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If you ever had long distances of backing up to do you mack 12sp would run circles around the fuller or Mack 18 sp and get twice the work done in a day! Its a shame they discontinued it ! Dispite its sometimes ornery last gear split it was a good trany for many vocational job Applications !

Another issue with the cylinder is there is a snap ring that can break inside the cylinder and cause this symptom you can do the oring job with out removing the lid from the back of the trans with the exception of the rail oring pay attention to the assembly as it is easy to get your head messed around to the way things are assembled!at least for me! :)Remove the four 3/8 by 4 bolts and remove things in order the end cap first the outside barrel being second then the outer piston theres two as you can see by Robs post!An inner and an outer! install the new orings on the pistons and if the snapring is broke replace it and reassemble!

Brain fart on my part sorry ! You are correct of course the will not work

AI use my thumb loosen the jam nut turn the adjuster in till it won’t move the with a screw driver or your thumb back it out one half turn then place your blade under the rocker turn the adjuster in till you got drag on the feeler then lock it with your 11/8 wrench and check the feel it can change as you tighten the jam nut! Adjust as nessary to get the right drag on the blade

Same set as an late 80s e 9 with a v fuel pump 16 inlet and 24 exhaust set in firing order

So what became of the RAPTOR version of these? Speaking of Hype!

Check pai good pricing! 57GC197A

Their are two one on the manifold end one at the compressor!

Check the little hose at the compressor inlet and under the inlet manifold! those often burst! its a one inch steel line that runs behind the engine

The idea here is to expand the aluminum from around the nut yuo are replacing the valve

Cheap cheap cheap thru out the industry it seems very sad!wonder what would happen if say autocar or someone started building a good quality unit say ten grand more would people buy?Or is price the selling point here!

Ahhh! another step backward for a reason thou ! Well that"s a breath of fresh air! I thought they were being illogical for no good reason! But there is a reason for being illogical ! Thankfully We haven't had the displeasure of working on the ( new power assist ) option yet ! Were still working patching up the other issues that haven"t been addressed 😡! Rear Engine mounts have become an issue as of late ! Thankfully we have the odd bull gear failing still , on the older trucks so the mounts can be addressed at that point🙄!Planed obsolescence! have said it before , Its a shame these Volvo people bought a company that had some well established people and ideas that worked ! And they never ran with any of it! Having said that the front bumper on the new Anthem s we've been selling here have a bumper 1/4 that can be removed for better access for service and repair !😁 Its horrible to work on. With an inch or two of clearance. No changes needed to be made to the Volvo to fit that God awful design hanging off of the D13/MP8. Well they made it easier to get at the EGR valve at least What more to ask for! 🙄

That special button was likly an overlook me software probably not legal but a get out of jail free card for now to give them time to figure out what to do! 🙄

you can also try Any type of penetrating oil again and air hammer on each nut location! You will need to replace the valve of coarse IF you can get it free! Had luck with this Technic on a Peter built last month! Assembled with neverseaze on the threads !

Unfortunately going to be a can of worms once you start! If you have an impact hammer try massaging the valve at each flare but location and apply a little heat!

Yup and the key to it is do the cheap and easy and most likely stuff first as always! Most of this stuff now has a track record not necessarily spelled out in order of Reliability! 😡

So Guys next time you get a chance to get up close and personal to a new anthem chassis check out the NEW AND IMPROVED ? front cab mounts and post your thoughts !Observe the logic if there was any? To its design ! Does A bolt running for and aft for a cab that is air suspended at the rear Make sense to any of you??? Was there anything wrong with the old mount that it had to be redesigned??? Just askin!

Good Find RED!

The post Hancock left is the way to go time wise for a dump or mixer application by far!

I some how remember something about the fuel pump wiring is a tad different How ever im in the same boat as you ! not sure !! The engine will run off memory with one sensor unpluged ! Same as the new engines takes longer to start!

Check for any brake lights out trailer connected ?????

Just my observation ! I Have Always wondered about why the Pete guys could never design a clutch pedal that didn't look like a piece of antiquated Farm equipment! Up till the Cab redesign as of late! How ever Its Always been A REAL MANS truck for what ever reason! Kinda like the Harley Of Trucks! 🙄 Nether of which I am fond of!😎

You can also get a screw driver in thru the cover on the bottom and pluck the disks free from the flywheel and the intermediate plates by having someone hold their foot on the pedal or have a stick hold the clutch pedal down turn the the engine by hand and pluck at each paddle location!I have had to do this ! Where a unit has sat in a wet location for to long !

I would suspect if you've had the yoke come loose several times that its about time to do syncro plates as Rob mentioned ! Having said that Have you checked the the oil yet If the truck is equipped with a trans cooler coolant can get into and contaminate trans oil and cause the same issue!

Check for a loose or broken yoke bolt