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Big Dog
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About br549

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  1. If it's the old push mack style clutch you adjust the free travel with the outside linkage. They had a spacer that was bolted in between the pressure plate and the flywheel that if it was slipping and had free travel you could take out and it would put more pressure on the clutch disc. Some time it would work and sometime not. Are you slipping or just need to adjust free travel.
  2. This truck is a CL 713 The upper are the one on the Hood and goes from front and straight back, the lower attach to the splash fenders and go down.
  3. This is what fits a 1997 CL upper RH 16QM515M 25165425 upper LH 16QM516m 25165426 extension fender lower RH 16QM517M 25165459 lower LH 16qm518m 25165450 Old mack # and new world #
  4. Does it pull back into the top tank after you turn the truck off and it cools down. If it don't top tank rad cap might not be sealing up good and letting it push out in bottom tank. put new lid on it make sure it is the right one with a double seal and leave the bottom tank empty. top tank when heating up expands into bottom tank, if rad cap seals good and hose to bottom tank is good it will suck it back in after cutting it off. Mack factory rep told us 20 years ago the we should leave the bottom tank empty that it not big enough for the expansion of the water when it heats up and expands into bottom tank.
  5. That is a 1-1 ratio used to clear the supply pump if I remember correct. You don't need if you can get your tach cable to go in straight. The part # is 119AX5247, not sure if it goes to a volvo world #. Last time I check years ago it was the price of a couple Disney tickets. Our's worked with it.
  6. Any body know the torque for flywheel bolts on 2016 MP8 engine, I've misplaced my engine manual?
  7. google gunite, it will take you to accuride and go to KIC hub assy and put in your cup numbers in your old hub and you can see if it will convert. Post your VIN or model and last six of VIN if nothing has been changed and I will see what I can find.
  8. There is also a pipe plug in behind the timming cover at the right front top where the return galley is located that leaks into the oil pan.
  9. Pull vavle covers and check the big pipe plugs on top of the heads. You can see signs of crusted antifreeze around them if they are leaking. If they are pull and put pipe thread sealer around or rubber silicone and re install. I would also check oil cooler too. We have seen it leak around the big o ring on the end, we had one that would not show under pressure, put it back on and pulled the oil pan and showed no leaks, finally we replaced the oil cooler and it cured it. Happy hunting.
  10. The problem with the fuel lines in my opinion were cheap junk. Look at the lines on earlier e tech engines that never gave problems, then they have a high heat engine under the hood with the egr system and put a tonka toy injector line on it. Later they beef the line back up and solved the problem. I had one truck down in Alabama that had a fuel leak on and they put a fuel line on it and it still leak so they pull the injector and put o-ring on it and it still leak. They replaced the injector and that fixed it, I paid for 3 injector lines because they would not reuse it. That is BS.
  11. We had a 2005 with the AC 427 engine, only 1 turbo around 800,000 miles replaced. Just changed it when exhaust manifold gaskets starting leaking, don't like to run things till they blow up. Sold truck at 1,200,000. We always used the factory rebuilt turbos thru mack and never had problems. The turbo auctuator valve on the left side would leak air and was replaced a couple of times. We did have some wiring connectors problems. The one at the charge air pipe gave problems till we cut the wires and solder them straight and tie them down good, when the fan would kick in it would blow wires around a lot. I would buy a new AC engine over a MP8 any day, to many injector cups on mp8 engine plus all the emission junk. That truck was more reliable then MP98 we had.
  12. You should check your flywheel depth to make sure it has not been surfaced to much, I can't remember the depth it's in a bulletin. When they surface the flywheel we have seen them come back and leave a ledge against where the pressure plate bolts in and the clutch will not bolt down flat. there is a service bulletin about this. The same machine shop has been turning our flywheel for 30 years but we got one back 2 weeks ago and notice it was not machine all the way out and called them and said they had a new man doing it now. We sent it back to fix it. It only about 1/16 ledge but the pressure plate will not bolt down flat. You should be able to check this in the truck just turn the engine where you can see the pressure plate mounting bolts and make sure it is flat to mating surface. In the past when we have a vibration in the engine sitting still we remove belt and see if it disappears. We had one years ago you could look at the pressure plate with the engine at high rpm and see it wobbling, Have seen where the bearing race have been left out on the main shaft on the mack transmissions inside the input shaft. Have also seen the bushing missing on input shaft on eaton transmission.
  13. Pull the turbo hose off at the turbo and install a plug, you can buy them or make one with 2 spuds one for air gauge and one for air pressure and pressure the whole system, air cooler, manifold gaskets and air compressor tube and get the system up to 25 or 30lbs and see if you hear it. I had one that was making a noise only under boost and it was where we had pull the hose off of the charge cooler and the cooler had a rough seam in it and it leak and made noise. We buffed the seam back smooth and it took care of it, that way you should eliminate the boost pressure system. you should be able to see signs of the exhaust manifold leaking exhaust, as one said on mp engine we have spray water around exhaust while idling but the water don't seem to work good on E7 engine. To me if it appears and disappears with 25lbs and quits when letting off you will probably fine a small leak on pressure side of the system.
  14. I would try a remack water pump thru mack ordered by the by the truck vin with the pulley already installed. Make sure it has the same type of air fan it came with when it was made I remember some used a real thin spacer between the pulley and air fan, but it might have been a kysor air fan. Give the vin to mack dealer a see how it came from factory.
  15. Is this a E-Tech engine or E-7? Are you using the old pulley on the water pump? If so try a remack w/pump with the pulley already on it. If they are out a few thousand they will break the bolts out at high rpm. This is on an E-Tech engine
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