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Anne Bocchini Kirsch

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  1. I'm trying to put a rebuilt carrier in a Mack - since they're sideways it looked like it'd be easier, but this is strange. I've only dealt with Dana and Rockwells before, so never ever one of these sideways ones, and I put it in the case, but when I line up the bolt holes there is a gap between the carrier and the housing and it feels like the ring gear is contacting the bottom of the housing. It's a CRD 93 rebuilt by the same rebuilder that did it last time, so I'm doubting that they made a mistake with the parts. I know with some of the other rears you have to rotate the yoke a little bit to seat the carrier and then close the gap by putting in the bolts and tightening them, but this is literally vertically dropping down, so I'm guessing that's not it. I know it can't be right for the gear to run on the housing or it would tear it open and the place I work won't get the service manuals so I can look these kinds of questions up, so I always have to ask them online and hope for an answer. Am I missing some little step or something to line this in?
  2. Yeah, this is a 99. The issue wasn't so much corrosion, but the fact that fuel got in the oil and by the time the driver stopped he'd heard a noise from the motor and lost power. Not counting the several gallons on the ground, I measured an excess 7 gallons I removed from the motor itself. I think it just over pressured and blew it out, but it's leaking oil now basically right at the flywheel housing where it meets the block at the EUP line and the broken roller, which Mack said you do the cam and lifters to fix. Tearing out the front - no problem at all, but getting at the rear to get the new rear seal in is becoming quite a pain. I've got the lifter holder tool coming, so it shouldn't be a problem putting the cam back in if I can just get this one cup and seal.
  3. If anyone has a diagram or anything, it would be helpful too - engine exploded or camshaft removal, anything like that. This has that EUP system found only on Mack and Mercedes. Thanks.
  4. Thanks - that's what I'd heard for the cam seal and the cup there - how do you get that without removing the trans, though? This picture looks about right, cause my computer keeps taking pics too dark under my truck, but it looks like it's sandwiched between the motor and the trans without anywhere it splits to remove it without taking the others down. I got my PTOs off to make sure they weren't interfering, but there doesn't seem to be a split up under the PTO mounts either. http://www.ebay.com/itm/MACK-ALUMINUM-FLYWHEEL-HOUSING-634GC5337M-E7-ENGINE-/391105089034
  5. In diaging fuel loss into the oil I took the pan down and found a smashed up roller in the bottom of it. Got the front of the engine apart and the oil pan, trying now to access the rear seal. which was leaking early on in this issue. I'm thinking the whole trans has to slide back, but someone said there might be access thru a cover. I don't see it. This does have an Eaton trans, and all I've got are the 2 pto mounts not even close to the cam, and 2 inspection covers, neither of them on the right side of the flywheel to help. Am I missing something on this flywheel cover before I pull a whole trans that I didn't need to pull or were they just wrong?
  6. Not being a Mack person I am not familiar with this EUP system, and the most I've really done is replace a line or a pump on it - very easy. This isn't such an easy repair. The driver says he heard a little boom and then it started leaking oil with fuel. The fuel seems to be coming from the top near the seal under the jake and the oil is the worst. It is coming out like a very low pressure pulse from where the engine meets the transmission right below where the pumps fit into the motor. It's probably around where the cups ride on the crankshaft and then extends downward from there. The truck is also running poorly, very low acceleration, although it does drive all right. I figured I'd post it because it sounds like something that might be obvious to someone with a background in these EUP systems - either Mercedes or Mack. Unfortunately my background is pretty much International/Cat/Cummins and I'm picking up Mack now but not to the point of rebuilding an EUP. I've only dealt with conventional injection pumps. Anyone know what's right there that could cause this oil leak? If it were any other kind of truck I'd think it was a rear main seal, but this just doesn't seem like that.
  7. Exhaust manifolds? Wow. I'd never heard of using it on exhaust actually until today, someone mentioned using the 750 degree copper stuff for exhaust manifolds when I was searching for the difference between silicone types, but I'm surprised to hear it works. I've always used muffler weld type stuff for stubborn exhaust issues that nothing else seems to take care of, but it does get brittle so it only lasts for a year or so. I'll have to try it. I'd never seen Mack grey before, just the white, black and red. I'm guessing the grey is like the high-torque grey permatex. I thought permatex made everything, but I've never ever seen white until I found an old tube of Mack white last year on our parts shelf (I used it for an axle gasket and it worked) and then the old white on my timing cover. Permatex doesn't make a white and so far as I can tell Mack is the only company that does which led me to wonder what exactly is it (on a Sunday, of course).
  8. I am putting on a timing cover and it was sealed with white silicone, which I have only seen in Mack tubes. I have a tube of black and a tube of red but no white. I think the dealer sent the black when I asked about the timing cover but I can't remember. I know they didn't send white. Anyone know what the difference is? Does it even matter?
  9. Sometimes when I try to access this site from search results it redirects me to Adult Friend Finder. I checked into this since I was concerned about having a virus myself, but based on my research and the fact that it only happens with this website it is something that infects the site, not the individual user. You may want to check this out as the photos it loads are pretty offensive to some people and certainly not appropriate for underage users.
  10. Since it's almost impossible to find the specs for everything. I usually test that I have resistance and that that resistance changes fairly incrementally as I move the lever manually. Not a perfect test, but generally when it fails it's not moving perfectly in a different range, it's open or not changing at all at least at some point.
  11. I agree - get a test light, start at one end and work your way toward the other. Since you say that neither light works, that would be switch to split or split to switch. Checking wiring by eye can be really tough since a lot of it is wrapped. Sometimes you get lucky and the burn is obvious, sometimes it's a tiny nick under a bunch of split loom, but if you have power both to and from your high beam switch, it's got to be something between there and where the power divides to go to each light.
  12. Are the switches wired in such a way that they activate some of the same lights? I'm assuming that what you're experiencing is a trip on an auto-reset breaker on the headlight circuit. Give it a few minutes to cool down and it will auto-reset and that's why your HL switch starts working again. What I'd look for is either places where the circuits overlap or run together and see if you have a short. Sometimes you just have to trace the wires. What's striking me is that alone either circuit functions but together they cause an issue, which is making me think there has to be somewhere that a wire is worn through and you're getting some interaction that shouldn't be there. As was said before, you're looking for burned, blackened or de-insulated wires where you can see the copper. Sometimes a piece of harness gets pinched during other work (recently I saw something where someone had tightened a bracket and caught a wire while doing it which ended up burning a bunch of wires behind the dash) or up front where the wires run to the headlights and markers where you have the hood hinge, that's a really common place to see issues.
  13. I had the bolts attaching the front engine mount to block shear - all of them. I am trying to drill them all out and use lock n stitch kits to put them back together. I could access the right side just fine by going through the gap in the front after removing the harmonic balancer but the left side is directly blocked by the lower portion of the radiator where it has the stilt like mount attached. I understand that this is a built in part of the radiator, so I can't just support the radiator with blocks and remove the mount, so I have to pull everything I guess? I don't know if I can just disconnect everything and pull the whole radiator/intercooler/AC condenser as one assembly or do I have to pull them on at a time for some reason. I think it might be better to pull the fan shroud separately just so that it doesn't hang up. I did a search on just about any combination of these parts in a more normal job (intercooler replacement, radiator replacement, etc) and found absolutely nothing anywhere. Anyone removed this before and know the easiest way to go about it?
  14. This truck has been a pain. No start, the engine fuse box was corroded and had to be replaced and relocated. Then it kept losing prime, had weepy fuel lines. Now it cuts off when hot. I pulled the ECM connectors and there is corrosion build up under the clip around 2 rows of pins toward the corner of the ECM closest to the engine and radiator (so right rear if you're standing on the passenger side wheel looking at the ECM. I should say its an E7 - 350 with PCM 12MS514M. What I can't find is a pin diagram to know if this would be sufficient to make it cut out. Also I can't see through the case to know how extensive any internal damage to the ECM may be. The visible damage is both to connector and ECM itself. Anyone have a diagram or heard of this before or have any way to test it - I'd hate to replace an ECM that I could just clean up the connections on, but if this is the problem better to do it and get it over with than keep chasing my tail looking for something else. Thanks.
  15. I'm doing the maintenance now. The prior people, I can't speak for why they didn't take care of it. I can understand not knowing what something is because there are so few Macks around here that most of us don't know much about them and you barely even see them on the road, but at a certain point PM time should roll around and you go to order an oil filter and get a kit and match it up and figure it out, or you just try and figure out what it is because you should know, right? Apparently they had just been doing the fuel filters, so I ordered everything. Recommended they call the dealer to make sure they get the right ones at least the first time so I can get some part numbers to work from for aftermarket crossover. I'm an International, Cat and Cummins person when it comes to motors, Eaton when it comes to trans, Dana or Rockwell for rears and so on...normal trucks, if you will, and normally I only handle 96 & newer. I can fully rebuild any of the aforementioned parts. I have no Mack experience whatsoever. None. Not even an oil change. I started in light duty and when I went to medium/heavy in 2005 I worked for a company that had 70% International, 10% Freightliner, 5% KW and 5% Petes. Went to a company with 60% Western Star and 20% each Pete and International. Went to another company and there are 2 Macks - the first I've ever seen. It's like starting over. Mack doesn't put out service manuals, they don't put out wiring diagrams. I have literally hundreds, maybe thousands, of documents - service manuals, TSBs, wiring diagrams, etc that I've collected over the years because I save everything, but all for everything but Mack. It's literaly like starting over from the beginning in some ways because they're just so different. These things even have split rims - I was like, really? Everywhere I'd worked before had long since gotten rid of them by 05 beacuse they're dangerous, but here they have the 2 Macks and 2 Ford mediums that are eligible for historic tags that have them, so again, never dealt with them before (though at least I knew what they were).
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