theakerstwo

What he said cause if you don't know were the rear crank seal is I think there may be some more things you may find in the manual you don't know.

That would be a good truck to transplant a mechanical E7 in.

He ant asking for much maybe two days of typing is all.

Your going to get a lot of it could be answers but truth about it who knows until they do some checking.

What mack man just said.I to haul asphalt and found its hard to know who is telling who what to do sometimes cause most of the crew is having fun out there in the hot sun and most of them are talking out loud.Another thing to remember is never raise you bed or trailer with out looking up above you and also slow down and lower your bed before you take off down the road.Then lock your tailgate.I lock mine 20 times before I get back to the plant.

Fuel pump may have a frozen rack or some tapets may be stuck.

Just bolts and nuts

Then you have nothen to worry about.When you have a leak just look for the leak till you find it.Repair it and you may have found were you are losing the prime.

I was working at freightliner when they were installed in freightliner and Kw that I know of.A few was sold around here in freightliners but many of them broke the crank.Many was repower with cummins.Freightliner could do support work on them but problem with was dealers did not want to gear up for training and the network that was required and the tractor equipment dealer could not get the trucks into their shop and probably did not have the training also.I remember a memo coming out for the early engine from freightliner factory stating not to be laying under the oil pan when you take the last bolt out holding it up.Some of the pans were made of cast iron.Some said that they would weigh about 400 lbs so that could mash your stuff if it fell.

Test don't guess

I would set it to 22 and no more than 24 degree and that would be spill timing.Some of the hot rod guys is going to tell you to advance more but just remember your dealing with alummin pistons.

Get some one to pull oil pan and pressure the coolant system to maybe 15 psi and let set till it starts to drip.No one knows until this is done.Also when pan is off heck the brg cause they will be bad.

What joe said.

Anymore you may hear anything.Turn the radio off.

alumitank.com check it out.

For finding feron leaks I put maybe 150 psi of nitronen in it and use a soap and water but propane leak detector works best.That is what the kids blow bubbles with.

One way to find out which clutch you have is call the mack dealer with the vin # and if you have done that and will be trying to find a cheaper deal then just pull it out and then take it in to the parts store.Som clutchs are more than your quote.

I remember the first maxidnes and some of them did not have a muffler but did have cast into the exhaust side of the turbo words saying muffling device.I guess this was legal until they started the sound test on the road.

Macks the LDA valve has nothen to do with the park brakes.We are into two different system now.

The E7 has a LDA valve which some call it a aeroid valve.It has to have a line connected to it to the intake manifold to see boost or it will never fuel 100 %.

B61 fred the puff limiter does not give the pump any more rack with out air to it than if it was not conncted.But with it disconnected it will give the pump full rack even when the boost is not up.Meaning it will have more response and smoke but when the boost builds it will not have anymore HP than the pump is set for.But you can get in to tenth gear quicker but will not pull a hill any faster.I work with several macks ever day and mine is the only one that does not smoke but the guys that have them smoking think they are running better.The puff liniter is only holding your foot off of the gas pedal until your boost starts to build and then the pufflimiter lets you smash it some more.If some one gained HP by taking the air off of the puff limiter there was a problem with the system not adjusted right or air problem.To me most guys can find more things to worry about than making some smoke and getting in a gear quicker.

I think you need to take it back to who overhauled the engine.You keep driving it will not help on the warranty and can damage the engine.

The 225 HP was a ENDT673B it was a thermodyne

Get on a creeper and go under it.You will find the rear mounts will be on the trans so the trans can stay in the frame

Check Junkman Dan out on the just old trucks fourm for a DD engine.