half inch gap between the brake and the throw out bearing to be set correctly when your done! and will now have about 11/2 to tow inches of free slack at the top if the pedal!

Lucky dog!

Yup lucky you 700 bucks later and now likely an injector be there done that!

If the miss continues you will have to replace the injector ! this situation happens more often than you would think! some rust or dirt from removing the line has entered the injector and it has now jam it up! By the way your supposed replace all the injection lines for your repair to be mack conforming JUST SAYIN!

(Don't Laugh had this happen for a no engine brake complaint ) Not implying anything here However Aside from no oil in the pan. I vote freeze plug too! Point being check the simple first!

Do you put the wires on the plug the way they came off?is it possible you have them reversed ?

Unfortunately they hold all the cards what you want don’t matter.thats the way it is.And it’s been that way for years even before the sweds got there hands on it! It’s not all a Volvo thing.

Are the proper stats installed should be a 185 and 190 stat in there to eliminate the hammer of both stats opening at once! Just a thought

I doubt the screen is your rad issue you original post was coolant push was it not?

Bro is is it mp7 0r 8 the actuator sol is usually mounted on the oil cooler!