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Which should BE? Check the drain plug its quick and easy! Next hardest is the valve set Hardest CAN BE injector swap because they can be seazed! i have no Doubt in your ability Your working Blind with no history you dun good to get this far How ever Please try and advance thru the checks as stated so we can get to a resolve here I don't feel like wasting my time trying to help someone who doesnt want to listen and try shit we have offered up here There a some quite EXPERIENCED people on this site and we can get a little testy You asked for help we offer up the help use it to its potential we may be right we maybe wrong how ever its worth a try! getter done!

YOU ARE SPENDING TO Much time second guessing your self! In my humble opinion! Move on to other checks! Check the drain plug for peices check the valve adjustment Swap the injectors move on its likely not the timing! You got it running !!! As I recall it you have no history on this engine ! Your doing OK for a blind guy! Go with What you know you have smoke you know you got fuel up to the injectors swap em! You don't know if you have compression check the valve set !

Yup use the studs! I'm Not positive how ever I believe you can buy the dog bone bracket for the back now rather than the tapper much wiser than the taper ! I have seen these on the newer MRs used for pump trucks and such!

I think if the Freaken was to EPA stop and Evaluated HOW MUCH waste and pollution they have created by Forcing truck makers to create 5 year throw away trucks the cost to the environment having to recycle this crap far surpasses the emissions they are trying to prevent! But sure helps generate revenue for the truck shops! Be proud your keeping others working while going broke!

Yes Bud Do a valve adjustment on that cyl bring it up to tc( valves rockin on number one )and set the valves 16 on the intake and 24 on the exhuast or just loosen the big jam nut push and turn the lash adjuster all the way down till it wont turn with your thumb then back it out one half turn that will be close enough to ( aprox 24) to prove the point here! the proper set is 16 in 24 ex thou! There is also a possibility that you have a failed lifters in which case you will have a popping sound at the air cleaner and very loose valve set check the valve set first if you have a lot of slack on one of the valve like 1/32 of an inch STOP what your doing and check the pan plug for pieces! If the lifter has failed as you remove the drain plug it will feel like there is gravel on the threads!

As mackpaul is saying is it fueling to the injector? if so swap injector 5 to injector six if six starts firing you know you have an injector issue! however Being as you have smoke I suspect you have fuel but no compression! ( open or valve) or a stuck dyntard slave!

Bro if this engine were 180 0ut I highly would it would even try to run! If you have any action on those number six rockers your definitely on number one and it sounds like you got the timing spot on 22 or 18 doesn't matter, if its a timing issue and it didn't run clean at 22 and its supposed to be at 18 then! Are you sure you don' t have a rag or something in the intake because this is totally bisar!???? Turbo is Free? Just sounds like its not getting air to me! Just another thought! The Truck was not running when it came to you so it could be something stupid like that! Ive Seen air cleaners put in upside down before too, so more theres possibly shit to look for here maybe? Also Does it have an engine brake if the dynatard is stuck on the engine will run like shit and will smoke like hell!

No the EPA don't give a rats ass if somebody s house burns down or gets killed long as the dam thing is clean is all that maters

Stop lever run position throttle idle with the afor mentioned method check where the timing is currently set if it's at 18 advance to 22 if it's below 18 set it to 18 4 degrees should clean it up!

This here is real hard to explain How ever I will try!!!! Set it at 22 I've had this issue on a V8 ! use Glenns method ! WITH A TWIST : number one delivery valve and spring removed Delivery valve nut reinstalled ! connect a Number six fuel line to the inlet of the fuel pump inlet ! ( THE TWIST )once this is done blow into the line WITH YOUR Mouth Have someone start (with engine before TDC ) turn the engine while blowing on the tube when you feel the flow or blowing stop and you can,t blow thru( AIR STOPS COMING THRU number one injection line port ) thats time of injection! check the numbers on the damper that is what its timed for NOW! The gear hub is slotted on the front of the pump (set the engine ) on your desired degree 18 or 22 loosen the 4 pump slot bolts repeat the blow time method by turning the pump by the center nut till blowing stops (time of injection) tighten the slot bolts back the engine up to where you started Before TDC blowing again and turning it back to confirm it stop at the degree set one your happy with the set 18 or 22 re install the delivery VALVE AND SPRING put he line on number one hook the fuel supply up and light it up and see how it runs ! re install the cover once you confirm how it runs hope this helps!

Trent is Correct!

The torque limit switch would be mounted on the range cyl at the back the switch near the stick is the reverse switch!If you have a huge boost leak you would be trailing smoke all the time and if you have a pyrometer the temps would climb fast!

The dowel on the engine side is meant to go on the pumpside where the cut out is on the hub it will be in time or at least where it was when you took it off if your putting a diffrent pump on then YOU should time it! put the dowel faceing you so you can see it and put thr hub cutaway in the approximate same spot Approx 2 oclock i have found is the best location for install DO NOT pull it in with the bolts if it wont go in up to the bolt flange IT AN T IN RIGHT!

Ya it will be interesting to c how the hackers do with the newer stuff m drive and the like! Very complex and intertwined abs stability control avoidance control bla bla !

Yes MR model

Check the torque limit switch on the trans unplug it!

Guys just so you don't feel left out I have a customer that spent 35000 on a KW AT KW last year (Cummins) Finally got fed-up! Did the delete thing and has never looked Back ! However IF you get checked there could be hell to pay! He was of the mind that its a Dam shame A guy has to Choose between breaking the law And Going Broke and that seems to be the was things are going ! Either way a win win or a loose loose!

That sucks! Expensive VA K

Bud By what your describing throws up a red flag in my mind Either the clutch cable is stretching OR If it has several inches of free play and no clutch brake and it is engaging near the top then I think your shop of choice has be messing with external adjustment!!!!!and calling it A CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT ! ! NOT! Take the time to do what we have been saying here. and you may save yourself a thousand bucks or two changing out a clutch that is perfectly OK just ill adjusted! OR get them to do it with the instructions here! JUST SAYIN!

The only time this doesn't apply is with a unit with hydraulically operated clutch fork If you adjust the internal on these they will for the most part preposition automatically after a few pushes of the pedal !

There are many factors at work here ! However as usual it comes down to the MONEY ! Mack KW Volvo Freightliner Don't mater ! an in house part is a captive part BEND over boys you gona PAY! They will offer you a extreme Warranty but what they avoid telling you that the clutch and associated parts are wear item s and your on the hook for them Oh by the way any wear on the fly wheel is unacceptable it will have to be replaced! the clutch actuator is worn we will need to replace that as well and the price for those will be over 5000 across the counter pricing not including labor and re calibration and computer time . yup and your Right they have created yet more drivers that don't have a clue cause they don't need too have any skill ! Don.t need to know how to stop got ABS , don,t need to check brakes Got auto Slacks ,Don't need to know how to shift got auto trans! Steering is Next on the list and there working on it Boys! Won.t need to steer Got GPS for that ! Oh Wait Don't Have a job I.m not needed! Something else to think about!

This part of Kev's statement says it all ( You have to genuinely care about the customer) And The big V don't give a rats ass about the customer OR its Dealers! They are simply interested in the money they can suck out of both !

Thanx for following up alot easier than pulling the fork!

Quite honestly guys if you think about It really don't mater which order you do them the end result will be the same how ever linkage first you will avoid doing the internal one twice! The fact is the the linkage governs the clutch brake squeeze as stated by Glenn! Right now he just wants his clutch brake Back and Have offered several solutions!

( Usually ) It will have PTO stamped on the back of the case if it has the hollow shaft for the rear PTO!