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Agree somewhat! However the point that was mentioned earlier. how many eteck e7 or e six con rods have you seen come a part due to torquing to 150 only? However with the heads on these engines covering such a large area I can ,see the value in the torque turn method for this ! rocker shafts and the like not so much! We had very few issues back in the day with rocker shafts coming loose or breaking bolts till the redesign of the the head to use a 3/8 size equivalent bolt from a 7/16 size, All of a sudden we have bolts breaking coming loose pedestal shuffle ect .many of the issues we have these days in my mind is directly related to the under sizing of fasteners or the lack of presents (Not enough) of proper fasteners! another example being the new diff design Changed from three 1/2 inch bolts on the spur shaft to one 3/4 inch bolt that comes loose I've seen this happen more times than I'd like ! Just some examples! Just an opinion

Good to see you Pro. and good info ! so did they have anything bad to say finishing out the angle turn by impact? This here kind of makes sense ! How ever.....

Kind of have the same thinking .and it does take some of the grunt work out of it as well on the higher torque sets has its place I suppose! however as mentioned the Same bolt size same job and you change the proceeder for it ? Worked before!

Certain bolts used on the MP inierds rockers / injectors bla bla bla they recommend marking and are only to be used several times! Snap on sells a tecky digital torque wrench for this, pricey but if you doing lots of this kind of work worth having! I believe the Idea behind this is the tighter the bolt gets the more lost due to friction could impact the (eveness for lack of a better word) of the bolt tightness. we could likley add this number in however its more techy and MAYBE More reliable bolt tightness! And if they reasonable they stick to even numbers 90 degees, 120 degrees ect it can be done with an impact wrench!

They simply spiral in! no hammering or beating no reaming The only hammering involved is getting the old stuff out!

Yup cuts the time in half and they work well! I like some of the stemco stuff BUT not all ! won't install or recommend a stemco 2 piece seal any more unless I am forced into it , how ever the voyager stuff is decent !

I'm sure there would be some valid excuse why they do the things they do We are just out of the loop on it🙄 ! Its not for us to wonder why , just blindly do what the stupid instructions say! Its the same with the injector cup issue and the ever changing instructions to install them to try and make them last thru the warranty period! 😫

Its the Volvo way complicate the simple. This final torque will likly end up at 180 like all other mack flywheels in the past ITS a dam 5/8 bolt .However It seems they need to Tech shit to death! Torque to yield everything!🙄

Check into these quick and easy to use and decently reliable! http://stemco.com/product/qwikkit

If it is a Garbage truck Start by looking for Rat chewed wiring! Also check your ecu plugs for oil or coolant contamination !

Thanks for chiming in!

Yup agree with Tech Get on the powwow There are occasions where the shift lid is at fault the shift fork pinch bolt has loosened off how ever I would do as Teck has stated for now if possible!

Chevy has the ticket here I say what do you have to loose here! just put it on ! Worse youll have to do is get the learnt data reset at the dealer! The issue is with this stuff is the memory takes on bad habits from the faulty part (stuck vanes ) in this case you may not have that condition just a bad controller maybe. Worth trying in my mind! Be sure the rack lever is not binding and is all the way forward when you install the new controller and your good to go!

I believe this is one of those situations you need to do a learned data reset! I could be wrong however!!!!

Let us know how it goes kind of an interesting issue if it don’t solve you problem maybe check the compression wrong pistons can lower your intended ratio!

We were handed wrong pistons once same symptoms

Do you know if the econovance is even working? Does the sound change when the oil pressure starts!???

Could go either way there were very few mechanical 400 that’s right where the electrical era started both were excellent engines

Mechanical. E7 or electric either way a good unit for on the farm or elsewhere if the price is right!

What year?

Another easy check I recommend is the tank vent just crack the fuel fill loose for a while and see if the problem goes away if it does the vent is pluged!

Just splitting hairs here ! The pressure would not be complete with out the injector its all in the package ! it sets the pressure and and the spray as stated ! Just get it done! If you need to run the truck THEN just pull em clean em and put em back in with new orings ! Chances are injectors will need to benched to change tips ! Also stated. exchange will likley be next to impossible to find (happy hunting ) This will shut you down for a week while you wait for them! if you don't need the truck by all means send em out get new tips put on!or wait to find some exchange ones!

Thanks for posting your fix!

So have you run a valve set on the unit ? Does it have blow by? You could have bad compression on thous to cyls !If u swapped the pumps out and the problem stayed with the cyl then it sounds like a physical problem to me! Can you post All your symtoms ! Color of the smoke boost preasure and pyrometer readings( under load) This might help nail it down! the engine should make 30-35 psi boost and pyro should stay under 1000 deg and the re should be little to no black smoke while pulling!

We have had injector cup issues cause this! Have you had issues starting it??