theakerstwo

Lock the power divider.

That is the tool I have and a year or so it cost 518.00 dollars but do not try to install the seal with out the installer.Unless you just love pulling the trans out again.Ever one has tryd to install the seal with out it and its not worth trying.

I worked trucks for 39 years and have used a real engine stand.Its nice but a steel table and about three wood blocks is all you need.You do not need to turn the engine no more than on its side to check brg or install a crank.When you do a overhaul out of the frame you can start with the heads off and then turn it on its down side up and then lay on side after crank is laided then piston and liners ending up up right with heads and acc last.

A steel table about three ft high and 3ft by 5ft.You don't need a stand.

They sure look alike don't they.

In okla we have to have ten feet between the steer axle and the first drop axle to be legal.How much can you gross with that now?

The last four years I have used china tires because on a dump truck one year is all we get.

With out looking it up I will say around 12 degrees would be fine

I remember when it was the only way no matter how big the fleet as

That would be normal and I should have told you to put some vise grips on the line so you could watch the return from the return fitting in the head.You will get a little fuel from it.But if much it means the injector line to injector joint is leaking.Vapor means compression.

I though all of them did.I just put a bread pan under mine.If you tear it down you can install installation tape around the pan and help.

Try when it is hot pulling the plastic fuel return off of its fitting at the front head while running.Look for compression or vapors with return fuel.If you have any vapors it will be compression leaking by the bottom of the injectors and you will need to pull injctors and ream out th carbon in the head then reseal the injectors.

And turn the vent hole up

Check out seat specislists website. I try to copy and paste but cant get it to paste.

I would start to look for a internal air leak.

Sounds like the idle shut down is killing it but ith out reading the ecm your only guessing hat it is.

I have a new one some were if you don't find one.

If you do weld it don't lets some guy that is almost a welder get on it and burn it up.

Tulsa Mack Dealer is were I got my first job.In about 6 months that would 50 years ago.

Check Ebay

I had a set of alummin hub pilot wheels bores out to stud pilot.The shop that did it will not do them for any one he don't know.

Also with a heat problem that has had most of the major parts checked or replaced and still heats the water pump pressure needs checked.You may have a new pump on it and with out rereading to check a water pump the water pump pressure should be checked before replacing it thinking its bad.To do so use a 50 psi gauge and connct into the coolant system anywere before or below the thermostat.With full engine speed the pressure should be around 18psi and I am guessing with out looking in the manual.I know on one of my engines it was about that.If its lower than that look for a belt slipping due to bad pulleys or belt or a bad pump.The engine does not have to be cold or hot and the thermostat be closed or open changes things very little.The rad cap can be on or off also.

The before you install the wheel try the nut on the shaft.If it will not go on then get a thread file and work on it before crossthreading the nut.

I installed my condenser on top of my camper which was a refrigerator box that we made a hunting wagon out of.If I can remember tormorrow I will take photo of how I did my pulley.I and thinking it was a B model engine pulley but I have a 315 engine in it with a after cooler mounted in front of the grille.The pulley I used was a two sheeve but I took another one like it and cut one groove off of it and used brass and welded it to the rear of the first pulley.Back in the med sixtys I worked for mack here and I remember installing the roof mount on B models cause they were still in production when I started working.We had to install a roof reinforceing kit in the roof to hold them.The drive belt pulled off of the crank pulley and thru a idler that was mounted to the six bolt timing cover up front.It was a poor drive system.

A 94 year truck would ve a Vmac 1 or maybe VMAC 2 but the turbo speed code would be for a later engine like a ETEC